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Convertible top main frame broken

3 different bungee kits designed by Nissan to fix the convertible top issues. None work. Nissan no longer sells the frame for the 370z. IMO Nissan convertibles are junk. Not

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Old 10-26-2021, 06:06 PM   #31 (permalink)
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3 different bungee kits designed by Nissan to fix the convertible top issues. None work. Nissan no longer sells the frame for the 370z. IMO Nissan convertibles are junk. Not sure about the rest of the car but I’ve been hearing horror stories about frequent electrical, transmission, and engine failures on other models.
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Old 11-04-2021, 06:25 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I have the same issue have you found anyone who can fabricate it ?
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Old 11-04-2021, 01:42 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Prodjay10 View Post
3 different bungee kits designed by Nissan to fix the convertible top issues. None work. Nissan no longer sells the frame for the 370z. IMO Nissan convertibles are junk. Not sure about the rest of the car but I’ve been hearing horror stories about frequent electrical, transmission, and engine failures on other models.
I agree about the top issues... Unacceptable for any car that is a late model. Overall, I think that the Z is pretty reliable, but many of us have valid concerns over the oil gallery gaskets, and for those with the 6-speed, the imminent early failure of the CSC. Fortunately, there appears to be robust replacement options out there for the inferior OEM parts.

Japanese reliability still trumps other imports. My Acura TL has had a few things go wrong with it that surprised me for a Honda-built vehicle. Even Toyota can't seem to keep things straight based on their recall history. Overall, I still would buy Japanese over Korean, European or domestic brands.

If I had done more research about the Z Roadster top problems before I made my purchase, I'd probably have bought another soft-top Miata. Alas, hindsight is 20/20, plus the topless Z is still a blast to drive, so I've learned to accept the top issue and have plans to make it a permanent convertible as soon as it fails. Resale value will sink, but it is what it is.
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Old 11-12-2021, 02:36 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Default Sadly no new Z Roadster in My future.........

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I agree about the top issues... Unacceptable for any car that is a late model. Overall, I think that the Z is pretty reliable, but many of us have valid concerns over the oil gallery gaskets, and for those with the 6-speed, the imminent early failure of the CSC. Fortunately, there appears to be robust replacement options out there for the inferior OEM parts.
Indeed.... I had 11 years of trouble free use out of my roadster until this past May. It was trial by fire all at once this year with my top after a hydraulic line cracked. After a brief misdiagnosis I replaced the line and its back in operation again but I'll never have the confidence in it I did before. I have over 110k on it and its been to every corner of the US and Canada but its long haul days are over. I wouldn't want the top to fail when I'm 2,000 miles away from home.

Too bad Nissan isn't bringing a new long haul friendly roadster to market as it will force me to look elsewhere when I buy again... likely in 2023. A Miata is FAR, FAR too tiny, the Boxter is somewhat small as well. It will probably be a new BMW Z4 or the Corvette convertible. They are the only 2 seaters I know of that are large enough to be comfortable during long drives. Sadly the Jag F Type roadster is gone as well.
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Old 01-16-2022, 11:18 AM   #35 (permalink)
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You're talking at least 8-12k to have this particular part 3D scanned and replicated . 2k alone just for the scanning (it's about a 80k machine that does the scanning) NISSAN HAS TO HAVE THE POWER TO REPLICATE!! They need to come off their supplier info and help us all out!! I know it's "made In china" it has a part# on it (15302160000) or its a supplier code # but it could be tracked down and sourced through nissan but they are not willing to assist..also, the part is made out of magnesium, not cast aluminum, Def not cast iron and is a pos made in china junk that clearly is an issue!! Imagine ALL the people that haven't "tuned in" to this thread that have or had the same problem. Outside of Nissan, there are only few options to fix this. 1. Buy a used top (4-5k) and pray it doesn't happen again (it will eventually) 2. Try locating a salvage top and have them pull the specific part (not an easy part to get to) 3. Have part made out of titanium (very costly but could be a permanent fix also titanium is a very difficult metal to mold and shape, very sticky) or 4. They do make a hard top convertible for around $2500 but its 40lbs and not something you can "take" with you on trips.. www.smoothline.com) 5. Try to find a welder (with vast experience and knowledge of how to work with magnesium filler) to weld part together, but that will only be a temporary fix to the ridiculous and poorly over engineering issue that ultimately should lie in the hands of NISSAN to fix or come up with the replacement part and/or solution to!! Nissan needs to be sued imo. Join the class action listed in this thread!! Together, we are more powerful than 1 person! Together maybe we could all combine efforts and $ to having this part made! I'm open for suggestions and can be reached anytime @ 619.240.6191 Matty .. all the best guys! 👍🏻
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Old 04-27-2022, 01:48 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Default Convertible Top

Thank you for the summary of options to date! I have a 2017 and my top just broke last weekend. Can anyone provide any updates as to the class action lawsuit or other options that have not been discussed here?
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Old 05-02-2022, 03:27 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Thank you for the summary of options to date! I have a 2017 and my top just broke last weekend. Can anyone provide any updates as to the class action lawsuit or other options that have not been discussed here?

Look for a used one from eeebay or Junkyard, that's the best option to go with.
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Old 10-28-2022, 06:57 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I know, old thread. Well sadly its my turn. Both of mine broke today. Has anyone had any luck with welding these back?
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Old 11-01-2022, 11:40 AM   #39 (permalink)
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@Brueggy4

Did you ever get yours fixed?

My dealer said they can't even get the kit anymore, not that I would pay the $15k or whatever for one. They are asking around town for advise on a repair.

The best I've heard so far is cut the end of the "hinge" off, fabricate a replacement plate and bolt it on. Not sure if thats doable with the top still on the car. There's room but not a lot, to work in.
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Old 12-18-2022, 03:55 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I have repaired my roof. It was broken at the rear linkage on the cast peice. Both sides.
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Old 12-19-2022, 09:04 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Can you post a "quick" explanation of your fix?
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Old 12-20-2022, 11:34 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Hi yes I made up a couple of metal plates and cut away the damaged section. I have made a kit with fitting instructions.
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Old 12-22-2022, 01:38 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Hi yes I made up a couple of metal plates and cut away the damaged section. I have made a kit with fitting instructions.

do you sell the kit?
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Old 12-23-2022, 02:32 AM   #44 (permalink)
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do you sell the kit?
Messaged.
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Old 01-07-2023, 01:41 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Well I finally started work on my top "hinge" fix. Both of mine broke and I came up with a motorcycle rear foot peg bracket that was 90% of what I wanted. It already had the offset I needed, and it has holes on both ends. Even the holes were the perfect size for the pivot hinge pin on the Z. So I drill pressed the offset a bit more, cut it in half and drilled the mounting holes.
On the car I cut off the broken holes making sure the new brackets would line up right and (here's one problem) then only drilled one bracket mount hole on each side. I want two bolts per bracket. The front holes I planned on were just too far up under the top, I had no drill to fit in that tiny area. Maybe hit it at the angle and try to file it out. I'll see.
So, just to test it, I put it all together using the one mount bolt per side and had no issues.
Then the tests. It closed just fine, but to open it, it would go almost all the way down in to the stow-away but would stop about 4-6 inches too high. The big issue I haven't figured out yet is: the nuts I used on each side for the bracket mount bolts hits a bar very near the bottom of the mechanism, this stops the entire folded top to resting all the way down. Even the brackets touch but gets by, but with the nut its too much.

That’s it, that’s where I stand right now. lol Not sure what to do next. "I know a guy" and plan to show it to him and see if he's got any ideas.

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