Great problem with soft top mecanism

Orni

Ohhhhh yes

gbhrps

Orni,

The most difficult parts to removing the top cloth, and either replacing it with a new top material, or putting the old one on, after a repair to the convertible top mechanism? ............

I'd say its trying to follow the steps outlined in the factory service manual. They use drawings rather than photos in the manual, which are so hard to orientate which direction the drawing is showing and just exactly where on the mechanism this drawing is supposed to show. Sure they have a Big arrow pointing to the front of the car, but even then its confusing as to which side of the car are they showing you, in some of the diagrams.

Add to that, drilling out those pop rivets, unless you've done that before on some device or another, a first timer is going to be scratching their heads as to how its to be done.

Removing those side cables from the old top material, in order to put them in the new top, and how to route them through it??? Again really a puzzler until you've done it a time or two. Maybe (if you're reusing the same top material) you should attach a cord to the cable before pulling it out, and then leave the cable in the top, so when you install the cable again you can attach the cable to the cord, and use the cord to pull the cable back into place (the process used when replacing turn signal wiring harnesses through the internals of a steering column).

I guess what I'm trying to get across is that the entire process requires a great deal of looking back and forth at the actual top and the RF pdf section of the service manual, and being certain as to how to proceed with just that one step ... and then getting it right .... before you commit and actually do it.

It isn't hard work, its just very confusing and fussy, and requires someone with a lot of patience and detail. Tackling a top replacement , one this intricate, and getting a professional looking result without doing any damage to the material, is going to take some expertise.

Anyone can do a brake job watching a few YouTube videos, but not everyone is cut out to replace a 370Z top.

That said ... there is a very good top replacement video on YouTube on a 350Z roadster, about 25 minutes long. While some of the procedures are the same, the 370Z has even more twists in store. It'd sure would be a good place to start before tackling the 370Z.

Gene

gbhrps

alcheng,

I agree! It would be nice to know how both of these guys made out.

The TopHydraulics YouTube videos weren't available back then and might have helped both of these guys out in certain areas. More keeps getting posted on these tops and more expertise keeps showing up from time to time, but it sure would be better if there was a central depot for repairs of this nature, and parts availability from Nissan.

Gene

BoilardZ

For what it's worth: one of the rear hinges on my soft top broke in the third year (still under warranty) and Nissan replaced the entire top (at a cost to them of $19,000). So, as regards one of the earlier posts, my soft top issues were indeed due to a broken hinge.
Although Nissan replaced the entire top, I suspect it could have just been welded for $100 or so.
Steve

Neoatw

I have the same problem! 2010 car with 16000 miles only...always garaged and rarely driven. Top broke last year but out of warranty, and now I am stuck with it.

BoilardZ

Seriously: Do us all a favor and see if you can have the hinge welded or otherwise repaired. I have to believe it's possible.Should cost WAY less than a new top!

viiv

I don't have a convertible, but if I did:

Step 1. I'd have a local convertible specialist extract the broken part, (driver and passenger side).

Step 2. Take precise measurements (break out the digital caliper) and have an Autocad model generated for the part. If you don't know how to do this, find someone locally who does, maybe a shop that can 3D scan it and generate an Autocad file for you.

Step 3. Send the completed Autocad computer file to a firm like this to fabricate a new part out of titanium: https://www.emachineshop.com/titanium/

Step 4. Ask other forumers here if they were interested in a group buy to get the cost of producing the part down. If I was another random convertible owner on here, I would participate in the group buy even if my part was not broken yet, just to have them on hand for when they do, because it is a question of when not if. Heck, I'd probably swap them out before they broke, just so it's better than factory.

Step 5. Have local convertible specialist install new titanium parts.

Step 6. Never worry about part breaking down or corroding ever again; it's titanium. I chose titanium because the original part is made of aluminum. I bet Nissan (or their supplier who are building this roof for them) chose aluminum for this hinge because they don't want the heavy weight of stainless steel weighing down the assembly. Thus, as someone with an engineering background, I would like to warn you that if you had this part made of a heavier metal, it may throw the whole design out of balance and in the long term, cause other problems and break other components down the line. IMHO, titanium is the only option for a long term, permanent and perfect OEM+ fix.

As an outsider with a coupe, it seems to me that even if you are still under warranty, and Nissan replaces your roof you are just kicking the can down the road. By the time your new roof breaks (again) you will be out of warranty.

P.S. The original part looks like it's (die?)cast aluminum to me. There is no way to weld broken cast aluminum together and expect it to have anywhere close to the original tensile strength it originally had. Remember, the fracture happened there for a reason, as the fault line of the fracture represents the highest stress points in the part. Now you are putting a much weaker weld in the fault line, the same fault line that represents that highest stress datum along the part and expect it to hold. Any weld or repair to it will be useless and the weld will be ripped apart almost instantly as soon as the same stress forces are applied. It will just be a waste of your money in both welding it and the cost of labour to remove and reinstall it. The weld will be MUCH weaker than the original unbroken piece and even that still broke with the high stresses it has to endure.

gbhrps

viiv,

I would add that instead of autocading the broken frame section, autocad the other side frame section that's not broken ... and reverse its dimensions where necessary to produce the broken frame section (assuming that's possible, and that the unbroken frame section is still good to use as a copy).

I think you have a good solution here for those who have the expertise and connections to go this route. Its not one I had thought of, but it certainly makes perfect sense.

If I needed just such a repair part, even if it eventually cost me $2000 to have the two new frame sections made in this manner, it would be well worth the money when compared to the massive dollar amount that Nissan wants for an entire new top.

Gene

alcheng

I have an update for you guys, on my roadster.

Same problem happened to mine last Oct and both sides are broken.

I thought it's a small-medium size hinge/component and I tried to so a search online and found nothing from Nissan

Eventually I talked to a shop and I was planning to have them remove the top and those broken components to see are they repairable or I can have a shop to machine/duplicate the part for me.

Eventually, right before I did that, I calculate the potential cost:

1) remove the top
2) take it apart
3) have someone to machine the parts (if possible since I have no idea exactly the size and the shape of it)
4) put the replacement parts and the top together
5) Put the top back onto the car then put the canvas back on.

This already will cost me around 3k to 5k

AND, I have to pray the top will work well since it's been taken apart and the new parts might still be slightly off than the OEM


Therefore, eventually, I found a whole top from ebbaaay, used one.

cost me about 3k, shipped it to Canada, cost a bit, then have the shop to just swap the whiole thing.

There's some glitch but at least it's all done now and I know it's a complate OEM top.


Regarding that broken parts, I am glad I chose the latter route.

I checked out the broke parts, it's actually a big piece that goes from the broken area to the back of the side window, and the shape is very weird which it's impossible to machine (or it'll cost alot if someone is willing to do it)


So... if some of you are still stuck with that broken part(s)/top, go get a used top and swap it.

pinky

well we are starting a class action against nissan on this top.

Come join our action
https://www.facebook.com/Nissan370ZTopClassAction

flammhoocker

Bonjour à tous
je suis l'heureux propriétaire d'un 370Z roadster de 2010, mais gros problème lorsque je veux fermer le toit, le capot de la capote se déverrouille et se lève de 30 cm et s'arrête, j'appuie sur le bouton d'ouverture du toit, le capot se referme et se verrouille normalement, pas de défaut sur le tableau de bord.
est ce que quelqu'un à déjà eu ce problème?
merci pour vos réponses