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OK, gearhead Z guys....

Today I took her out for a spin, and had her parked for about 1/2 hr or so. when I got in to start her, she resisted the first time

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Old 05-15-2016, 07:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default OK, gearhead Z guys....

Today I took her out for a spin, and had her parked for about 1/2 hr or so.
when I got in to start her, she resisted the first time (never happened before)
But 2nd attempt she started right up. Drove a mile or so, and BAM.. Limp mode. VDC light on steady, and CEL.
Got her home, and OBD said P0443 evap purge valve, and P2138 APP sensor.
Total of 8 codes, both listed 4 times????? strange.
Cleared codes, and started her up, drove about 1 mile, same thing.
Disconnected battery, reset ecu, drove her 10 or so miles.. All good.
Shut her off, and restarted........ Limp mode again.
Cleared codes with scanner, and started shopping for APP assembly.
Started her up 2 hours later, drove 15 or so miles, no issues.. shut her off, and restarted about 5 times, all good.
Now, Do I spend the $$$$ for the new APP, or could it have been a fluke thing?
I've got a big weekend coming up, and would hate to get stranded if it pops back up again.
What is the likelihood it may not rear its ugly head again? Should I bite the bullet and just buy the expensive bastard?
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Buy one to bring with you and then if it does flare up, replace it. Don't know how hard it is to replace on the road, however.

If it was me, I would rather replace it BEFORE something happens. Sort of an insurance policy...
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah...that's what I decided last.night. found it for $155, so not as bad as I thought
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonRizz View Post
Yeah...that's what I decided last.night. found it for $155, so not as bad as I thought
Let us know how it turns out.

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Old 05-18-2016, 10:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Should have gas pedal assembly tomorrow, probably tackle it Saturday am.
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Old 05-20-2016, 07:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Tackled it tonight.. Less than 5 minute job. Two 10mm screws at bottom of pedal, under a plastic cover, then slides up off of bracket in back. disconnect harness. reverse procedure, and follow re-learn procedure for ecu, finito
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Old 07-04-2016, 06:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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In a strange turn of events, the car is off on a rollback to Nissan. Yesterday, I had the SEL come on, along with the traction light, car wouldn't move.... I shut it off, and restarted, and drove her home, no issues. (traction light was off at this point) but SEL remained.... I cleared the code (sensor malfunction) and all was good.
today I drove her 25 or so miles to a friends stereo shop, and halfway home, shes bucking HARD, and stalls. after restart, the SEL is back, and traction light.. Now, I still have my Code reader in the car, and I scan it.. 4 codes... P0443, p0345, p2138, p2138. I clear the codes, and get her home (barely). disconnect battery, replace, all good for 5 or so miles, and Bam.. Same deal. Off to Nissan
42k miles, and one pissed off owner......
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Old 07-04-2016, 07:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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sorry to thread hack but I've had mine die when I cranked it up a couple times. it's usually after I cut it off to go in a store or gas station, etc. but I've never experienced limp mode
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Look's like the only mod's you have listed are electrical/electronic,,,have you recently added more item's? just a thought;;;& i'm sure you've up-graded your battery.
Be sure all ground's are good,,,that 345 cam sensor code on driver's side will kill it as will the 2138 acc pedal; unsure about evap solenoid 443,,,lot of things at one time.
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Hmmmm. Any time I see an evap code, I check the gas cap. But I don't see how the cap could trigger the other codes. I'm going to guess you have a wiring problem.
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Old 07-05-2016, 06:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yeah, actually the battery is fresh, less than a month old. No recent upgrades or changes to anything.. I am also leaning towards a wiring issue.... I guess Ill wait to see what the dealer tech has to say. They told me they will get it in there tomorrow..
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Old 07-05-2016, 06:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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May be on to something with the battery swap, if no problems Pryor; hopefully cables were cleaned good & a minimum battery quality of what came in it.
Something to think about.
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Old 07-07-2016, 01:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Battery has higher CCA than original, and replaced one identical to it. Cables are like new, hell, my engine bay doesn't even have dust in it...lol
Anyway, the dealer calls me yesterday, and says the car is running flawlessly, the tech drove it home the night before. I suggested they keep it another day or so, and let the tech drive it home once or twice more, just to get some miles on it. They call today, and say that it was acting up on him last night, and he discovered that the timing was advancing 35 degrees...... Bucking, and loss of power, but NO SEL. They are at a loss, and placed a call to Nissan tech line to see where to go next with it. Any thoughts?
( I forgot to mention, when I had it, and it was bucking violently, I specifically looked at the voltage meter, which did not flutter at all. This could be attributed to poor response time of the meter, though) Is a shorted wire something I should still consider??
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Old 07-08-2016, 03:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Soooo.... dealer calls me today and says the tech hotline guy tells him they have only seen this a few times, but they believe that the timing sprocket has shifted, albeit a microscopic amount, causing my issue. They will be doing testing and recording data today, and repair next week. They also told me this is a warranty issue as well.
I'm glad its getting fixed for free, but I'm pissed that Im missing a stereo show in Ellicott city, Md sunday over it...
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:09 AM   #15 (permalink)
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At least the dealer is aware of the issue and tech support have seen the problem before.
Hope you can get your Z back again with no issues.
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