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370Z Battery Life Expectancy

i think i may need a new battery soon. mine is still factory from 2009 so 6-7 years and 40k miles. still works fine but its getting up there i

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Old 02-23-2015, 02:09 PM   #151 (permalink)
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i think i may need a new battery soon. mine is still factory from 2009 so 6-7 years and 40k miles. still works fine but its getting up there i guess.
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Old 02-26-2015, 05:50 PM   #152 (permalink)
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check your water level when charge is full FP.

you can go much longer then dat. my G is running its factory battery from 2004.
and obviously my 09 is running stock battery.
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Old 02-27-2015, 06:23 PM   #153 (permalink)
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I just replaced my battery after a couple of struggle starts and two no starts. 4yrs 6mos 59K miles. I'm in a '10 Nismo, so those of you with convertibles and power seats might expect less.
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:41 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Not necessarily. The longevity of the batteries also depend on how well they were maintained. Batteries with low charge all the time will deteriorate much sooner than the ones near full charge all the time.

Battery fluid level also makes a difference. However, I have replaced a 4 yrs old battery and the fluid level was within the range.

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I just replaced my battery after a couple of struggle starts and two no starts. 4yrs 6mos 59K miles. I'm in a '10 Nismo, so those of you with convertibles and power seats might expect less.
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:58 AM   #155 (permalink)
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so i'm now at 48k miles and still on oem battery from 2009.

I think it's age is showing now that morning temps have dropped here to 45-60 when I leave for work. struggled a bit the past few days. but once it's started battery seems to be full charge no issues. wonder if it's lost its cranking power or maybe my starter is weak? hmmm.

think i'm buying a optima yellow top to have for when my battery does puke.
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:02 PM   #156 (permalink)
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so i'm now at 48k miles and still on oem battery from 2009.

I think it's age is showing now that morning temps have dropped here to 45-60 when I leave for work. struggled a bit the past few days. but once it's started battery seems to be full charge no issues. wonder if it's lost its cranking power or maybe my starter is weak? hmmm.

think i'm buying a optima yellow top to have for when my battery does puke.
If it's acting weak at 45-60 F, it's going to be down-right anemic when you get down to 10 F or below. After 5 years, you've got all the good out of it. Replace it before it leaves you stranded in sub-freezing weather.

The starter may be the problem, but a five year old battery is the primary suspect, IMNSHO.
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:05 PM   #157 (permalink)
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If it's acting weak at 45-60 F, it's going to be down-right anemic when you get down to 10 F or below. After 5 years, you've got all the good out of it. Replace it before it leaves you stranded in sub-freezing weather.

The starter may be the problem, but a five year old battery is the primary suspect, IMNSHO.
I don't drive it in winter. only got a few more weeks if that with the Z until it goes into hibernation mode. hence why i'm half tempted to just wait it out and replace in spring.

but for now it just seems the initial crank is the issue. it trips up for a second then once it passes that it goes fine. figure the battery was probably made in 2008 and then placed in the car it's now 7 years old lol
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:24 PM   #158 (permalink)
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I don't drive it in winter. only got a few more weeks if that with the Z until it goes into hibernation mode. hence why i'm half tempted to just wait it out and replace in spring.

but for now it just seems the initial crank is the issue. it trips up for a second then once it passes that it goes fine. figure the battery was probably made in 2008 and then placed in the car it's now 7 years old lol
Plates are probably "sulfated" and the battery won't put out as much current as it used to. Cranking the engine requires a lot of current; maintaining the electronic modules doesn't require much. Probably good enough to keep the ECM, et al, going if you crank it every now and then and run long enough to re-charge the battery.

A battery tender would be a good idea.
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:26 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Plates are probably "sulfated" and the battery won't put out as much current as it used to. Cranking the engine requires a lot of current; maintaining the electronic modules doesn't require much. Probably good enough to keep the ECM, et al, going if you crank it every now and then and run long enough to re-charge the battery.

A battery tender would be a good idea.
yea not gonna lie there have been winters I only started it and let it run 2-3 times with no tender on it.....
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:36 PM   #160 (permalink)
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yea not gonna lie there have been winters I only started it and let it run 2-3 times with no tender on it.....
A new battery can often get by without a tender. Not so much one that is on it's last leg.

If it were me, I'd get a tender (so RAM doesn't get erased if the battery fails) and wait until Spring to get a new battery.

Of course, the ECM will recover from a total power loss and resetting the windows is very easy, so keeping it on a tender is not a big deal if you are going to replace the battery anyway. I'd definitely put the new battery on a tender next year, especially if you don't start and warm up frequently.
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Old 10-09-2015, 08:40 PM   #161 (permalink)
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any time i dont drive the car for more than a few days i plug them in. my G will go 12yrs on stock battery next year. no issue. i dont plan on replacing the battery any time soon.
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:01 PM   #162 (permalink)
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Still running the OEM battery on my Dec 2008 built 09 base with sport package, 60,000 miles. Been having weak starts that barely turned over so now's pretty much the time for a new one.
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:27 PM   #163 (permalink)
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I bought my 2009 370z used in 2014 so it was on its 2nd Nissan battery according to records. then I just bought a new Nissan battery in Oct 2016. I crank the car almost every day so it must be the subwoofer and stereo draining it.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:19 PM   #164 (permalink)
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I bought my 2011 in May 2011. It's been a daily driver the past three years. I have 58K miles and still on original battery. It reads 12.8V on the cars meter, with car on but not running. I think it is getting close to end.
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:51 PM   #165 (permalink)
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I bought my 2011 in May 2011. It's been a daily driver the past three years. I have 58K miles and still on original battery. It reads 12.8V on the cars meter, with car on but not running. I think it is getting close to end.
12.60 is fully charged,
I swapped mine last January;due to it being 5yrs. old & needed one for lawnmower.
I did notice it cranking the engine a tad slower & when i put that Red-Top Optima in,,,,no comparison.
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