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Originally Posted by MightyBobo If you think mods are more important than driver skill, that may explain why you had so many wrecks on your bikes. Obviously you never tracked
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#1 (permalink) |
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Obviously you never tracked a motorcycle. With cars, pushing it to the limit, you'll have a spin out, and hopefully you don't hit anything. On 2 wheels, pushing to the limit, and losing traction can mean highside/lowside. All of my high side came late in the day, when my focus wasn't as good, and the track temperature was up, and the grip was low. If you never lost traction, that means you never pushed it to the limit. Why are you busting my balls anyway? You don't know me, and they say if you got nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Your comment doesn't help any bit, and is not necessary.
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#2 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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And I'm giving you a hard time because I give everyone a hard time. Don't take it personally :-p. I'm impressed that you tracked your bike, I have no urge to track mine.
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I don't own a car anymore. Last edited by MightyBobo; 01-21-2015 at 11:50 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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No problem. I was above average, usually rode with the Expert group (my track days were split into expert, intermediate & beginner). Of course all of the wrecks are because of the driver errors. Everyone makes errors when they're pushing. Like I mentioned, if you're not wrecking, you're not pushing. And since I have a career, I couldn't afford to keep pushing. If I was getting paid to do it, it'd be a different story :-) Though the 4 wheel track days and motorcycle track days are completely different animals, at least I understand the concept of the lines & apex, and I'm hoping it helps. I wanted to ride way too fast for the streets, so I had to ride on the track, but it may have ruined me. I rode motorcycles all my life, and hung it all up 2 years ago. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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suspension front back + front sway-bar rear not needed, brakes, LSD + bushings, exhaust HKS, OS Giken clutch kit n CSC, oil cooler, SPL all kit around and last but no least Volk wheels 255/35/19(20) front (305) 295/30/19(20) rear and toyo racing tiers, GL OP
PS almost forgot the CJ Motorsports fuel starve fix. n brake cooling kit from Stillen.
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#5 (permalink) |
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2010 Nismo Solid Red
Found this in the for sale section. I would try to find one with mods on it already. Save you time and money.
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#7 (permalink) |
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In all honesty everything depends on what he wants to do with the car. If it's going to be a street driven and tracked for fun occasionally or if it is going to be a dedicated track car. Seat time is key but if it's not the main point of the car then maybe what he wants to do would be fine. No need for a shopping list, I agree with that comment, however one key needed component track or street driven is and oil cooler. That's a given. The rest is subjective and dependent on his goals.
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#8 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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That being said, the cheaper you can get on and off track, the better. That dude recommending Volks obviously has no clue what he's talking about, and yet, it's "advice" that could be taken seriously.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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I don't really have a goal. The car will be a weekend cruiser / occasional track day car. Nothing serious. Looks are important, too as it's supposed to be my "fun" car. Otherwise, I would've been looking at STis or EVOs lol You guys are right about the seat time, though. But I'm a "planning" kinda guy, so I thought I'd post on here and get some ideas. I like uniqueness in cars, so a body kit is a must for me. My daily driver is a Toyota Venza, so I need a bit of flashiness in my weekend car. If someone would've told me NISMO would be a better car to start with, I would look at it, but from what I gathered, NISMO isn't really any faster (traction problem?). I read somewhere that it comes with stickers saying you shouldn't use a car wash because the huge wing may get damaged? So, getting a used 370z touring model seems like a good start, especially I can find one several thousands cheaper than NISMOs. I thought about forking up the money for an used GT-R, but I like to have the clutch, even though GT-R's semi-automatic shifts faster than any human can. No other recommendation on the Nissan tuner other than the one in eastern Pa? |
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#10 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Careful with appearance stuff, as you may run into ground clearance issues on some tracks (Summit Point's Shenandoah Circuit has a carousel a la the Nurburgring, that you must drop into - that caused problems people w/ clearance issues...). NISMO is, indeed, a waste of money for the most part. If you're going to go appearance mod crazy anyway, dont waste your cash.
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#11 (permalink) | |
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#12 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#13 (permalink) |
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Well I don't necessarily agree with that either. You can have expensive parts that are no better than cheap parts- but you can also have cheap parts that explode on or even off track. I think it's best not to cheap out on safety items. Body stuff I could care less about. Rims depend. I had tsw and got flamed in my car club- however they are absolutely trackable and good wheels. And I've seen enkei wheels blow up! But sometimes you can find the good brands cheap too. Work emotions are decent and reasonably priced. I guess what I am saying is that cheaper doesn't always mean better and expensive is in the same boat. Research should be done before deciding on parts for sure.
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#14 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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We're agreeing here, trust me :-p
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