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transmission assembly replaced???

Originally Posted by Mitco39 They lower so that the top of the window does not hit the frame of the car when you close the door. Has nothing to do

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Old 06-04-2013, 09:43 AM   #46 (permalink)
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They lower so that the top of the window does not hit the frame of the car when you close the door. Has nothing to do with the interior volume.
no, several cars have windows like this. when you have a small interior volume there is alot of pressure built up when you shut the door. this causes the seals around the door to fail in time, and it puts stress on the glass. by closing the door with the window cracked it puts less stress on the seals and glass.

our windows dont hit any part of the frame window fully up or not. they do however slide up into the rubber seal just a tiny amount.

Last edited by fuct; 06-04-2013 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:34 AM   #47 (permalink)
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no, several cars have windows like this. when you have a small interior volume there is alot of pressure built up when you shut the door. this causes the seals around the door to fail in time, and it puts stress on the glass. by closing the door with the window cracked it puts less stress on the seals and glass.

our windows dont hit any part of the frame window fully up or not. they do however slide up into the rubber seal just a tiny amount.
I beg to differ. I have accidentally closed my doors with the battery disconnected and the window contacts the body of the car. You can hear it when you close the door, and I cringe every time I forget about it. It is also done to keep the window from rubbing on the seal when you open and close the door.

The pressure differential would not be enough especially with how we have fresh air coming into our cars. Pull off the plastic around the battery and you will see a large inlet. There is no way enough pressure would build up in the car to cause damage to that seal when you have that air duct venting to ATM.

If that's the case I would be worried about running my sub in the car with the windows up, as that thing surely pushes just as much if not more air in a "sealed" cab.

If you can find me a example of a small car with a frame all around the window that still has the window open a crack when you open and close the door ill have to believe you, but I dont believe that is the case. If it was your ears would pop everytime you closed the door.


This is all my opinion, as I really have no facts other than my window hitting the car to back it up.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:31 PM   #48 (permalink)
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I beg to differ. I have accidentally closed my doors with the battery disconnected and the window contacts the body of the car. You can hear it when you close the door, and I cringe every time I forget about it. It is also done to keep the window from rubbing on the seal when you open and close the door.

The pressure differential would not be enough especially with how we have fresh air coming into our cars. Pull off the plastic around the battery and you will see a large inlet. There is no way enough pressure would build up in the car to cause damage to that seal when you have that air duct venting to ATM.

If that's the case I would be worried about running my sub in the car with the windows up, as that thing surely pushes just as much if not more air in a "sealed" cab.

If you can find me a example of a small car with a frame all around the window that still has the window open a crack when you open and close the door ill have to believe you, but I dont believe that is the case. If it was your ears would pop everytime you closed the door.


This is all my opinion, as I really have no facts other than my window hitting the car to back it up.


i cant say ive done that so you could be right. i had looked into this years ago with my buddies 330i. everything i read refered to the interior pressure causing failures.

hmmm, im not always right so ill just take your word on this one.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:18 PM   #49 (permalink)
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So after much testing I think I figured out the issue. The dealer says its normal but I know its not.

I don't think its a problem with the new transmission, it seems to be a problem with the alignment of the shifter and the new transmission, but I don't know how to describe it correctly to the service manager at the dealer.

On my old transmission, when pushing the shifter all the way to the right and then up, I would get 5th gear, and when pushing all the way to the right and then down I would get 6th gear.

With the new transmission, when pushing the shifter all the way to the right and then up it won’t go in, and same with pushing to the right and then down, won’t go in.

To get 5th gear I need to push about half way to the right and then up (so not all the way to the right), if I guess just right it shifts smooth, no issue.
And same with 6th, if I go about halfway as far as I used to, and then down I get 6th gear no problem.

My question is, is this normal? Shouldn't it be all the way to the right and then up or down? With 1st and 2nd, its all the way to the left, you don't have to guess or hunt to find it so to speak?

I don’t think it’s normal that I have to push it just the right amount of force to find the right spot, it should be all the way to the right and then up and down, like my old transmission was.

If you have manual transmission can you let me know how your 5th and 6th shifts?

How can I prove that this is not as it should be?

Duane
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:24 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Your shifter is off. 5 and 6 are over all the way right and then up/down on my car.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:33 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Sounds like the guide plate needs to be moved to the left a little. Should be a fairly simple job since it can be done topside, just need to lift the shifter boot and trim panel.

The installation procedure for the guide plate is described in TM-22,23. Basically stick the transmission in 5th and 6th and make sure the guide plate is resting against the shift leaver.

Print those 2 pages and bring it to the dealer, and ask why they didn't do that.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:35 PM   #52 (permalink)
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It almost sounds like the plate that locks out reverse is not set correctly.







DIY: TWM Short Shifter and Leather Shifter Boot
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:35 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Arggh Chris beat me to it. lol.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:40 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Arggh Chris beat me to it. lol.
Yes but you have pictures and that is worth 2000 words in this case!
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:25 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
Sounds like the guide plate needs to be moved to the left a little. Should be a fairly simple job since it can be done topside, just need to lift the shifter boot and trim panel.

The installation procedure for the guide plate is described in TM-22,23. Basically stick the transmission in 5th and 6th and make sure the guide plate is resting against the shift leaver.

Print those 2 pages and bring it to the dealer, and ask why they didn't do that.


Hi what does TM-22,23 stand for? Can you give me a link to that so I can print it?

Thanks,
Duane
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:31 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Hi what does TM-22,23 stand for? Can you give me a link to that so I can print it?

Thanks,
Duane
TM stands for Transaxle and Transmission, which is the section of the service manual where this information is located. Here is a link where you can find the FSM for download http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-o...rvice-manuals/
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:05 PM   #57 (permalink)
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So I printed the pages and took it back to the dealer, they called me today to tell me they made the adjustments and its ready for pickup. They claimed that they had done this already the 1st time, but obviously it wasn't done.

When I got there the service dept was closed so I couldn't talk to them, but when I drove it, I noticed that 5th still doesn't slide in smooth, 6th is now fine, there is no difference in 6th compared to 1 to 4th

There is a noticeable difference when shifting into 5th that its different then the other gears, it does not slide in when pushing to the right you still have to come back to the left a little to get it in.

Also I now see on my shifter there is a nick or chip on the plastic collar, looks like from a wrench or some kind of tool that they used to take it apart, and the leather boot the top is all loose between the top of the leather and the plastic ring, like they didn't put it back together property.

Am I being unreasonable?
What should I do?

Should I drive 1 hour to another dealer and start all over again? Or go back again to local dealer?

I don't think its wrong for me to have it repaired correctly the 1st time. If I take it back again it will be the 5th time in the past month!

Duane
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:10 PM   #58 (permalink)
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I'd go back and sit down with the gm of the dealership. You've been patient enough. I'd call Nissan corporate as well.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:15 PM   #59 (permalink)
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I'd go back and sit down with the gm of the dealership. You've been patient enough. I'd call Nissan corporate as well.
Problem is the GM is already involved, as the service manager was away when all this was happening, he is the one who drove it last Sunday and told me its fine (this was when 5th and 6th were not shifting correctly to the right)

I don't think I will get much from him.

Also they gas was full when I dropped it off last Sunday and when I got it back it is just over half a tank now.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:25 PM   #60 (permalink)
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It's time to talk to corporate. That dealer has had their chance.
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