Ordering 2013 touring with everything pricing?
 

I'm in the market for a 2013 stick shift 370Z touring with sports package, nav, illuminated kick plates, etc (basically everything). I've only really shopped around at 2 dealers and they seem to want me to pay full sticker. I'm trading in a 2008 350Z grand touring (about 62,000 miles) with everything and have no idea what it's worth at a dealer. My 350Z is paid off and I've been saving up to put 10,000 down if need be to try and get a better deal. I was also curious how long you guys think it would take to get delivered. The dealer said about 6 weeks but when I order my 350Z back in 2008 that took about 90 days. Any advise would be great.

If I were in your shoes, I'd sell the 350 privately. If you do go in for a trade-in, treat the trade in as a completely separate transaction. Don't even mention the trade-in until you negotiate the price of the 370z first. There is no reason you should be paying the full sticker price if what you want is on the lot. If they have to ship from elsewhere or direct from Nissan its a bit more difficult to haggle, but you should still be paying less than the sticker price. Go to kbb.com or edmunds.com. It's going to give you the price for your old car and your new car including the trade in values. The 350z in "good" condition is worth around $18,200 for trade-in...$20,500 if you sold it privately.

A fully loaded 2013 touring should be about $40,800 which has an invoice of $40,000. Always shoot for the invoice price. The dealer will still make money...don't let them tell you otherwise. Make them an offer and be prepared to walk away. If it's within reason, they'll call you back. Just be prepared to do some battle with the finance guys afterwards. They'll try to make up the difference by adding stuff on...like rust proofing and all that other non-sense.

Thanks for the great advise, I'm definitely prepared to walk if need be. Btw, what's this rust proofing you speak of? I currently live near Seattle but will probably move back to Florida in a year or 2. I'm assuming this is something I wouldn't need but just curious.

Rust proofing is BULLSHÍT...
They like saying the rustproof the undercoating, which they don't... They never will, lol

Haha, thanks. I'll be sure to remember that.

Anyone have a realistic estimate on a delivery date?

I've seen people wait up to 4 months. 6 weeks is BS, that would be a record. I would just shop what's available in country and pay for transport

I figured as much with the 6 weeks, but 4 months. Wow, that's a while...

Shop around, since you're buying new, no need to come out and test drive it, don't deal with YOUR dealer to get the car

Call whatever dealer has the car you want, talk to a sales MANAGER, only the sales manager, and level with them. (It's what I did with my car and every car I have gone to deal with)

Call up, say you live in Seattle, none of th dealers by you have what you want and there is no way you're going to fly to their dealer to look at their car, you need to make a deal over the phone and you don't have time to deal with bullshít games and BS fees and added this/that...
Say "ALL I want is for the dealer to lose money", sounds stupid, but if the salesman is smart, he knows what you want

(Me and my pops are going to AZ soon to buy his Maxima, they had it at 12k off but it's all BS off, student discount, military discount, mentally challenged brother discount, mother is a whore discount, and like senior citizen discount... All told, it's only $7k off... I told the guy all I wanted is for them to lose money, he said oh yeah, the car has rust proofing and tint and that's added, I said look, rip that shít off and lets not BS each other... The guy was cool as hell and worked it down to 11.5k off... Close enough for me!


If you find what you want, I'll be MORE than happy to call the dealer on your behalf, I LOVE fúcking with them. Just know you most likely won't be able to fly out wherever it is and drive it back (not sure if that is something you'd want to do) and assume that for every 1/2 length of America, you'll pay $700 shipping to WA...
Los Angeles to WA~$600, TX to WA~$700


Hit me up, I love talking about how to rape Nissan/dealers over (310)eight nine three-4207

hahaha I LOVE IT
I should've called you when I was buying my nismo. everyone was d**kin with me

Haha, thanks guys. I'll be heading into the dealer in a few days and if they give me a run around I'll be sure to let you know. Thanks!

Not sure if I should've started a new thread for this or not.
Been talking with my Nissan dealer about ordering a 370Z with all the options I want. Well it turns out they found one with everything I want at a distribution center on the east coast. Still wrapped and everything from what the dealer says. I don't have a VIN number yet but according to the paperwork I have the car in question has a production month of 11/2012 and manufacture date of 12/20/2012. Is it normal for a car to be at a distribution center this long before going to a dealer? Also, how many miles should I expect to see on the car? I'm not sure if I should go ahead on this one or just place an order like I had originally planned?

Dealers can find what you want through their dealer network in the fraction of the time you'd have to wait ordering from the factory.
If you buy do it at the end of the month when the dealer wants to get rid of stock.
I just bought a 2013 Z with sport, touring, 7AT, Bose, nav, heated leather seats, I don't think there were any other factory options the car didn't have.
The sticker was $45,555. I badgered the salesman for 2 hours, started to walk out 3 times and finally got them down to $37,800.
I bought my Z on 12-31. End of the month, end of the year. They were more anxious the move a Z than I was to buy it. I'm sure they still made a profit, and better deals may have been had but it was a local dealer and I didn't have to drive hundreds of miles or be on the phone for days on end.

