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What should I offer for a 2011 base sport 6spd in cash

Hey guys. What should I offer and hope to pay in cash for a 2011 base model 6spd with the sport package? Does it make sense to wait about 5

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Old 09-06-2011, 11:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default What should I offer for a 2011 base sport 6spd in cash

Hey guys. What should I offer and hope to pay in cash for a 2011 base model 6spd with the sport package? Does it make sense to wait about 5 months and buy it cash or finance it now with about a 20K down payment?
Thanks guys
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You should be looking for something in the 36-38k range new 2011, with room for negotiation obviously, if you get a good fiance rate and affordable monthly payments I would say finance, if you have the money and ready to buy I would go ahead and buy it, waiting 5 months you can only hope to see 2012 models, so unless you are waiting for a 2012, offering cash and buying str8 out seems like the way to go.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You should be looking for something in the 36-38k range new 2011, with room for negotiation obviously, if you get a good fiance rate and affordable monthly payments I would say finance, if you have the money and ready to buy I would go ahead and buy it, waiting 5 months you can only hope to see 2012 models, so unless you are waiting for a 2012, offering cash and buying str8 out seems like the way to go.
I hope you misread his post...he is looking for a base + sport.

OP, I would say you should look to pay somewhere between 31.5-33k (depending on how good of a negotiator you are). I dont think it really makes a big difference if you are coming in with all cash or financing 11.5-13k. Obviously if you wait until the end of the year to buy, you are more likely to get a better deal.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would start at least 2k below invoice. If you do a search you will find a break down on everything with msrp & invoice. Good luck
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The best way to do it is. Finance first. So you can get an invoice price or below. Put no money down. Makes sure who you finance with you don't get penalized for paying the car off. Make your finance for 72months. Then pay it off on the first payment. Reason being. If they see you coming in to pay cash right off. They will jerk you and make you pay msrp +ttl and trumped up fees. But when they finance, they work those fees in on a month to month basis and your payoff doesn't reflect anything but the amount you financed...
Then pay it off and you get them on the deal.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I hope you misread his post...he is looking for a base + sport.

OP, I would say you should look to pay somewhere between 31.5-33k (depending on how good of a negotiator you are). I dont think it really makes a big difference if you are coming in with all cash or financing 11.5-13k. Obviously if you wait until the end of the year to buy, you are more likely to get a better deal.
Uhh no i read it right, mine was a base and it started at 33, 36 by the time I was out the door with it, so there is no way u can get a NEW 2011 with base and sports for 31 to 33k good luck with that
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:05 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Hey guys. What should I offer and hope to pay in cash for a 2011 base model 6spd with the sport package? Does it make sense to wait about 5 months and buy it cash or finance it now with about a 20K down payment?
Thanks guys
Look it up in the prices thread
Out-the-Door prices Thread
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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$30k all day long in houston, +ttl.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hey guys. What should I offer and hope to pay in cash for a 2011 base model 6spd with the sport package? Does it make sense to wait about 5 months and buy it cash or finance it now with about a 20K down payment?
Thanks guys
You should be able to get the car for at least $1,000 under invoice.

Remember, you want to negotiate based on OTD (out the door) pricing. So factor in the additional fees (dealer processing fee, manufacturer freight charge, and sales tax) and calculate a total price and work with that.

