Cleaning Top

OldGuyFla

I've had no problem with Raggtopp, both cleaner & protectant.

I agree don't use a power washer on the top & blot it instead of wiping to dry the top.

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Bummer

I use 303, many use Raggtopp. I don't see how you can go wrong with either. I picked 303 products because that's what a store I've shopped at for automotive stuff in the past had. I can't honestly say it's better than Raggtopp, it was mostly chance. It works. I like it. Good enough for me.

I apply protectant with a paint brush to get a very thorough and controlled application. Less hand cramping is a plus.

I can't imagine Meguiars making anything bad, but I use 303 cleaner and a large soft synthetic bristle brush. Light rinsing with low pressure to get the soap off. Absolutely no high pressure anything ever.

I agree with OldGuyFla, blot, don't wipe. The fabric part of the top is over $1k just to buy. I'm gonna' guess half that to have someone who knows what they're doing install it. That fairly screams hands (mostly) off to me.

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Steve

WI_Hedgehog

Somehow missed the post by @Rochdale and will stay with 303 cleaner to be sure there isn't any adverse chemical reaction taking place. Thank you for the advice on that.

I'm thinking of a horsehair brush as recommended by @GOBLUE,
Chemical Guys ACC_S94 Convertible Top Horse Hair Cleaning Brush
and probably 3 coats like @Hi-Step'n370Z did. It's cheap insurance while it's all masked up.

Where do you get the thin plastic sheets?

Bummer

I only masked when I treated the top the first time. Since that time I've used a cheap (not foam rubber) paintbrush and applied the treatment with that. It takes more chemical, but it's much more thorough and has no overspray.

There can be some dripping/runs, but that is easily cleaned up with no resultant problems. I just keep a rag in my pocket and if there's a run, I wipe it up (Usually literally - up, that is, since it's almost always on a side window.) immediately. I find that being careful at the edges reduces that need greatly. I open the top slightly to do the back edge.

I go over the top twice, and do that twice a season - spring and fall. I usually go through about three bottles of protectant a season. At least a full bottle each time.

I've used this method seven times now, with no problems at all. Until the fabric gets fully soaked, which is going to happen no matter what is used, it beads like it's waxed.

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Steve

WI_Hedgehog

Thanks for all the info! It pointed the correct direction to head in order to really nail down how to do the job the right way and extend the convertible top life.

As suggested, a brush does seem to be the best method regarding application on these small tops (vs. a roller on a large canvas boat top) for direct protectent placement and not breathing in the mist--that makes so much more sense than trying to spray it on.

The material used on the Nissan Z top is Stayfast C, the facing is woven solution-dyed acrylic, which is used in most every quality "canvas" top.

If the material does need to be replaced at some point, perhaps Sonnenland A5B/DS would be a better choice to cut down on road noise. Stayfast C is what I would class an upper-quality product (better than most anything on the market), and in that class it's on the lower end of what Haartz makes. You can see this when comparing Sonnenland and Stayfast weaves and overall appearance; Stayfast looks great, Sonnenland looks incredible.

The manufacturer suggests using RAGGTOPP™. Reportedly, they recommended 303 for 20 years until changing to RAGGTOPP in the last three years or so.

Glen Raven makes similar acrylic fabric used in outdoor awnings and marine applications such as boat tops, and recommends 303® Fabric Guard™ as the preferred re-treatment product for Sunbrella fabrics.

Both products should therefore work well, the question is which works better. This isn't so much OCD as it is wanting to get the most protection for the effort invested. Regarding waterproofing, 303 Fabric Guard beats RAGGTOPP convincingly in every aspect. If the material is properly cleaned and the products brushed on, both do well, but there is almost no argument on the Internet regarding direct comparisons--303 simply works better and lasts longer. As noted though, 303 requires more preperation, which could be why Haartz now suggests RAGGTOPP.

The more important concern is UV protection, as the sun will destroy the waterproofing and material if there isn't excellent UV protection. While RAGGTOPP claims it's UV protection is far superior to 303 (according to reports by people who've spoken to the company), real-world testing is generally more reliable. Boat owners are a reliable group, since their "canvas" protects other things from UV, and their boats sit in salt mist in all sorts of climates, but generally "mostly sunny," and boating is expensive and a lot of maintenance as is so they look to make things last. They like 303. (Boat owners also detail why ScotchGuard is not recommended.)

It seems people use 303 Aerospace protectant for seals, weatherstripping, dashes and panels, and other rubber/vinyl stuff.

Found light plastic for the first time out, but will probably cut open a few garbage bags instead as the product isn't being sprayed. I'll tape it off with Scotch 46338 233+ 36 mm on the round areas and 3M 06654 36 mm Automotive Refinish Masking Tape on the straights. My choice in using 303 is gallon sizes are available, it works better, and I don't mind the extra cost or labor of keeping it off the paint as I'd want to do that with RAGGTOPP also. Both products seem to be "the best" with minor differences.


The following quote lays out the very important prep work, although as @270six suggested, vacuum first with a soft brush in small, circular strokes and high-suction vacuum.
Edit: Found TRM Manufacturing HD12 Weatherall Painter's Plastic 0.31 Mil Clear Hi Density Sheeting, 1 Box of 400 Feet Long by 12 Feet Wide

OldGuyFla

Yes it seems that 303 & raggtopp are the 2 main products. From my research after getting the roadster it seemed to me that the consensus was that 303 would last longer & raggtopp was much easier to apply. Both pretty good UV protection. At the time I wasn't wanting to mask off everything so I went with raggtopp.

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WI_Hedgehog

I read complaints (on the Interweb) about 303's parent company not returning e-mails or phone calls. I log 5 hours. Darn good in my book.

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Sent: Wednesday, June 1
To: 303 Marketing

Wondering which is better for a car's black convertible top in Wisconsin, the "canvas" is actually woven solution-dyed acrylic which is what most high-end car/boat tops and outdoor awnings are made from.

303 Marine & Recreation Fabric Guard
- or -
303 Fabric Guard

or a different product.

Thanks,
Hedge

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Hello WI Hedgehog,

Thank you for contacting Gold Eagle Co. 303® Marine & Recreational Fabric Guard and 303® Fabric Guard are the same product with different labels. The label may vary depending on the market in which it is bought (automotive, marine, patio, etc.). The features, benefits and mode of applications remain the same.

Please let us know if you have any questions.

Thanks,

Sales & Marketing Support Specialist
Gold Eagle Company
1-800-367-3245