Thanks
Anyone know how many miles the car comes from the factory and what I should expect?

What would be an above average deal on a 7at touring. I may get get the kick plates but that's about it.

my car came with the illuminated kick plates. one day, I dropped the iPod on it and that created a big dent. I went to the dealer to get it fixed and it cost big bucks. If you are going to order those kick plates, you have got to be extra careful not to drop things on them. They are softer than a soda can. Knowing what I know, I would rather not have them.

5-9 seems to be about right

Yeah, they are SUPER thin... I have seen many a dents on those

Thanks!

Check out truecar.com. They'll show you the prices that people are actually paying for 370 Z's in your area. You can configure it with options and get an idea of MSRP vs invoice vs market prices.

It's just another tool in your negotiating toolbox, but I and a few friends have found their numbers to be generally pretty good. You may be able to do better, but it's a start and gives you an idea of where you "should" be. If nothing else, the "Certified Dealer" numbers you give you something you can print & take to your salesman, "beat this". I've had a couple of salesmen gripe at me about using Truecar numbers from other dealerships, which I take as a good sign. ;)

FYI...

2013 370Z Touring + Sport + SatNav + Kick plates = $43,990 MSRP. Invoice = $40,857. TrueCar has "certified dealers" that say they'll do the deal for $39,154 (in my area).

Good luck!

I second the TrueCar.com suggestion. Once they see you know the numbers it pretty much cuts out a lot of the sales BS.

I just ordered a 13 Z for invoice + tax & fees. Now comes the wait...

Another tip is to talk to more than 1 dealer. First dealer told me they would order for invoice + $1000. Then I went to a 2nd dealer and asked if they could beat another dealers price of invoice + $500. Then went back to 1st dealer and told them another dealer was willing to order for invoice, but I wanted to give them a shot to win the business, which they jumped on and agreed to order at invoice price. It took a lot of back and forth and patience, but well worth it.

What was the otd price? Did they want to charge obscure fees? I'm in the market for a 2013 370z touring + sport, rear view camera. Carsdirect lists the invoice as 39125 and I'm sure I can talk the dealer a little below that but then I'm scared the actual otd is gonna go skyrocket. :rolleyes:

Again, I'm not sure if I should post this here or not. But, I got a call today from my dealer telling me the vin number of a car they found at a distribution center. Well I'm having trouble looking it up online. Where is the best place to look? And, is there a chance that it's so new that the vin number isn't in a database yet?

No need to really be "scared" of an OTD price. Yes, some sleazy dealerships can play games with fees & surcharges, especially if you're letting them arrange the financing. But IMHO, most won't if you present yourself as a mature & reasonably savvy buyer. They prey on the people who don't understand how financing & taxes work. Don't be one of those people.

If you're really worried about the OTD price, just insist on negotiating the OTD price. They can easily roll in the required fees & taxes as part of the "4-square" game. Even if you're financing and negotiating by payment (be careful...), just be very clear about the interest rate & term, but still, "OTD".

This way, there are no surprises in the title/warranty/finance office when you sign the paperwork. Whatever terms you've agreed upon should be clearly documented in the paperwork. If not, or they try to sneak in other fees, just walk out. Oh sure, they'll try to sell you extra stuff; etching, rust-proofing, service plans, extended warranty, pin-striping, blah, blah, blah, but you just have to say "no thanks" to all of it and you'll walk out paying exactly what you negotiated.

Good luck! :tiphat:

Augustus,

I just order a 2013 370z fully loaded set the OTD price and gave a $1000 deposit. But I never set the interest rate, however they run my credit and i'm real close to 750, what kind of APR do you think I should be looking at? I know my parents were able to get a .9% APR in subaru and honda (a few months ago) and my parents told me that my credit is better than them. Do you think I can get this from Nissan or should I go to a bank and get a loan from them instead? Thanks for any help.

PS
This is my first car purchase so I'm new to all this experience any tips will help.

Sorry, I can't really help you with whether or not you'd get financing. I'm not a banker, just someone who's bought or has been "on point" with family members buying new cars every year or so for the past 20 years. :roflpuke2:

A credit score of 750 is pretty good, but there's more to it than that. Your job status, age, employment history, banking history, residential history, & debt-to-income ratio all play a role. Every bank has different standards, and standards are a bit tighter than they were a few years ago.

I don't think NMAC has any special financing on the 370Z right now, so you're looking at "normal" financing. The dealership will likely try to steer you towards a bank that they have a relationship with. Banks give dealerships a cut of the financing fees, so they don't have your best interests (pardon the pun :shakes head: ) in mind when setting up your financing. Interest rates are historically low - a local credit union is advertising 1.9% for up to 60 months on 2010-2013 model-year cars. That's pretty crazy for a non-incentive rate.

