Pricing questions!

khemera777

Hello guys. I am new here. I am looking to buy the 370z right now. I was wondering if you guys could let me know what price you paid and/or what I should be paying for these:

1. New 2012 370z, touring + sports package, nav, leather, etc... pretty much loaded

2. New 2011 370z, same specs as (1)

3. Used 2010 like these,

Cars for Sale: 2010 Nissan 370Z in Memphis, TN 38115: Coupe Details - 309774449 - AutoTrader.com

or

Cars for Sale: 2010 Nissan 370Z in Spring, TX 77388: Coupe Details - 309448285 - AutoTrader.com

p.s. Can you install factory backup camera to the nav of 2010 370z?

Thanks, guys!

bvl

Those 2010's seem decently priced for what they are. NAV can be hard to find. Both of those are autos...but both *lack* sports package. Fairly loaded, but not fully loaded. I would of course negotiate down a bit.

- b

khemera777

So, it seems I couldn't get the options I want for the 2011 or 2012 unless I do factory order which would take 3 months. I think I am going for the used 2010 one from memphis. They wanted me to offer them a price but I don't know where to start. Can you guys recommend something I should be shooting for with this one, Cars for Sale: 2010 Nissan 370Z in Memphis, TN 38115: Coupe Details - 309774449 - AutoTrader.com.

nmjaxx9

I would start with 31,000 if you can get it for around the price its at now Out the door it would be a solid deal.

khemera777

Ok. So I changed my mind last night and went into a dealer this afternoon looking for the 2012 touring with

- Automatic
- Sports package
- Navigation package
- Carpeted floor mats,
- Splash guards,
- LED daytime running lights
- Illuminated kick plates

They quoted $43,000. After I mentioned that someone else had gotten the same car with the same options for around $39,000 (someone on here mentioned they did that in one of the threads), they said I better go find one at that place where the person got it from. Then, they go onto Edmunds (after refusing to go onto truecar) and try to show me what they claim to be "true value." After talking to their manager, they came back with $1500 over invoice. This is factory order, btw.

Someone on here said he/she had gotten pretty much the same car for $39,xxx. I wasn't sure if it was OTD price or not and if he/she had gotten it from off their lot or factory order. Also, some people have mentioned the least is getting it at invoice. Does that below invoice or at least at invoice thing go with factory order as well?

So, the question is do you think the $1500 over the invoice is a good buy (factory order) or I can get it for around invoice or better below?

p.s. the salesperson asked me how are they gonna make money if they sell at invoice. How do they make money if they sell at or below invoice?

Thanks!

bvl

Invoice is not *true* invoice. It really depends on the volume and other factors. You can do your own research on the Net to find out the skinny on other ways dealers are making money.

It is a business and yes they do need to make a living. In general if its a volume based dealership, 500-1000 over invoice is a fair place to be at IMHO for them to make sufficient money and survive. Why? Because plenty of dealers do just that and they are in business successfully.

I would go in at 500 over invoice for an order: all they need to do is hit a few buttons. There is no lost cost having car on the lot, etc... and see where that goes. On a 40K purchase, sliding up 250 more isn't going to kill you either. This isn't a 20K Accord in high volume where 250 is important as they sell dozens of them a month.

Getting cars for under invoice typically means there is a some sort of MFG incentive going on, or the car has sat on the lot and they need to unload it for its costing them too much to hold it.

You will not see that pricing on a new car...so get used to the idea of paying at least 500 over invoice if you want to order a 2012.

- b

zeddreaming

khemera check you pm

nmjaxx9

I agree with bvl.

Also, most dealers won't accept an offer if you just tell them that someone else got this price, so I should be getting the same. In most cases a written quote is necessary in order for them to even take it into consideration, and even then its not always guaranteed that you will get it at that price.

Now, as for the price, as it is a 2012, you have less bargaining power, as it is new. So paying 1500 over invoice is not unreasonable. Also keep in mind that invoice price is what the dealer paid/or is going to pay for the car, so trying to get them to sell the car under invoice, especially a new 2012 is going to be near impossible, as they are trying to make a profit. Sometimes cars do sell under invoice for different factors such as the dealers trying to meet their quota or the car has been sitting for a while. However, it doesn't seem like either is true in this case. So, I would suggest to shop around more, maybe you can find a new 2011 with the same options for a couple thousand less. If not, I suggest trying to offer a little bit above invoice like bvl mentioned and see what happens there.

Gasdoc

I just ordered up #1 above (2012 370z touring, w/ nav and sports, 6MT, carpeted mats, lighted kick plates) in October and got it for invoice + 1%. I got that deal over the phone before I even went to the dealer. I basically called them, told them what I wanted and offered them 1% over and the salesman said they could do that. When I got there, he had the paperwork with pricing ready. I looked it over and the only surprise was a $100 advertising fee that was tacked on. I asked him about it and he said they'd waive it. I got the price quote in writing, gave them a deposit and that was it. Still waiting on the car though..........

khemera777

Thanks for the inputs, guys. I already called up a couple of dealers around where I live and asked them for the car and options I wanted in 2011 but they said, no such car with the options I wanted exist so I have to order a new one if I wanted all those options.

