What should I offer for a 2011 base sport 6spd in cash

Aizen Sosuke

Hey guys. What should I offer and hope to pay in cash for a 2011 base model 6spd with the sport package? Does it make sense to wait about 5 months and buy it cash or finance it now with about a 20K down payment?
Thanks guys

nmjaxx9

You should be looking for something in the 36-38k range new 2011, with room for negotiation obviously, if you get a good fiance rate and affordable monthly payments I would say finance, if you have the money and ready to buy I would go ahead and buy it, waiting 5 months you can only hope to see 2012 models, so unless you are waiting for a 2012, offering cash and buying str8 out seems like the way to go.

NCSUPACK09

I hope you misread his post...he is looking for a base + sport.

OP, I would say you should look to pay somewhere between 31.5-33k (depending on how good of a negotiator you are). I dont think it really makes a big difference if you are coming in with all cash or financing 11.5-13k. Obviously if you wait until the end of the year to buy, you are more likely to get a better deal.

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Anarky

I would start at least 2k below invoice. If you do a search you will find a break down on everything with msrp & invoice. Good luck

nmjaxx9

Uhh no i read it right, mine was a base and it started at 33, 36 by the time I was out the door with it, so there is no way u can get a NEW 2011 with base and sports for 31 to 33k good luck with that

NCSUPACK09

Ahhh OK, I was talking sales price and you are talking OTD price.

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UNKNOWN_370

The best way to do it is. Finance first. So you can get an invoice price or below. Put no money down. Makes sure who you finance with you don't get penalized for paying the car off. Make your finance for 72months. Then pay it off on the first payment. Reason being. If they see you coming in to pay cash right off. They will jerk you and make you pay msrp +ttl and trumped up fees. But when they finance, they work those fees in on a month to month basis and your payoff doesn't reflect anything but the amount you financed...
Then pay it off and you get them on the deal.

Aizen Sosuke

I am not planning on revealing my method of paying for the car until I have worked out a price plus tax, tag and title. I don't think there is gonna be any jerking around, otherwise i'd just walk out the door as soon as something feels iffy. Anyways I'll offer 30K for it in December when I get the money together and won't really pay a dime over 31K plus tttl. I see it doesn't make much of a difference in the price whether you pay cash or finance half the price. However I think I will wait cause if it is cash then the insurance rate would be a bit lower.

UNKNOWN_370

True, you shouldn't have to reveal your method of payment. Some dealers get really adiment about knowing before they try to deal. Especially down here. The only bad part about waiting is... if you want a 11 base sport in dec??? Good luck. That inventory is already running low. I just bought one of the last base+sport 7at's in my region today. And 6mt's are going fast as well. I do see plenty of touring sports available. But you are looking at around $40k out the door. If I were you id try to order a 2012 with a 2011 invoice price. That way, you can have your cake and eat it too.

I just noticed you're in miami. Inventory is not very good in fl. Cali, Az, NM still has a great inventory selection. The rest of the country is pretty shoddy. I hadda fight for my car. It wasn't easy getting my car and deal. Haggling on the Z is one of the worst cars to try to haggle. Dealers are stubborn with this car. It takes a lot of negotiation. Good luck.

m4a1mustang

This doesn't really make sense.

If you are pre-approved financing from an outside institution (i.e. not the Dealership's credit arm) or paying with straight up cash, they don't care. It's all the same to them.

How you are paying is not a concern to the dealer until you have agreed on a price and you go back to the finance manager's office to pay for it.

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UNKNOWN_370

And where did you get that info from? Banks and dealers have a very cozy relationship. Show me a major dealership that isn't wired into at least 90% of the banking industry? How you pay matters more than you think.
Anyway I'm not going to make this another 370z forum hashout "Mr. Mustang" Its just advice from info I have obtained over the years. I'm just trying to help. Advice can be taken or left behind.

m4a1mustang

I don't know why you think this is going to turn into a forum hashout or feel the need to call me "Mr Mustang." Bitter, much?

You stated that the dealer will try to make you pay a higher price if they know you are paying cash. I want to know how this makes any sense.

First of all, method of payment is usually discussed after you agree on price, so the dealer would never think "well, this guy is paying cash so I'm not going to budge on my pricing as much as if he were financing with us." The fact is, all dealers will try not to budge on price as much as possible. They want to maintain as high of a profit margin as they can on the sale, regardless of how the customer is paying.

Second, dealerships that offer financing usually do it in one of three ways:

1) They offer financing through their own independent financing company (large dealership networks sometimes have their own financing arms)

2) They offer financing through each individual manufacturer's financing arm (i.e. Ford Credit).

3) They are partnered with local financial institutions to offer financing.

In scenario 1, the dealership network assumes all of the risk of the loan through it's financing arm. They stand to lose money if the customer fails to make his payments.

In scenarios 2 and 3, the dealership is paid up front, just as if the customer was paying in cash (either with cash or with a loan from an outside institution). So terms of the loan do not matter to them in a situation like this, unless there are some kickback schemes where the financing arm pays the dealership a "finders fee" or a trail on the business.

But really, when does a dealership NOT have an incentive to charge you as much as humanly possible for a car? Regardless of how you are paying for it, they want as much as you can get.

If anything, Options 2 and 3 are best for the dealer because they could snooker an uneducated consumer into buying based on monthly payment amounts and not total costs.

If you are smart and negotiate pricing BEFORE you even discuss payment, you have the upper hand. I didn't come here for a fight (like you always assume ), I just want an honest discussion and an explanation from you on why the form of payment matters. Maybe there is something I haven't considered that you could fill me in on.

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osbornsm

Look it up in the prices thread
Out-the-Door prices Thread

dawudih

$30k all day long in houston, +ttl.

m4a1mustang

You should be able to get the car for at least $1,000 under invoice.

Remember, you want to negotiate based on OTD (out the door) pricing. So factor in the additional fees (dealer processing fee, manufacturer freight charge, and sales tax) and calculate a total price and work with that.

With regard to paying cash or financing now... $20k cash down on a 370 is plenty, so if you want it now there's nothing wrong with financing the remainder as long as you get a favorable rate. Make sure you have financing in hand before you go to the dealer.

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