With regard to paying cash or financing now... $20k cash down on a 370 is plenty, so if you want it now there's nothing wrong with financing the remainder as long as you get a favorable rate. Make sure you have financing in hand before you go to the dealer.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:20 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by UNKNOWN_370 View Post
The best way to do it is. Finance first. So you can get an invoice price or below. Put no money down. Makes sure who you finance with you don't get penalized for paying the car off. Make your finance for 72months. Then pay it off on the first payment. Reason being. If they see you coming in to pay cash right off. They will jerk you and make you pay msrp +ttl and trumped up fees. But when they finance, they work those fees in on a month to month basis and your payoff doesn't reflect anything but the amount you financed...
Then pay it off and you get them on the deal.
I am not planning on revealing my method of paying for the car until I have worked out a price plus tax, tag and title. I don't think there is gonna be any jerking around, otherwise i'd just walk out the door as soon as something feels iffy. Anyways I'll offer 30K for it in December when I get the money together and won't really pay a dime over 31K plus tttl. I see it doesn't make much of a difference in the price whether you pay cash or finance half the price. However I think I will wait cause if it is cash then the insurance rate would be a bit lower.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:23 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by UNKNOWN_370 View Post
The best way to do it is. Finance first. So you can get an invoice price or below. Put no money down. Makes sure who you finance with you don't get penalized for paying the car off. Make your finance for 72months. Then pay it off on the first payment. Reason being. If they see you coming in to pay cash right off. They will jerk you and make you pay msrp +ttl and trumped up fees. But when they finance, they work those fees in on a month to month basis and your payoff doesn't reflect anything but the amount you financed...
Then pay it off and you get them on the deal.
This doesn't really make sense.

If you are pre-approved financing from an outside institution (i.e. not the Dealership's credit arm) or paying with straight up cash, they don't care. It's all the same to them.

How you are paying is not a concern to the dealer until you have agreed on a price and you go back to the finance manager's office to pay for it.
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:05 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The OTD price is going to vary from forum members here because some negotiate better than others, dealer situation, and location. The invoice price for Base+Sprt is about 33k TTL and other fees not included. Some have gotten as low as 31K OTD and as highest 36K. I live in San Diego, and the dealers here didn't budge no matter what I tried. I paid on the higher end, then again I got mine in 09. I agree, dealers don't care if you pay cash or finance, one way or the other they're going get their money. And I'm sure they have lil tricks to handle both situations in their favor. Good luck!
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Uhh no i read it right, mine was a base and it started at 33, 36 by the time I was out the door with it, so there is no way u can get a NEW 2011 with base and sports for 31 to 33k good luck with that
Ahhh OK, I was talking sales price and you are talking OTD price.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:40 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I am not planning on revealing my method of paying for the car until I have worked out a price plus tax, tag and title. I don't think there is gonna be any jerking around, otherwise i'd just walk out the door as soon as something feels iffy. Anyways I'll offer 30K for it in December when I get the money together and won't really pay a dime over 31K plus tttl. I see it doesn't make much of a difference in the price whether you pay cash or finance half the price. However I think I will wait cause if it is cash then the insurance rate would be a bit lower.
True, you shouldn't have to reveal your method of payment. Some dealers get really adiment about knowing before they try to deal. Especially down here. The only bad part about waiting is... if you want a 11 base sport in dec??? Good luck. That inventory is already running low. I just bought one of the last base+sport 7at's in my region today. And 6mt's are going fast as well. I do see plenty of touring sports available. But you are looking at around $40k out the door. If I were you id try to order a 2012 with a 2011 invoice price. That way, you can have your cake and eat it too.

I just noticed you're in miami. Inventory is not very good in fl. Cali, Az, NM still has a great inventory selection. The rest of the country is pretty shoddy. I hadda fight for my car. It wasn't easy getting my car and deal. Haggling on the Z is one of the worst cars to try to haggle. Dealers are stubborn with this car. It takes a lot of negotiation. Good luck.

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Old 09-14-2011, 01:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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This doesn't really make sense.

If you are pre-approved financing from an outside institution (i.e. not the Dealership's credit arm) or paying with straight up cash, they don't care. It's all the same to them.

How you are paying is not a concern to the dealer until you have agreed on a price and you go back to the finance manager's office to pay for it.
And where did you get that info from? Banks and dealers have a very cozy relationship. Show me a major dealership that isn't wired into at least 90% of the banking industry? How you pay matters more than you think.
Anyway I'm not going to make this another 370z forum hashout "Mr. Mustang" Its just advice from info I have obtained over the years. I'm just trying to help. Advice can be taken or left behind.
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