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*Voluntary Service Campaign ** Steering Lock Fix**

Originally Posted by kenchan Sounds like another win for the dumbarse canned message team.. Actually consumer affairs wasn't willing to cover anything at all. I finally resorted to blasting them

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Old 01-30-2015, 11:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
Sounds like another win for the dumbarse canned message team..
Actually consumer affairs wasn't willing to cover anything at all. I finally resorted to blasting them on Twitter which got the executive specialist with the office of the vp to call me back.

She's the one who "did me a favor" by covering 1/2 of my repair after taking about a week to get an answer for me. I'm pretty sure they were trying to wait me out while my car sat at the dealership fixed to see if I'd just pay for it during that time frame. Luckily I have the ability to work from home.

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Old 12-31-2015, 02:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a 2011 model, and my Steering Lock module failed 3 days ago at the worst timing possible (11:30pm in a public parking, first day of freezing temp in Dallas, with rain and wind, and I had a flight to catch the next morning at 9am).

I had the exact same symptoms. The car wouldn't start (not even the electrics) and I got the key light/indicator on the dashboard. I managed to tow it to the dealership (after I towed it to my place first, since it failed on a Sunday night), and they confirmed it was the steering lock failure. They refused to repair it for free, as expected, and the repair set me back $1340. On top of that, the dealership gave me the shortest warranty possible for the new module: 12 months. Really? 1 year of warranty for a module that is bound to fail again in the future? F*k off!

I'm really disappointed that this seems to be the exact same failure as the previous models (09 and 10) and the later models aren't included in the extended 6 years warranty. Really disappointed by both my dealership (they know this is a known manufacturing fault, they should have offered the minimum repair cost possible to their customer) and Nissan.

I intend to call Nissan and ask for some/all of the repair money to be reimbursed. If that doesn't happen, I'll probably sell the car within 2016 and never buy a Nissan again.
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Old 01-08-2016, 01:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I have a 2011 NISMO with 38k miles. Luckily, mine failed in the garage.

That's besides the point, because mine had the latest 48700-JF00D part revision. This proves Nissan's fix is worthless.

I called the closest dealer which happens to be Courtesy Nissan. The SA I spoke with was well aware of the problem but said "the 2011 year model and your VIN" are not part of the voluntary service campaign. She quoted me almost $1,500 for the repair.

So I resorted to using the well documented methods of fixing it myself. In the end, I had to buy a new SLU 48700-JF00D from Courtesy at the cost of right at $700. I changed out the part myself and no surprises here, the car fired right up.

I called Nissan Consumer Affairs and opened a case. The agent said the same thing as the dealer, the same old story of your car used a different supplier so you are not included in the campaign. After some arguing she gave me a case number and said a regional person would call me.

I doubt anything will happen but this is my first and last Nissan. What a poor excuse of how to fix a SAFETY issue.

On a side note, there won't be any good will reimbursement for me. I don't trust the dealers near me and perform all my maintenance myself.
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Old 01-08-2016, 01:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wind.zero View Post
I have a 2011 NISMO with 38k miles. Luckily, mine failed in the garage.

That's besides the point, because mine had the latest 48700-JF00D part revision. This proves Nissan's fix is worthless.

I called the closest dealer which happens to be Courtesy Nissan. The SA I spoke with was well aware of the problem but said "the 2011 year model and your VIN" are not part of the voluntary service campaign. She quoted me almost $1,500 for the repair.

So I resorted to using the well documented methods of fixing it myself. In the end, I had to buy a new SLU 48700-JF00D from Courtesy at the cost of right at $700. I changed out the part myself and no surprises here, the car fired right up.

I called Nissan Consumer Affairs and opened a case. The agent said the same thing as the dealer, the same old story of your car used a different supplier so you are not included in the campaign. After some arguing she gave me a case number and said a regional person would call me.

I doubt anything will happen but this is my first and last Nissan. What a poor excuse of how to fix a SAFETY issue.
First, go pull the fuse if you haven't already. Then, if I were you, remove the new unit, return the new one, and get your money back. I don't think you need to have one installed. Or maybe you do and you need to install the old broken one. Regardless, if you pull the fuse correctly, the car should work just fine without the new unit
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Old 01-08-2016, 01:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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First, go pull the fuse if you haven't already. Then, if I were you, remove the new unit, return the new one, and get your money back. I don't think you need to have one installed. Or maybe you do and you need to install the old broken one. Regardless, if you pull the fuse correctly, the car should work just fine without the new unit
I pulled the fuse right after the car started. So yeah, I had to spend the cash for the part and then bypass the part. Yeah me ....

The parts department was very specific, "are you sure this is the part you need and you can't return it because it's an electrical component."

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Old 01-08-2016, 01:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Unfortunately I had a flight to catch the following morning, so I didn't have the time (or clarity) to go through all the information online. Otherwise I'd probably have done the same, either get the car running and pull the fuse or buy an ESCL unit and replace it myself.

Anyway, after opening a case with Nissan Consumer Afairs, they called me back and offered a $500 reimbursment. I insisted in getting the full amount reimbursed ($1330), but they refused.
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Old 01-08-2016, 02:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I pulled the fuse right after the car started. So yeah, I had to spend the cash for the part and then bypass the part. Yeah me ....

The parts department was very specific, "are you sure this is the part you need and you can't return it because it's an electrical component."
Fuckin' bastards

Maybe give 'em the old Discount Tire treatment

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS7z3Ud2DZY
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