Loud ticking noise from engine

MightyBobo · 02-27-2012, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triple's

Good to hear they're doing the right thing

Fixed. AND YOU CALL YOURSELF A MOD!

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk

Trips · 02-27-2012, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MightyBobo

Fixed. AND YOU CALL YOURSELF A MOD!

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk

Synack · 02-27-2012, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speedy

Interesting thread. Since I just got my Z so I'll definitely keep my eye on the oil level. Anyone got a link to the TSB? If it was posted sorry I missed it.

I haven't had mine long enough to do the first oil change, but I do all my own work. I'm OCD so I keep all my receipts from oil changes as well as a maintenance log book in the car (helps with resale).

I see a lot of misconceptions in this thread as well revolving around warranty. Dealerships CAN NOT void your warranty for doing the work yourself unless they can prove you caused the problem. There are laws against this. The only way a dealer could have such a policy is if they provide free oil changes to their customers.

It's the same reason they can't force you to use their oil or filter.

To the OP, it wasn't the Mobil1 that was the issue. If you burned 5qts in 5,000 miles there was something major wrong going on.

Maybe these cars need a 5W40 or 10W40 weight oil.

Oh I definitely agree with the different weight oil. Hell we used 5W-30 in my Cobalt and that's a completely different car.

Speedy · 02-27-2012, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synack

Oh I definitely agree with the different weight oil. Hell we used 5W-30 in my Cobalt and that's a completely different car.

Well, my point was that manufacturers spec an oil, in part, to help with their EPA mileage requirements. You can find this as fact by looking at an oil spec for some cars in the USA vs. Europe. Same car, same engine, and completely different oil specs.

The 5W30 for the Z may be a result of an EPA mileage requirement when in actuality a 5W40 or 10W40 would actually work better for the motor.

I have no information to support that theory as of yet, just throwing it out there.

Synack · 02-27-2012, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speedy

Well, my point was that manufacturers spec an oil, in part, to help with their EPA mileage requirements. You can find this as fact by looking at an oil spec for some cars in the USA vs. Europe. Same car, same engine, and completely different oil specs.

The 5W30 for the Z may be a result of an EPA mileage requirement when in actuality a 5W40 or 10W40 would actually work better for the motor.

I have no information to support that theory as of yet, just throwing it out there.

This is true for other Nissan's as well. I've seen tons of people put thicker oils in 240's.

Jordo! · 02-27-2012, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

(And I wouldn't worry about the Dyno numbers. Factory freak-ness is never more than ~1%, the rest is just different dynos and different atmospheric conditions, or factors other than the engine (e.g. gearing, wheel size/weight, etc)).

The factory freak is a myth -- here's the kernel of truth (at least to the best of my knowledge): Older GM cars occasionally had a different cam put in on the assembly line when designated cams were short on supply, and because so many parts were interchangeable. If the different cam happened to have a wilder profile, you lucked out with a more powerful engine.

BigT · 02-27-2012, 05:36 PM

Oil weight varies quite a bit, especially on the internal tolerances of the rotating assembly. All modern engines found in new cars are built with tight tolerances so as to help with longevity and reliability. I don't see a need to add thicker engine oil to a car that is only 3 years old unless it has very high miles and or the motor has been rebuilt.

Trips · 02-27-2012, 05:39 PM

Lets not turn this into another Oil thread.

Stick to the topic, And if this can't be done? I'll just Close it.

Thanks

Synack · 02-27-2012, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

The factory freak is a myth -- here's the kernel of truth (at least to the best of my knowledge): Older GM cars occasionally had a different cam put in on the assembly line when designated cams were short on supply, and because so many parts were interchangeable. If the different cam happened to have a wilder profile, you lucked out with a more powerful engine.

Well this makes sense as to how I was introduced into factory freaks, first new car was a GM. I had a Chevy Cobalt SS for 5 years and we saw some that would come 185whp from the factory and some up to 235whp, the Supercharged version (2005-2007). Nobody saw any factory freaks out of the turbocharged version (2008-2010).

wstar · 02-27-2012, 05:54 PM

Yeah my reference to the ~1% or less factor is that there probably are factory variances in tolerances and adjustments. It's just not enough to matter enough to care about.

Jordo! · 02-27-2012, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Yeah my reference to the ~1% or less factor is that there probably are factory variances in tolerances and adjustments. It's just not enough to matter enough to care about.

Yep. And tolerances have gotten way tighter over the last 30 or so years.

I do bet you will see variance due to break-in success or failure -- that probably accounts for anywhere from 1% to 3% (poor ring sealing, lost compression) to 100% (blown motor!

)

Anyway, OP, glad to hear you are getting a new short block and no BS from Nissan

Synack · 02-27-2012, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

Yep. And tolerances have gotten way tighter over the last 30 or so years.

I do bet you will see variance due to break-in success or failure -- that probably accounts for anywhere from 1% to 3% (poor ring sealing, lost compression) to 100% (blown motor!

)

Anyway, OP, glad to hear you are getting a new short block and no BS from Nissan

Thanks, gonna baby it through break-in. Possibly unlike the previous owner...

didymus · 02-27-2012, 06:37 PM

Sounds like you got a good dealership. Well assuming they don't screw the work up!

Zemurray · 02-27-2012, 08:50 PM

Really glad they are taking care of you. That's great news.

MJB · 02-27-2012, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synack

Thanks, gonna baby it through break-in. Possibly unlike the previous owner...

Thats good to hear!

02-27-2012, 05:39 PM	#158 (permalink)
Trips Administrator Join Date: May 2009 Location: Disneyland, Ca Posts: 8,730 Drives: 🔰 Rep Power: 10	Lets not turn this into another Oil thread. Stick to the topic, And if this can't be done? I'll just Close it. Thanks __________________

02-27-2012, 05:54 PM	#160 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Yeah my reference to the ~1% or less factor is that there probably are factory variances in tolerances and adjustments. It's just not enough to matter enough to care about. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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02-27-2012, 05:36 PM	#157 (permalink)
BigT Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: NJ Posts: 469 Drives: 98 2g DSM Rep Power: 13	Oil weight varies quite a bit, especially on the internal tolerances of the rotating assembly. All modern engines found in new cars are built with tight tolerances so as to help with longevity and reliability. I don't see a need to add thicker engine oil to a car that is only 3 years old unless it has very high miles and or the motor has been rebuilt.

02-27-2012, 06:37 PM	#163 (permalink)
didymus Track Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Providence / Boston Posts: 564 Drives: 280 / 370Z Rep Power: 306	Sounds like you got a good dealership. Well assuming they don't screw the work up!

02-27-2012, 08:50 PM	#164 (permalink)
Zemurray Base Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: La Grange, KY Posts: 117 Drives: 78 280z, 40th 370z Rep Power: 14	Really glad they are taking care of you. That's great news.