Help with the clutch
 

Last night I bleed and replaced the clutch fluid using a high temp dot 4 brake fluid. After bleeding it 3 times, I topped off the fluid and that was that. After a few hours I turned the car on and put the clutch in and I could feel pressure and vibration coming from the clutch itself. To top it off, there was an ugly growling noise.

I kept pushing on the clutch to see if it was just the new fluid going into the system but it kept growling. Finally after making dinner, I went back out and tried it again and the growling and vibration had gone away.

The car idles fine. There is no fluid on the ground that I can see.

This morning, I turned the car on and again encountered the growling and vibration in the peddle but it was a mixture of good operation and bad. I have never had this happen before.

Something happened to the system after I bleed and replaced the fluid.

My research is leading me to believe that it has something to do with the throwout bearing but how could I have damaged it by just draining and swapping the fluid?

Has anyone had any experience with this? The car has 120,000 on the odo but I have no way of knowing if the transmission was modified or serviced in the past.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Could very well be the throwout bearing if its got a bunch of miles on it. Coincidence with the bleed timing is certainly possible. I assume the clutch pedal pressure is good from the bleed. Is the growling noise related to the clutch pedal position? Or is the car just making the noise regardless of pedal being in/out?

Thanks for the reply, the growling noise is ONLY when I have my foot on the clutch pedal. But it comes and goes, which is weird. I can certainly hear a slight noise when I press halfway down on the pedal every time though.

I have resigned to the fact that the bearing needs to be replaced and I just purchased a replacement OEM CSC and master cylinder for good measure.

:eek: Return that OEM CSC immediately!! It is very prone to failure and I wouldn't be surprised if it was replaced already. Get one of the aftermarket solutions from Joe at ZSpeed - I recommend the CMAK.

:iagree:

Honestly I can't really afford it right now so I'm buying something that will get me through the next 10 to 15,000 miles. If I get into the car and find out it already has an elimination kit in it then I'm just going to return the OEM CSC.

For the record, there are multiple reports of the OEM CSC failing on brand new cars as they are driven off the lot by their new owner. Seems like a pretty risky move if you are already struggling to afford repair costs; what happens if it fails in a few thousand miles and you have to pay labor to drop the transmission again? You can get the ZSpeed internal HDCSC for $325 (external CMAK is $495). That's only a $200 price difference plus a lifetime of peace of mind compared to the OEM CSC; if that is really make or break for you then maybe you can't afford the car.

I appreciate the information. I am FULLY aware of the OEM CSC problems. I am FULLY aware of cutting corners and taking on risk but I don't own two vehicles. This is my only car. Yes it's pricey but I need it fixed QUICK. THANKS GUY

At least you are aware. However, your comment of not owning two vehicles is even more reason to go with the known good part that doesn't have the possibility of leaving you stranded. But it's your car and your decision. Good luck and hope you get back on the road soon :driving:

I agree that it is CSC. Change out the pilot bearing while you are there and obviously check how much life is left on the clutch itself. Good luck.

Every thread about clutch issues. Your reply is to change out the pilot bearing. :rofl2: