Anything else for Hp gains?
 

Already did LTH, full CBE, CAI, and tune.... What else is out there to increase hp gains on a NA AT, not wanting FI. All I can think of is intake mani & pulley?!? Thank you in advance.

You could switch to E85 or play with methanol injection, other than that, not really.

The only other thing to try would be experimenting with the Jun cams and/or bigger TB's.

You're down to improving performance in other ways now -- stickier tires, dropping weight where you can, different final gear, etc.

Any dyno numbers on the JUN cams? I tried searching but couldn't find anything.

Weight reduction would be a good thing to do. See if you can lose an extra 200 pounds or so.

z1 2 piece rotors for dropping unsprung mass on the corners. Pulley, intake mani, 4.36 gear.

Sorry, even if you dont want FI, it is probably the best bang for your buck when it comes to power. Great tuning would help with longevity.

http://www.fftec.com/amass/images/in...y/291/6266.jpg

Are referring to the driver to loose weight? Lol

Hi Cell,

OP has already stated on his initial post that he doesn't consider FI which include turbo or supercharging.
But I do agree with you but not on longevity.

I just came upon this at Z1 website. I still wanting to know more about specific Hp gains with this mod.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine...es-p-7591.html

If taken care of I don't see why it wouldn't last. There are Z within our community with 50K miles on the turbo kit and still running very strong.

I guess 2 piece rotors, are what's next depending on the deal for Black Friday.....

I guess its relative to how you drive your Z but most people I know who went to FI they really push the car to its limits and have placed a lot of stress on their motor.
Unless you really change most of the internals of the motor to fit FI.

I mean it would not be so fun to have that huge purchase going FI if you dont drive the beast at redline right? Whats the point of doing FI if you normally drive it as a DD.
Sometimes I do understand to others its just a bragging rights to have one. No pun intended. I do not have any issues with that if anyone can afford it...why not go FI.

Trust me us force induction guys don't baby the car like that. We see redline probably more than the average n/a driver. Phunk is a perfect example from our community. 40k+ miles twin turbo with over 500whp and he beats his car. I believe he has pushed his car over 600 whp already and all on stock internals.

One of the boosted performance guys beat his single turbo car so hard I believe his clutch and flywheel welded together and his motor is still going.

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Do a Stillen pulley. It's a nice little gain & it seems like even more because the motor spins up a little quicker. It made a noticeable little improvement but not like night & day difference.

I guess you are right and I would believe you. The people I know who blew their motors I guess has something to do with the tuner. We really don't know what happen. He blew his engine at 65k miles at the odometer.

Nitrous?:driving: Not really forced induction, but more of a power adder. Not constant, just when you want it.

9 times out of 10, this is the reason. The other 1 time is someone didn't do their homework and cut corners somewhere.

Why are we talking FI I though that wasn't a consideration, people can discuss reliability of FI for hundreds of pages, but that's not the point here.

Cams, pulley, and a change to e85 would be the only real things left for NA top power. Manifold will increase power band in the mid rpms but not effect top. Very few (2 I think) have done cams, so you'll be mostly on your own with that upgrade.

If you're looking to go fast quickly there are three aspects not just power (often the most expensive aspect). Power, weight, and traction all make you go, too much or too little of one will mess the whole thing up.

Gears would be the next step. That's going to make a lot more of a difference than another 5-10whp from a manifold or a pulley.

Possibly. :rofl2:

In all honesty, look at shaving the weight where you can i.e rotors, flywheel, gut the trunk, lighter wheel/tire combo. The less weight you have will usually yield decent results in the power to weight ratio department.

You wont get much out of the manifold, except in the mid-high power curve.

Look into the gearing, especially since you don't have any plans for boost.

What type/ratio of gears should be good for our Z?

Anyone can chime in with Z1's daytona throttle body upgrade?

Cams, port & polish, more aggressive fuel system, lightened flywheel, better clutch than OEM, short shift kit, and stickers ;)

The 370 can be a mid to high 12 sec car with some work, and still be daily driven.

The OP has a 7AT

I've been looking at the underdrive pulley from Stillen. Gonna be on sale Sunday so possible.... Is there a better pulley besides Stillen?

All have been said.

Pulley
Lighter flywheel/clutch
Port everything including your heads, I can help with a few
Lighter wheels/tires
Gears
E85
Weight reduction

I'll be doing e85 soon even though some have already shown a good 10/10 increase.

So I did some research, looks like NST (non stop tuning) makes an UD pulley with an OD alt pulley. This looks like a better deal. Anyone know if they're having a blackfriday sale?

Ehhh technically nitrous induction is FI... and doing it right still means a tune that includes extra fueling, colder plugs, reduced timing potentially, etc.

Playing with different fuels and fuel mixtures requires tuning (and possibly different hardware!) too, but a bit more wiggle room in terms of margin for error.

Have any madmen on here played with nitromethane mixtures...? :eekdance:

FWIW, I have two comments on undampened pulleys.

1. So far, I have seen no confirmed evidence of engine failures due to one on a VQ37HR (I know of one "rumored" failure, where the pulley had seized to the crankshaft... bad install? Who knows?). Of course, I am not omniscient.

2. That said, the physics of undampened harmonics correspond to real world additional force exerted on reciprocating engine components. Accordingly, no car manufacturer builds a production motor with an undampened crank pulley that I am aware of. They build the engine with a dampened crank pulley with the specific aim of minimizing the extra stress caused by those harmonics, and the associated torsional and vertical vibration.

Individual results may vary, and some motors may be more susceptible to failure than others with prolonged stress from those forces, but I would say use an undampened crank pulley at your own risk...

EDIT: Oh -- duh -- just the alternator pulley? I guess that's okay if you don't have a powerful amp, but underdriving the alternator on a DD also sounds like a questionable idea, and power gains should be negligible relative to the (more inherently risky) crank pulley replacement.

Didn't they go bust after a failed group buy like GTM taking money and running? I don't think you'll ever get one.

We got our pulleys, it just took way longer than we expected/they estimated

Several months right? Everyone got theirs?

I got mine, not sure if everyone got theirs

Chuck what gears do you recommend?

Yup seriously just finished reading a horror story of this thread!


http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...turbo-kit.html

Ended up getting NST pulleys. Ordered em Friday night and was gonna get em shipped but NST was at the Paul walker meet here in SA. So bammmmm got em just like that!!!!


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:eekdance: 4.08 gears You will feel this more than any other mod you have left to do.