ECU reset
 

Anyone know what page of the manual this is on? I know all you do is unhook and re hook the negative terminal on the battery but I need to know what things I need to reset after that (windows auto up down etc)

Not sure what page it's on - or if it's even in there. As far as I know, the window auto function and the radio presets are all that you need to worry about. And newer models don't require the window reset.

Edit: You can expedite the process by pressing on the brake pedal for a few seconds (or put some other load on the electrical system).

I disconnected the battery on my 2013 while installing my intakes. I did not have to do anything afterwards. Just plugged the car back in and went off. It was unplugged for about 3 hours also. Perhaps I got lucky.


Otherwise, the DIY section of this forum probably has your answer. There's a lot of great threads there.

I believe disconnecting the negative terminal will reset it. Dunno if you have to wait a certain amount of time or not.

Disconnecting either terminal will do it, but ... if you are removing the - side and short your wrench to any point but the + terminal, you're OK; if you ground out the + side, you can damage the electronics and battery (not to mention a nice shower of sparks). Electrically it doesn't matter - safety wise it does.

The ECU has something (probably a capacitor) that will maintain memory for a few seconds to minutes if all power is lost. Putting a load on the electrical system (eg, turning on the brake lights) will drain the reserve almost immediately and clear memory. You can accomplish the same thing with a 1 Megohm resistor, but it's a lot easier to just push the brake pedal for a few seconds.

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Yea I've seen that one, its like putting in a freaking cheat code for a video game

I follow this
Easy Way to Reset ECU without battery disconnect in G37 - YouTube
Go w/ the video and it'll work every time.

:icon18::iagree:

I bought a $20 obd2 reader lol

I might try to do this this weekend. Should it really make a difference in the the car if I have a few mods( CBE and k&n filters)? I haven't done anything with the CPU as far as resetting or a tune yet. I don't really need a tune anyways just having a CBE and the drop in filters.

FYI pepboys will clear ur code, so will autozone for free (I know in CA they don't allow to rent the obd2 reader for free anymore) I think in ur state they still allow it.

they make you buy it and then return it then they walk outside reset and go back in and refund your CC. :rolleyes:

Still having Trouble
 

I did the reset with an analog watch three times. The lights cleared and stayed off for a few seconds and came right back on. (I had installed the K&N cold air intakes. ) What next!!!!!!!
Chuck

just wondering, will this procedure clear/reset the way your car learn how you drive?

I'm pretty sure (but not positive) that it does but it only takes a little while for it to relearn. The ECM is constantly adjusting the how-I've-been-driving params, so you won't really lose anything.

Be aware the the ECM will also forget engine tuning params. The engine will run a little rough until it relearns. This doesn't take very long.

Details of what happens during the reset procedure should be in the FSM (link in my sig).

PS: The emissions system readiness will probably be reset also (see FSM to verify). This takes several drive cycles to show ready. Shouldn't be a problem unless you have a smog check done very soon after the reset.

PPS: The FSM is your friend. Download a copy and keep it handy.

?????
 

You could use a tune but a new ECM is not necessary.

I have the same aftermarket items as you (less headers) and while there is an improvement in all aspects of the car (acceleration, fuel economy, butt dyno, sound, etc), I know that there is a little bit left to squeeze out of these add-ons. In the few times that I tracked the car last year, it seems that the engine has a little bit more to give, especially at the top end.

This is one of the reasons that I am finally going to be getting my car tuned at Dynosty in a few weeks. Even though I love the way the car drives, I've been told that there will be a big difference in throttle response, and should eak some more HP/TQ out of the VQ.

If you are finished adding on to the car, I would recommend getting it tuned to get the most out of what you have. I'll know the results in a few weeks on the way to ZdayZ.

Keep us posted as to what you end up doing...