My A/C shuts down the compressor at full power to maximize horse power. It is supposed to do that, but then it is supposed to turn back on. Mine does
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10-09-2018, 05:00 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Drives: 2011 6MT tour sprt
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A/C not turning back on after redline
My A/C shuts down the compressor at full power to maximize horse power. It is supposed to do that, but then it is supposed to turn back on. Mine does not do that. I have to restart the car to make my A/C compressor turn back on. The dealer charged me $75 to tell me they have no idea, and would I like them to start replacing things until it works correctly. I declined their offer and am relying on the good folks on the forum to have an answer. I am pretty sure it is the controller behind the kick plate on the drivers side, it had been replaced by the previous owner, but I have no idea what wire is the culprit. This has been an issue since I bought the car and I am now motivated to fix it. I would welcome any suggestions.
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10-10-2018, 11:51 AM | #2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Ive never had my AC compressor shut off at power - but I only do short pulls ~5 - 10 second pulls, even zipping a hill at a steep incline AC stays on, so Im not sure its supposed to shut off? Only thing I noticed with my AC is that when the ambient temps are 105+ degrees, my temp control goes from fresh air to re circulation.
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10-10-2018, 03:17 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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The A/C compressor shutting off at full power is only noticeable when it does not turn back on. There is a delay of about 30 to 45 seconds before you notice the temp blowing warmer and humidity going up. It only shuts down at 1000 rpm before redline to maximize HP then comes back on as revs drop. I read about the A/C condenser in a car mag years ago. It is only annoying in summer on a highway dropping to 4th and roaring by someone, off the highway I restart the car at next stop sign or red light or when it just gets too hot inside and putting windows down is not enough.
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10-10-2018, 05:37 PM | #4 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Location: Southern California
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Drives: 2010 370z Roadster
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Ah, good to know. What Ive seen doing a quick search, is either needing a freon charge, or bad CAI install rubbing on the AC lines. Maybe start by checking your charge?
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-Drop in K&N Filter -Invidia Gemini CBE -Z1 Oil Cooler -Swift Springs - EcuTek -Forgestar F14 -SPL Camber Links -Akebono BBK Upgrade -Z1 Premium SS Lines -SPL Diff Bushings -SPL FUCAs - BellRaceworks Diff Brace |
10-12-2018, 02:17 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ravenna
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Drives: 2011 6MT tour sprt
Rep Power: 11 |
The charge is fine, no charge lines rubbing or damaged, the A/C works fine unless I get to close to the shift light, then the car must be restarted for the cooling to restart. Mid October now so less A/C will be needed, hope to fix it by Spring. It is a known problem and can be avoided by shifting early, but less fun.
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10-12-2018, 02:31 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Tucson AZ
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WOW, never heard or experienced this issue my self. I have a boosted 2009 Z and live in AZ where we pretty much use the AC year round.
Hope you get it worked out! |
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