Nitrous?:driving: Not really forced induction, but more of a power adder. Not constant, just when you want it.

9 times out of 10, this is the reason. The other 1 time is someone didn't do their homework and cut corners somewhere.

Why are we talking FI I though that wasn't a consideration, people can discuss reliability of FI for hundreds of pages, but that's not the point here.

Cams, pulley, and a change to e85 would be the only real things left for NA top power. Manifold will increase power band in the mid rpms but not effect top. Very few (2 I think) have done cams, so you'll be mostly on your own with that upgrade.

If you're looking to go fast quickly there are three aspects not just power (often the most expensive aspect). Power, weight, and traction all make you go, too much or too little of one will mess the whole thing up.

Gears would be the next step. That's going to make a lot more of a difference than another 5-10whp from a manifold or a pulley.

Possibly. :rofl2:

In all honesty, look at shaving the weight where you can i.e rotors, flywheel, gut the trunk, lighter wheel/tire combo. The less weight you have will usually yield decent results in the power to weight ratio department.

You wont get much out of the manifold, except in the mid-high power curve.

Look into the gearing, especially since you don't have any plans for boost.

What type/ratio of gears should be good for our Z?

Anyone can chime in with Z1's daytona throttle body upgrade?

Cams, port & polish, more aggressive fuel system, lightened flywheel, better clutch than OEM, short shift kit, and stickers ;)

The 370 can be a mid to high 12 sec car with some work, and still be daily driven.

The OP has a 7AT

I've been looking at the underdrive pulley from Stillen. Gonna be on sale Sunday so possible.... Is there a better pulley besides Stillen?

All have been said.

Pulley
Lighter flywheel/clutch
Port everything including your heads, I can help with a few
Lighter wheels/tires
Gears
E85
Weight reduction

I'll be doing e85 soon even though some have already shown a good 10/10 increase.

So I did some research, looks like NST (non stop tuning) makes an UD pulley with an OD alt pulley. This looks like a better deal. Anyone know if they're having a blackfriday sale?

Ehhh technically nitrous induction is FI... and doing it right still means a tune that includes extra fueling, colder plugs, reduced timing potentially, etc.

Playing with different fuels and fuel mixtures requires tuning (and possibly different hardware!) too, but a bit more wiggle room in terms of margin for error.

Have any madmen on here played with nitromethane mixtures...? :eekdance:

FWIW, I have two comments on undampened pulleys.

1. So far, I have seen no confirmed evidence of engine failures due to one on a VQ37HR (I know of one "rumored" failure, where the pulley had seized to the crankshaft... bad install? Who knows?). Of course, I am not omniscient.

2. That said, the physics of undampened harmonics correspond to real world additional force exerted on reciprocating engine components. Accordingly, no car manufacturer builds a production motor with an undampened crank pulley that I am aware of. They build the engine with a dampened crank pulley with the specific aim of minimizing the extra stress caused by those harmonics, and the associated torsional and vertical vibration.

Individual results may vary, and some motors may be more susceptible to failure than others with prolonged stress from those forces, but I would say use an undampened crank pulley at your own risk...

EDIT: Oh -- duh -- just the alternator pulley? I guess that's okay if you don't have a powerful amp, but underdriving the alternator on a DD also sounds like a questionable idea, and power gains should be negligible relative to the (more inherently risky) crank pulley replacement.

Didn't they go bust after a failed group buy like GTM taking money and running? I don't think you'll ever get one.

We got our pulleys, it just took way longer than we expected/they estimated