The .9% that your folks got through Honda or Subaru was probably an incentive rate that was backed by the finance arms of the respective companies. You probably won't be able to get that low of a rate on the open market unless perhaps you're looking at a very short (12-24 month) term. Nissan has done 0% for up to 60 months on 370Z's in the past. I know last year they had it last spring on 2012's. You could want to wait a week and see if something special is announced in February.

In the absence of special manufacturer financing, I would at least look into arranging your own financing. Talk to your bank where you or your family have an existing relationship. They'll be happy to talk to you about a car loan. You can get real & honest answers about what it means to finance a car; amounts, required down payments, interest rates, terms, insurance requirements, and monthly payments. That removes the pressure of this from the dealership ritual, as you will walk in knowing exactly what that $xx,xxx OTD price means to you in terms of a monthly payment. It gives you a bit more negotiating power with the dealership, as it takes away an avenue for them to rip you off. It also potentially removes the embarrassment of being denied a loan at the dealership. One caveat though - don't go applying for car loans at a half-dozen banks all at once. That will ding your credit rating. If you've already filled out a credit application with the dealer (sounds like you did, since they told you your credit score), you might want to wait and see what they say.

I shouldn't assume anything, but if this is your first new car and if you're somewhat youngish, I would humbly suggest that you call your insurance agent before you buy the car. Insuring a Z sometimes isn't for the faint of heart. It will be considerably more than your 2012 Forester. ;) Make sure you can afford the insurance premium before you buy the car. :tup:

Good luck! :tiphat:

Thanks for the advice!!, yeah i did contact my insurance a few times before i went to the dealership. I know the payments are going to be a little high for the insurance but looking at my expenses I saw that I was able to manage it and still save money at the end of the month. :happydance:

However, I also calculated my payments for the car but after reading a few other treads (that somehow were hiding when I was doing my research) I'm getting a little worried about the finance. I do appreciate your help very much and never knew how much was into your credit score. :shakes head:

I was thinking about going to my bank and my parents to see what I can get . Do you think if my parents cosign the car will I be able to get the a low APR in case Nissan or the Bank can't help me? Also, will then the title be in both me and my parents name if they cosign? Sorry to bombard you with questions but i'm new to this and right now i'm really appreciating your help a lot!! Thanks!!

Should I start a new thread on this? I searched "VIN" and not much came up.

I sense that tempers may start to flare when the phrases, "first new car", "buying a Z", "parents", and "co-sign" start being put in the same post. Not from me, but just to give you a heads up on what may be coming... :wtf2:

To answer your question, yes, a co-signer can help you qualify for better interest rates.

I would really suggest that you just go talk to your bank. They'll lay out what the terms are, and you can discuss whether a co-signer would help the rate. Because yes, there are definitely cases where you might qualify for the loan in general, but a co-signer would lower the APR.

I don't know about the names on the title. As joint-buyers, I would think that both of your names would be on the title. But I do believe that this varies from state-to-state. It may also depend on the bank too, since they're the ones who will have a lien on the title. I don't really know. :icon14:

I'd try to finance it on your own, first. It's nice that your parents would co-sign for you, but if that's required to make the deal happen, then I see that as a sign that you're perhaps not financially ready to take out a $40K car loan. I don't mean to offend. Just a random forum poster's :twocents:.

Once again thanks so much for your help!,

yeah i'll be definitely be contacting my bank and see what they say...sorry if it sounded "off" on my previous posts (im new to this forum stuff too), guess i should triple check my post before i submit them lol.

I guess i have to wait and see when the car gets here to see whats on my best interest. Thanks for the help!

Edit:
Thanks for the extra advice, I just want to clarify one think and i appreciate your advice very much.

I did my finances and I can afford the car payments + paying back loans + gas & transport to work+money for what ever i need... I have to thank my parents for that and for pushing me to study since I was a little kid and now I'm working as an engineer. I just wanted some extra cash to be able to pay more than the minimum on my loans and not over pay on the car as well with the APR, that's whats worrying me the most and thought i just ask to for advice

Thanks Augustus. I did some research and actually you can find pretty much anything online :tup:
Edmunds, carsdirect and the DMV site were helpful in determining what a fair price for the Z I'm looking to buy would be.

Tip for my fellows in California: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/FeeCalculator...VehicleForm.do should give a good estimate of OTD price (licence plate fees not there..) based on the most recent tax laws.

Out the door with everything added was $33,000. That was with a trade in and down payment. I still had to pay tax. :shakes head:

Then it was not OTD :p - Jokes apart, with a trade in it was a good deal. Well depending on which packages you went for.

Out the door as in everything at the very end of the bill of sale, total price paid.
Packages? EVERYTHING that could be put on the car from the factory, 7AT, touring with nav and Bose, sport, plus floor and trunk Z mats and splash guards.