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Second Oil Analysis by Blackstone (with Nissan Ester)

So this quickly devolved into our 10001st oil thread as expected. Regarding diff types of oil synth vs Dino. If here talking about a dd car, even the z, IMO

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Old 01-03-2015, 08:56 PM   #61 (permalink)
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So this quickly devolved into our 10001st oil thread as expected.

Regarding diff types of oil synth vs Dino. If here talking about a dd car, even the z, IMO it doesn't matter and as long as you change the oil at regular intervals, you should be able to get 250k miles no problem assuming no manufacturing defects.

If you track, then that's when oil types, diff weights of oil etc start to matter IMO.
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Old 01-03-2015, 08:59 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by FL 4Motion View Post
So this quickly devolved into our 10001st oil thread as expected.

Regarding diff types of oil synth vs Dino. If here talking about a dd car, even the z, IMO it doesn't matter and as long as you change the oil at regular intervals, you should be able to get 250k miles no problem assuming no manufacturing defects.

If you track, then that's when oil types, diff weights of oil etc start to matter IMO.
250K ?

not 300~500K with best maintenance and oil change ??

just wonder
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Old 01-03-2015, 09:01 PM   #63 (permalink)
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250K ?

not 300~500K with best maintenance and oil change ??

just wonder



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Old 01-03-2015, 09:04 PM   #64 (permalink)
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stir the pot?

you mean that you diss.ent from my opinion ??

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Old 01-03-2015, 09:09 PM   #65 (permalink)
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stir the pot?

you mean that you diss.ent from my opinion ??
I'm sure those #s would be fine too in relation to the example I posted above.

Oh, and now ibtl.
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Old 01-06-2015, 12:43 AM   #66 (permalink)
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And I believe it. But do a compression test and dyno it. This is why motors lose power over time. I bet it's no where near stock.
I'm intetested in that engine compression test that one day I want to take it.

1) I saw a youtube about how to do the self engine compression test, but I don't think I can do that. Where can I get the test then?

2) How much usually it costs?, I mean the compression test.

3) Sometimes I feel like it showes a bit slower response on my full-acceleration than before. Do you think the test result can answer to that feeling? Even now I'm not sure whether it really goes slower or just it's by my subjective.

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Old 01-07-2015, 01:41 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Would Redline be better than Nissan's Ester?
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:35 AM   #68 (permalink)
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No no no, you need mobil 1.
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:28 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rajmangal7 View Post
Would Redline be better than Nissan's Ester?
Both being ester, no. Redline having more molybdenum, yes.
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Old 01-07-2015, 08:51 AM   #70 (permalink)
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I use Wesson oil myself, with just a drop or two of Virgin Olive oil. ONLY the Italian genuine Olive Oil, mind you.



J/K, I use PYB, it's Moly levels are thru the roof, and I change at 3-3.5K intervals. I'll never go to track, and 5K is the highest my car tach has seen, and that was "S Shift" thinking I was going to 3rd instead of 5th at highway speeds.
I enjoy oil discussions and none of us is ever smart enough to stop learning something once in a while, even about oil.
Only problem is sometimes the Mods have to close the thread because of bitter arguments erupting.
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Old 01-07-2015, 08:54 AM   #71 (permalink)
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and 5K is the highest my car tach has seen, and that was "S Shift" thinking I was going to 3rd instead of 5th at highway speeds.


Why? You have to rev this car to make power.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:34 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fountainhead View Post
I use Wesson oil myself, with just a drop or two of Virgin Olive oil. ONLY the Italian genuine Olive Oil, mind you.



J/K, I use PYB, it's Moly levels are thru the roof, and I change at 3-3.5K intervals. I'll never go to track, and 5K is the highest my car tach has seen, and that was "S Shift" thinking I was going to 3rd instead of 5th at highway speeds.
I enjoy oil discussions and none of us is ever smart enough to stop learning something once in a while, even about oil.
Only problem is sometimes the Mods have to close the thread because of bitter arguments erupting.
Nothing wrong with that logic at all....PYB is a very good product. I would suggest hitting 7K once in a while: the car wants it. It really does.

SN oils are blends these days: have to be to meet the specs. Its not regular 'dino' anymore...major improvements in lube industry over time, we benefit.

its very subjective (and often ignorant) to think/state with authority that one oil is 'better' then another. This often comes up with synthetics. Just because one blend may use more PAO or Esters does not make it better. They all are just different formulations (which are proprietary to the blender).

For example Redline can be very shear stable which is great in racing conditions, but has a much lighter add pack: so running it on the street means you need to change it more often. Does that sounds like a smart use of oil and money? Not when there are better add packs and shear stable products out there for the street at a lower cost

Folks do realize the total number Zs and other 3.7L VVT cars out there that get 3-5k stock dealer bulk 5/30 oil changes in them and are perfectly fine?

Myself, I have been trending my Z on BITOG.com in the UOA forum. Few others there too, some G37s if folks want to see just some examples.

I do it out out of pure geek factor/curiosity. The $20-30 spent on a UOA, if I was truly concerned, would be better served in just changing the oil more often.

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Old 01-07-2015, 07:17 PM   #73 (permalink)
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I had excellent Blackstone reports running Redline 5W-30 in my 2009 Z. However, the cost of the Redline went up quite a bit and I have been able to buy several 6 pack cartons of the Pennzoil Ultra (not the new Ultra Platinum) Euro Spec oil on Amazon.com for several dollars less per quart. It has performed comparably with the Redline in the Blackstone resports. Additionally, my consumption went down from about 1.25 quarts per 5000 miles to about a half quart between changes with the Ultra. Not sure why but I like it. The Nissan Ester oil is OK, but it needs to be about $6 per quart for what it is. You can do much better for the money.
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Old 01-07-2015, 07:22 PM   #74 (permalink)
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my UOA's seem to be much better....and mine sees a few track days/year using pennzoil ultra platinum
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Old 01-07-2015, 07:23 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Excellent post..... Thanks!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bvl View Post
SN oils are blends these days: have to be to meet the specs. Its not regular 'dino' anymore...major improvements in lube industry over time, we benefit.

its very subjective (and often ignorant) to think/state with authority that one oil is 'better' then another. This often comes up with synthetics. Just because one blend may use more PAO or Esters does not make it better. They all are just different formulations (which are proprietary to the blender).

For example Redline can be very shear stable which is great in racing conditions, but has a much lighter add pack: so running it on the street means you need to change it more often. Does that sounds like a smart use of oil and money? Not when there are better add packs and shear stable products out there for the street at a lower cost

Folks do realize the total number Zs and other 3.7L VVT cars out there that get 3-5k stock dealer bulk 5/30 oil changes in them and are perfectly fine?
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