OIL CHANGE: 1 summarized thread for newbies

[dudafunk]

I've searched a bunch of times trying to find out when to get oil changes and what oils to use. There are varying opinions about the miles and types of oils, and additional components (magnets for example?) that some people have been using. This has left a newbie like me confused, and I would keep pushing my research to a later date each time just because of so much information available - but most of it looks like intended for more technical/track driver usage.

I want to know, for very basic non-track daily driver usage, what are the intervals? When should be the first change? I have put in 3000 miles so far. When should subsequent changes be done at? (It used to be 3 months / 3000 miles on my older Buick).

Also, I am not too keen on taking it to the dealership because I have a guy right across my office where I can leave it off and probably watch him work on it too. I want to supply him with the components needed.

SO.... after going through all those threads, is there a general summarized list of things needed for a generic oil change? Just the basics - I know there's no end to the extras, quality etc.. I don't track the car etc... just a normal average driver looking to do whatever it takes to keep things normal, you know?...

[vipor]

Conventional Oil: 3000 mile intervals

Synthetic Oil: 7500 miles intervals (typically)

Use whichever filter you'd like.

Go to the dealership and buy some Oil Drain Plug Crush Washers. They're cheap, copper, and the guy just gave me the ones I have.

Nothing special. Same as every other car. Some (myself included) choose to do more, but it's not necessary.

[j.arnaldo]

On the filter bit, I'm spreading the word on Pureone by Purolator. Some engineer tested every brand on the market and, surprise!, Pureone kicked derriere in quality of materials used to manufacture it, with the added advantage that it's NOT expensive! So, there you have it laid out in black and white, dude.

[Vegasboricua]

Originally Posted by j.arnaldo

On the filter bit, I'm spreading the word on Pureone by Purolator. Some engineer tested every brand on the market and, surprise!, Pureone kicked derriere in quality of materials used to manufacture it, with the added advantage that it's NOT expensive! So, there you have it laid out in black and white, dude.

Do you have a link to this research?

[Crazy8]

Originally Posted by vipor

Conventional Oil: 3000 mile intervals

Synthetic Oil: 7500 miles intervals (typically)

Use whichever filter you'd like.

Go to the dealership and buy some Oil Drain Plug Crush Washers. They're cheap, copper, and the guy just gave me the ones I have.

Nothing special. Same as every other car. Some (myself included) choose to do more, but it's not necessary.

What are oil drain plug crush washers?

[dudafunk]

Are there any brand names to choose from between conventional vs synthetic?
Any links to the rest of the smaller items needed?

Also, I kept reading there's some extra labor involved in opening up some covering on the hood to reach the area where you do the oil change - my guy across my office hasn't worked on 370's before I'd think, but I don't want to embarrass him either, is this something extra hard, should I get him some instructions or is it trivial enough for an established mechanic to figure out on the fly?

[kannibul]

Originally Posted by vipor

Conventional Oil: 3000 mile intervals

Synthetic Oil: 7500 miles intervals (typically)

Use whichever filter you'd like.

Go to the dealership and buy some Oil Drain Plug Crush Washers. They're cheap, copper, and the guy just gave me the ones I have.

Nothing special. Same as every other car. Some (myself included) choose to do more, but it's not necessary.

Change according to the manual, regardless of oil. If you want to run it longer than that, use a place like Blackstone Labs and get confirmation.

[kannibul]

Originally Posted by Crazy8

What are oil drain plug crush washers?

Washers that are hollow inside, so when you tighten them up, they squish, making for a better seal than the bolt=oil pan interface would make normally.

I reused the one on our Civic at least 4 or 5 times, before I had a problem, and mostly that was due to me messing with the washer and distorting it.

I replaced it, and no leak. On our Civic, a leak is a BIG problem, as it's only a 3qt system. A 5qt system will at least give you a couple days notice.


With the Z having it's undercarriage cover, it's even worse, because it can conceal an issue. I made the mistake of not recognizing the crush washer on the Z's oil plug, so I thought it was omitted, I put one on (aluminum type, my motorcycle has a common size!), and cinched it down. I'll fix that come November when it's time for an oil change / storage.

[vipor]

Originally Posted by Crazy8

What are oil drain plug crush washers?

You can see them in this pic. The copper things

[tjlazer]

Don't waste your time with the washers. I have never used them in the 20 years of doing my own oil changes....

[tjlazer]

Originally Posted by dudafunk

Are there any brand names to choose from between conventional vs synthetic?
Any links to the rest of the smaller items needed?

Nissan recommends ester based oil. I hear Redline synthetic is ester based. Not sure of what other brands? As long as you use the proper oil at 3,000 miles you are fine. I just put in Penzoil 5W30 in mine at 2,500 miles. Going with Redline next oil change!

Also, I kept reading there's some extra labor involved in opening up some covering on the hood to reach the area where you do the oil change - my guy across my office hasn't worked on 370's before I'd think, but I don't want to embarrass him either, is this something extra hard, should I get him some instructions or is it trivial enough for an established mechanic to figure out on the fly?

There is an under engine splash shield that some say you have to remove to do the oil change. Its like 15+ bolts. Nonsense. There are 4 bolts toward the rear of the car and the shield has a FLAP that you move down to get access to the oil filer and drain plug. Just have him remove the FOUR bolts towards the rear and he will figure it out just fine...

See this post:
DIY: Nissan 370Z Oil change (AK370Z way) Pictures inside


NOTE: On the first oil change, the filter is on really tight. Some have mangled it trying to remove it. It's a PITA. Your mechanic won't have a problem though.

[JoeZ]

Funny thing I just left Midway Nissan here in PHX AZ and they tried to talk me out of using Ester oil. They said that it was all a big hype. I told them thats nice, now put the Ester in and thanks.

[Zeester]

Originally Posted by tjlazer

Don't waste your time with the washers. I have never used them in the 20 years of doing my own oil changes....

Is it safe to do this ? Im always afraid that the seal wont be good enough and that oil will leak out under cornering.

[Billarf]

Consider replacing your stock drain plug with a Fumoto valve..the best.... if you want to attach a hose to the Fumoto do order a Fumoto that has a nipple on it for hose attachment. (not all Fumoto's have a nipple) Futmoto's part# will have an "N" in it indicating "nipple" if it has a nipple.

For the '09 - '10 370Z use the F103N Fumoto valve.








Best place to buy price wise is from an eBAY vendor. They do not leak and are very well made. A terrific adjunct. 8-) I've used them on numerous vehicles over the last few years.

[barto]

Can anyone confirm that the N type allows enough clearance under the z? The site says not to use the Ntype on a low car.