Originally Posted by MightyBobo If you think mods are more important than driver skill, that may explain why you had so many wrecks on your bikes. I don't think he
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01-18-2015, 12:36 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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I don't think he ever said mods were more Important than skill. Reread his post and understand what he's saying before you attack him with ignorant comments. Guys looking for advice,not criticism. Don't be an azzhat and contribute.
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01-18-2015, 12:49 PM | #17 (permalink) | |
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I'm glad he knows that suspension and whatnot is very important, but just look at the shopping list given just a couple posts back? This is what happens on this forum...
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01-18-2015, 12:54 PM | #19 (permalink) |
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In all honesty everything depends on what he wants to do with the car. If it's going to be a street driven and tracked for fun occasionally or if it is going to be a dedicated track car. Seat time is key but if it's not the main point of the car then maybe what he wants to do would be fine. No need for a shopping list, I agree with that comment, however one key needed component track or street driven is and oil cooler. That's a given. The rest is subjective and dependent on his goals.
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01-18-2015, 01:09 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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That being said, the cheaper you can get on and off track, the better. That dude recommending Volks obviously has no clue what he's talking about, and yet, it's "advice" that could be taken seriously.
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01-18-2015, 01:20 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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Well I don't necessarily agree with that either. You can have expensive parts that are no better than cheap parts- but you can also have cheap parts that explode on or even off track. I think it's best not to cheap out on safety items. Body stuff I could care less about. Rims depend. I had tsw and got flamed in my car club- however they are absolutely trackable and good wheels. And I've seen enkei wheels blow up! But sometimes you can find the good brands cheap too. Work emotions are decent and reasonably priced. I guess what I am saying is that cheaper doesn't always mean better and expensive is in the same boat. Research should be done before deciding on parts for sure.
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01-18-2015, 02:19 PM | #23 (permalink) | |
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We're agreeing here, trust me :-p
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01-21-2015, 08:59 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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Obviously you never tracked a motorcycle. With cars, pushing it to the limit, you'll have a spin out, and hopefully you don't hit anything. On 2 wheels, pushing to the limit, and losing traction can mean highside/lowside. All of my high side came late in the day, when my focus wasn't as good, and the track temperature was up, and the grip was low. If you never lost traction, that means you never pushed it to the limit. Why are you busting my balls anyway? You don't know me, and they say if you got nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Your comment doesn't help any bit, and is not necessary.
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01-21-2015, 09:17 AM | #26 (permalink) | |
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I don't really have a goal. The car will be a weekend cruiser / occasional track day car. Nothing serious. Looks are important, too as it's supposed to be my "fun" car. Otherwise, I would've been looking at STis or EVOs lol You guys are right about the seat time, though. But I'm a "planning" kinda guy, so I thought I'd post on here and get some ideas. I like uniqueness in cars, so a body kit is a must for me. My daily driver is a Toyota Venza, so I need a bit of flashiness in my weekend car. If someone would've told me NISMO would be a better car to start with, I would look at it, but from what I gathered, NISMO isn't really any faster (traction problem?). I read somewhere that it comes with stickers saying you shouldn't use a car wash because the huge wing may get damaged? So, getting a used 370z touring model seems like a good start, especially I can find one several thousands cheaper than NISMOs. I thought about forking up the money for an used GT-R, but I like to have the clutch, even though GT-R's semi-automatic shifts faster than any human can. No other recommendation on the Nissan tuner other than the one in eastern Pa? |
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01-21-2015, 09:56 AM | #27 (permalink) |
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NISMO is an expensive body kit. You'll probably change the suspension they come stock with. Forget a GTR. My husband is a nissan service writer... $6000 brake jobs.
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01-21-2015, 10:04 AM | #28 (permalink) |
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so theres a new Pittsburgh guy and no one informed me? lol
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01-21-2015, 10:24 AM | #29 (permalink) |
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You're young, you'll get over it.
This character is north of the burgh, I'm south of the burgh. Welcome to the forum. For tuning. I went with RT Tuning out east. Vince is top notch! Tracking. PittRace runs 3 groups. Group 1 for starting out with an instructor. Group 2 is with an instructor until he signs you off. Then you can do Group 2 Solo. These run in the morning. The first 25 who sign up run. Group 3 is in the afternoon. This is mostly for the race guys, instructors and the go fast crazies. The first 25 here too. The Z for you would be a Sport/Touring. It's got the big brakes on it, and the wider rims. you would need a Z1 34 row cooler, stainless lines, good brake fluid. Something like Motul 600. If you get a manual. Flush the clutch line too with Motul, and wrap insulation around the clutch line down by the exhaust. A good set of tires too. #1 RE11's, #2 PSS's. Do the mods as you pick up speed. And read my journal.
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01-21-2015, 10:28 AM | #30 (permalink) | |
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RT tuning and vince does great work from what I've heard and read .it's out by Philly. I got my tune done at AAM in Maryland. also does great work. if you're ever out and about and hear just a unreal super loud awesome blue Z......it's me
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