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Driver side loose seat base
So I read the threads on here about the issue of the seat. The closest thread to my issue was the one whereby the driver seat base has a lot of play in it. Which mine does.
Kenchen listed a part number for the fix, however I am unsure what the part is and how to go about fixing this issue. Can someone please chime in and advise, as I'd rather fix this issue myself even though I am under warranty. thanks. |
Have you tried tightening the bolts? A drop of Locktite (or equiv) might be helpful. I suggest the non-hardening kind.
Why not let the dealer handle it? A loose seat can be very dangerous in a crash and not something to work on if you are not sure of your abilities. If you can't figure it out by looking at it and checking the drawings in the FSM, maybe you don't need to be working on it. |
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Take it to the dealer. Even if you are able to do the job, it's still going to be a royal PITA to work in those cramped conditions. Save yourself some frustration and discomfort.
If it were out of warranty and you were Poorbastard, it might be worth doing yourself. But it's free, so help a mechanic feed his family. ;) |
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Ask other Nissan owners you know where they have their car serviced and if the dealer does good work. Pick one with a good reputation and cross your fingers. You may get lucky and the mechanic can do the work without removing the seat. Then all you have to worry about is belt buckle scratches on the door sill. ;) |
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I think there is a FL "group" (topic/thread) or two in the South East Region - Nissan 370Z Forum forum. I'd try there and see if anybody has experience with dealers in your area.
Edit: Ask among friends/acquaintances and pick the dealer with the fewest complaints. |
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I'm having mine replaced as we speak.
The electric seat base is $3000~. Take that bitch to a dealer Have a GTR tech work on it. Best of luck. It's a car, things will get scuffed. Want to scuff it yourself? Take the door card off and all the plastics out. Then take it in. Then THEY can't scuff it, but I bet you will. I've taken my seats out a few times and the first time I made a tiny gash in the door card. But to me, the thing is a pile of metal, plastic, glass and leather. So I don't give a fück |
Its manual. So your base wobbles also ?
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I imaging the manual one is cheaper, but I bet it's still rape prices because that's a safety issue |
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Can you do me a favor and list what was done after you get your paperwork back please? |
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I might be able to pull the one for my Maxima, it had 3 replacements, and my new Maxima will need one too. |
You really won't need anything though. Show the dealer that it jiggles. Done deal. My dealer ordered parts as soon as I sent the video... Sucks that the part was back ordered and it's been in for a week, and the part will arrive next week from Japan
Don't replace it yourself. Not worth the risk. Safety and liability wise |
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Holy cow, thats unreal! Thanks for posting them, appreciate it. |
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no issue since then. i have spare star nuts in my parts bin for future if needed. :p 87182-1EA1A (2pc needed) make sure to painter's tape part of the center console and e-brake handle so you dont accidentally scuff them during the rework. |
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If so, where are these star screws located and if so would be nice to have some pictures coz I can give it a try. |
that shaky vid wasn't much help, but mine did not shift all that much. i would need to plant my arse on the seat and twitch my arse left/right to get it to make the knock noise.
i only heard it when i made quick turns. it was annoying enough that i was considering getting some aftermarket seats. but after 15min, no more issue. :p let me see if i can find the tsb... |
http://www.the370z.com/370z-technica...at-corner.html
it's not just noise, it actually shifted left/right to make the noise. |
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i just laid my seat on its side inside the car to do one side at a time. yah, it's just wasn't pounded in tight enough at least on mine. TSB calls out wat looks to be the exact same star nut, so i didnt feel like changing it out.
been a few years since i did this. the knocking noise nor sliding ever came back. |
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anyway, just bang that sucker in tighter using your impact socket (dont use regular sockets as the plating will crack off on your socket). |
I'm having a hard time visualizing this procedure but it may help if you place something heavy and hard (eg, small sledge hammer head) behind what you are hitting (so the parts are between the "backup" and whatever you are hammering with). More of the energy will go into driving the part deeper instead of pushing it out of the way.
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yah, the rod might be part of the seat base. not sure. but i didnt have to hold anything and just smacked the star nut in deeper by maybe 0.5mm each side.
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Necro thread. I believe the star washer fix is not like what DEpoint and myself have. The star washer fix I believe is for left right play. The movement I have is up down movement of the seat base. Exactly like the video posted.
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Hey, I screwed up and never got you the paperwork... I should be going soon for an oil change... I'll keep you posted when I do
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Took mine to the dealer twice and they swear they couldn't duplicate the wobble. So annoying.
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I just tried something out on the seat base. I moved the first rotary dial so that the seat base would incline to its max setting, the base hardly moves now, but if I rotate it so that the front of the seat base is at the lowest or low setting then the front part moves up and down. Arrghhh. Definately nothing to do with the star washers.
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I'm having the same issue. I only feel a rattle or knock when I make a quick turn or shift. Other than that I don't ever feel it. It really doesn't bother me but I just hope it doesn't get any worse.
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I'm having the same issue. I only feel a rattle or knock when I make a quick turn or shift. Other than that I don't ever feel it. It really doesn't bother me but I just hope it doesn't get any worse.
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Although, if I adjust the seatbase forgot if its up or down, then it doesnt do this . I just lived with it, hasnt gotten any worse during the last 10 000 miles or so. |
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