So the next step is should I call up a few dealers and see what they can do (using invoice as the basis) or just go ahead and try what Gasdoc did with the 1%+ invoice straight up offer?

p.s. Is there any way to find out online exactly what the invoice for the car with selected options is?

Gasdoc

I used Edmunds.com. I think there are other sites as well, but Edmunds was right on the money. When the dealer came out with his itemized price quote it was exactly the same as Edmunds. Also, Edmunds has another column on their sheet showing "what others are paying". Invoice + 1% beat that price, so I was happy. I have read that some people have done better than that and even some have gotten below invoice prices, but I'm not going to complain. I was in and out in about 30-40 min.

Jsolo

I just went through this when ordering my G few months ago.

At the time, 2012 invoice prices were just starting to circulate, and no incentives were available other than the low % financing.

After much deliberation, we negotiated my price to be exactly at invoice + ttl. When the car finally arrived, infiniti was offering $1500 dealer cash back (in addition to a $817 hold back according to truecar). During my original order, a line to the effect of "cust will receive all available customer incentives at time of delivery" was written and signed off by the salesmgr.

Few days prior to taking delivery, I spoke with my salesperson and mentioned this cashback incentive. Now, they could of been complete @ssholes and not apply any of it towards my purchase, instead, the salesmgr agreed to split it 50/50 (sort of). In the end, infiniti tacked on a $125 fee for "Warranty Supplemental Expense charge" onto the invoice (which they showed me). Not sure how legit it is, but either way, the price came out to be $470 less than what we originally agreed upon back when the order was placed.

Some things to be aware of; If they provide you with a signed sales order, do the math yourself to make sure the numbers add up correctly. That is, if you agree on a price + ttl, make sure that the final price is indeed agreed price + ttl. Tax, title & license does NOT include a doc charge. In my case, they snuck the doc fee in. It was printed on the sales order, but the final bottom line total did not reflect it. I didn't verify the math, so I assumed (!!!!!) it was included in the final price. At delivery, since they partially applied the dealer cash, it was difficult to argue the doc fee.

Also, if you do have them print language about including incentives/rebates, make absolutely sure to specify customer incentives as well as dealer incentives. Again, on my sales order they printed the verbiage from the paragraph above. In hindsight, I would of had them print something like "all cust incentives/rebates and at least 50% dealer incentives" (assuming they'd agree to that).

With the complex electronics in this car, I chose to have the peace of mind and got the extended warranty too. Prior to delivery, I had shopped around and found a few dealers selling them at $100 over cost. Discussed this with my sales person and told 'em if they match that I'll get it from them, otherwise I can just as easily get it elsewhere. The benefit of buying it at purchase time was that it was rolled into my financing (so yes, it's actually going to cost me more over the course of the loan, but I don't have to pay for it all at once upfront) - about $125 more over 6 years.

Finally, the best suggestion I can offer is this. Do your research, come up with a reasonable number that is good for you, and permits the dealer to make $500-1000 on the sale after their holdbacks and dealer cash type incentives (though keep in mind, they still make more $$ through other bonuses such as meeting certain quota, etc..), then start calling dealers, when the receptionist picks up, ask to speak with the sales manager directly. Tell him/her that you're ready to buy right now, this is what you want, this is your price+TTL. If they start haggling, provide them your name and number and tell them to call you back when they're ready to sell. Using this method puts you in control and the ball in their court. They have one opportunity to earn your business since they know they're not the only ones you're calling.

Good luck.


Edit: Also, if you want, negotiate any other free addons. I got them to include a synthetic oil change (also documented and signed by the salesmgr on the sales order). At delivery time, I chose to take the parts with me since I'll be doing my own oil changes. They were going to give me 6 qts of mobil1, instead I insisted on nissan ester oil.

Edit2: I notice the OP is also from chicago.... Stay as far away from star nissan as possible... Very slimy people there.

khemera777

Jsolo, thanks for the great info, dude. I am not clear about the doc fee sneaking in part. Are you saying on top of the agreed price for the car and the ttl, they added the doc fee into the bottom line price printed on the sales doc and you failed to catch that, resulting in the jacked up bottom line price at the amount of the doc fee?

Jsolo

For whatever reason, their software did not add in the doc and a county fee into the grand total price on the original sales order. I assumed it did when comparing their price against another dealer's. This made their offer look better (actually, it was by a small amount, even after the doc & county fee). Obviously the final paperwork of course included any omitted amounts. Original sales order = order estimate apparently.

What made my transaction complicated was my trade in. They took possession of it at the time of sales order signing, so in essence, I was locked to them. Why did I do this you ask. The trade in was only several months old, (2011), so to minimize the loss I'd be taking on it, I had to unload it as quickly as possible. Selling it private party would of netted roughly the same price as the trade when you figure in the tax credit. The hassles of possibly getting a few more hundred dollars via private sale were just not worth it.

I consider this a very valuable learning experience, thus the reason for the lengthy post above. Hopefully others can learn from my mistake.