![]() |
Thanks to the guidance of Top Hydraulics and many posters here, my mechanic was able to isolate the culprit – see pix. Pinched wires causing a short. The wires are
|
![]() |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#1 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3
Drives: 2010 roadster
Rep Power: 14 ![]() |
![]()
Thanks to the guidance of Top Hydraulics and many posters here, my mechanic was able to isolate the culprit – see pix. Pinched wires causing a short. The wires are located on the driver’s side and attached to the hinge / arm bracket that lifts the rear cover. They run to the 5th bow lock attached to the cover. You have to remove the protective sleeve to expose the wires. They pinch just below the little black casing that holds the wires to the arm. 10 cents of electrical tape = problem solved. No thanks to my Nissan dealership and they’re “replace the whole roof solution”. I’ll never go back there again. Pain in the *** and poor design flaw but easily fixed. Big props to Top Hydraulics and this forum
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 213
Drives: 2016 RDSTR TS 6spd
Rep Power: 7996 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]()
dtman and Cryogenius,
Guys! Thanks for posting the pictures. I can't tell you how much that is going to help people out. Watching this Roadster section of the forum since 2017 I been able to piece together from many sources that MOST of the top issues out there are about the top striking the storage compartment door (the other way around) on opening (new bungee cord design seems to solve that issue so far), and top inoperable due to pinched broken wires somewhere on the driver's side harness at the hinge. But NOW ... everyone knows where to start looking for the broken wires due to your help, and Top Hydraulics with Karl in Oregon and his top repair videos on YouTube. I'm going to open my top part way shortly (still in the 40 degree range here) and check that section of the harness to see if its folding underneath a hinge or an arm that might be pinching it. Perhaps using some tape or such could pull it slightly in another direction out of harms way. I'll have to see and report back. The more we know .... the better to make the repairs ourselves and save big dollars. Gene Last edited by gbhrps; 04-08-2020 at 06:10 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 (permalink) | |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Mountain Top
Posts: 270
Drives: 370Z Roadster 2010
Rep Power: 209 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() Quote:
![]() One Question - At What Point OR How Do You Insert The 2 X 4 Support Obviously It Must Be Needed To Keep The Top In That Position Please Explain That Important Step - THANKS - ![]()
__________________
* ROADSTER * TOURING * 2010 * PLATINUM * GRAPHITE * * Z * NISSAN * 370Z * NISSAN * Z *
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3
Drives: 2010 roadster
Rep Power: 14 ![]() |
![]()
The location where mine pinched is just below the black plastic case that holds the wires to the lift arm. The up / down action with flexing wires attached to an immoveable bracket is where the problem arises. We just detached it from the bracket rewrapped it and let it move freely with only the hydraulic line left in the bracket. Still keeping an eye on it for issues.
As for the 2x4 – once the lid is open, I just stuck it in to hold it open and allow more space to work. The hardest part of the whole job is removing the 5th bow lock if your system won’t open. Top Hydraulics show how to do that in their videos. Best of luck everyone. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: France
Posts: 1
Drives: 370Z Roadster
Rep Power: 8 ![]() |
![]()
Dear 370Z forum members,
Just a short message from France to thank you for all your informations and pictures helping me to solve my roadster roof problem (stop half way !). Nissan was only able to give me DTC code B177D meaning "open sensor failure" and impossible to solve a "simple problem" except by changing all the roof system for more than 20K€. Finally, with the help of Klaus and videos from TOP HYDRAULICS, i decided to change myself the 2 main lift cylinders (little oil leak) and also discover a non visible cut wire (green wire "open sensor"). After reconnection of the green wire, my roof now perfectly work and stronger with the excellent cylinders from TOP HYDRAULICS. Picture attached show you exactly where was the "cut wire". Finally, this "big problem" for Nissan was not so difficult to solve ... and hope it will help you if needed. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
WARNING! You may get stranded if you see this light. | Minicobra1 | Nissan 370Z Warranty / Scheduled Maintenance / Servicing / Repairs | 18 | 06-19-2019 04:09 PM |
Key warning light picture? | plato | Nissan 370Z General Discussions | 9 | 03-03-2014 04:06 PM |
Hood warning light need help | Loki | Engine & Drivetrain | 0 | 03-28-2012 09:46 AM |
tail light out warning light | cossie1600 | Exterior & Interior | 0 | 06-28-2011 08:15 PM |
Ikey warning light | X90DAV | Nissan 370Z General Discussions | 4 | 04-25-2010 08:50 PM |