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is this right?!

So I went to a nissan dealership today... A 2012 Touring Gun Metallic, with sprt package, and navigation package.. the guy told me he can do invoice which is 38,000.

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Old 01-19-2012, 08:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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So I went to a nissan dealership today...

A 2012 Touring Gun Metallic, with sprt package, and navigation package.. the guy told me he can do invoice which is 38,000. Then he told me after title and taxes, it would be 45,000.... I told him I would put 8000 down, And he told me It would be 670 for 72 months.. Personally I'm looking to pay for only 60 months, but within the 600 range. But is this acceptable price? I've looked at some other people's posts about what they payed OTD. And mine seems nothing close to it..
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That just does not sound right. On truecar.com it's saying factory invoice is 40k.
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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7k for title and taxes is too much
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Unless you live somewhere that has nearly a 20% sales tax, I smell a rat.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by f00d4tehg0dz View Post
So I went to a nissan dealership today...

A 2012 Touring Gun Metallic, with sprt package, and navigation package.. the guy told me he can do invoice which is 38,000. Then he told me after title and taxes, it would be 45,000.... I told him I would put 8000 down, And he told me It would be 670 for 72 months.. Personally I'm looking to pay for only 60 months, but within the 600 range. But is this acceptable price? I've looked at some other people's posts about what they payed OTD. And mine seems nothing close to it..
Don't make your purchase decision based on monthly payment. You want to end at the lowest total cost possible.

Are you financing through the dealership? Sounds like it since you talked to them about a down payment. I'd try to see what kind of rates you can get with outside financing. If you come pre-financed you're in a much better position to negotiate. You know how much you want to pay total (and as a result you know how much you'll be paying monthly) and you can work it out that way. Dealers love it if they can try to sell you based on monthly payment... makes it easy to screw you over in total cost.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Don't make your purchase decision based on monthly payment. You want to end at the lowest total cost possible.
.
Gotcha. The guy was telling me he was willing to work with me and workout a deal, but I was already getting annoyed with him. Especially since he took an invoice pricing of 38,000 and magically made it 45000.

So you're saying find an outside source and apply for a loan? I saw that sticky on here to use Pentagon Federal. But from what I understand I HAVE to be in the military.....
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You don't HAVE to be a military member to get a loan through PenFed IIRC. I think you can donate around $20 to a military family association and become eligible. You'll have to check on the website to be sure.

But yes, you should apply for outside financing and see what kind of rate you can get. Then all you need to do at the dealership is negotiate your out the door price. Once you agree on the price you can see if they can beat the financing deal you already have... if they can... great! If not, then you're already financed so there's no worry.
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Old 01-20-2012, 07:55 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Definately shop around for financing. You can alos use thaat to negotiate with the dealership. I recently talked a dealer down from >3.0% financing to 1.9% and I've heard of others getting better than that. It's all part of the game, not only the price is negotiable. You can negotiate the rate, service, extended warranties...every little bit. Know what the dealer has into the car before, if you don't you are going in blind. There are web sites out there to help find this info, in the past I've used consumer reports but truecar.com seems to be easier and costs less.

BTW - The salesperson and their managers should not be happy with you when you leave if you've gotten the best deal you can (you are not there to make friends).
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Alright. I appreciate all this advice! I'll def try PenFed
Agree'd Canes7. The salesman was very pushy, and I'm a bit disappointed though. I was thinking of doing a lease. But he told me because I have no previous finance I can't lease..... even though I have EXCELLENT Credit.

I really want to get a Touring with NAV (if thats all i CAN GET) for 600 a month. With 9-11k downpayment. Preferably with a 60 month payment plan. I've seen people on here get that. So I think I just had a bad experience there.

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Old 01-20-2012, 10:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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definitely get the sport package.
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Alright. I appreciate all this advice! I'll def try PenFed
Agree'd Canes7. The salesman was very pushy, and I'm a bit disappointed though. I was thinking of doing a lease. But he told me because I have no previous finance I can't lease..... even though I have EXCELLENT Credit.

I really want to get a Touring with NAV (if thats all i CAN GET) for 600 a month. Preferably with a 60 month payment plan. I've seen people on here get that. So I think I just had a bad experience there.
So what you need to do is find the following:

Invoice price of the car you're looking at
Dealership fees (usually a few hundred bucks at least)
State sales tax and titling fees

Now, usually you can get a Z for well under invoice. The best way to negotiate, however, is going to be via out the door (OTD) price. This includes the price of the car, the dealer fees, and tax and title fees. This will be the total amount that you are financing. It's the number you want to control.

What you need to do ahead of time is determine a fair price for the car to you (I'd start somewhere like $1,000 UNDER invoice) then add the dealer fees (you can tweak these too if you want since everything is negotiable) then add in tax/title. Come up with a total OTD price you're willing to pay. Negotiate based on that. The dealer's finance department can fudge the numbers however they want from there internally, but you'll have control of the total price YOU end up paying.

So, obviously when you apply for financing you should apply for the highest OTD you're willing to pay less the cash you're going to put down.

Do your research and come prepared and ready to fight... this way you won't get screwed.
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:11 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Oh, and you remember you can always walk. And if you can't get a local deal we have a lot of supporting dealers here that can get you into a Z you want without any bull$hit. You just might have to travel a bit to pick it up.
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:35 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Gotcha. I forgot to mention how much I'm willing to put down. Edited that post. But anyway.
I' looked at truecar and got an idea of the price w.out OTD pricing. And was blown away by the salesguy telling me these numbers way above what truecar had told me.
I'll have to keep that in mind, to negotiate with OTD, not invoice pricing. I think that was my first mistake last night.
Def will keep all this in mind. Thanks alot!
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:37 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Gotcha. I forgot to mention how much I'm willing to put down. Edited that post. But anyway.
I' looked at truecar and got an idea of the price w.out OTD pricing. And was blown away by the salesguy telling me these numbers way above what truecar had told me.
I'll have to keep that in mind, to negotiate with OTD, not invoice pricing. I think that was my first mistake last night.
Def will keep all this in mind. Thanks alot!
No problem.

When I bought my Z their first offer was $42,000 not including fees or tax/title/license.

I bought it for $37k OTD, which was $1,000 under invoice.
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Old 01-20-2012, 12:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yes. Don;t forget to walk away at least once. There are always other dealerships. Good advice from M4A1.
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