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Yea what he said. |
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When driving an automatic I brake torque to 1500 -1700rpm, then floor it. I usually take a sip of coffee too. :stirthepot: I do this in all my rentals :D |
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Not sure what kind of transmission was in there, but dayuum, the only thing that killed the car, was redlining without proper lubrication :tup: = rod through the block. Transmission still held up. AND, AND, get this, i bough the car @ 202k miles, put maybe 18k more on it, before its demise. What a great car that was. Rotted rear fenders, pull back seat cushions see the tires :icon23: - bent rear something or other, got mad chamber filling back seat with three kids and going off roading :driving:. Did i mention the automatic seat belts that rolled up the pillars into position! Best feature ever... why don't we see these anymore?? ;) I also remember a few times, before its end of days, pulling the bumper right up against a light post concrete barrier at the mall (front wheel drive), and just flooring it. Somehow the tires went bald, lots of white smoke! .. Anyways to get back on topic, Don't N drop your ride :nutswinger: |
Mash gas and pop clutch.....oh wait you have an auto so just step on the gas.
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Pretty sure they're not intended to actually launch. I'd bet that doing it over and over is just going to destroy your transmission. If it was intended to be launched, they would have added a Launch Control mode like the GT-Rs have.
If I'm remembering correctly, the old GT-Rs had transmission failures because of the stress that launching (foot on brake and gas at same time) places on the transmission. Ultimately your call if you want to lunch your transmission, but just something to keep in mind :driving: |
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One thing to note on the automatic transmission of our Z's is that if you push the brake torque too much the computer will shut it down back to idle. You have to stay below 2k rpm level when doing this to get the converter to stay locked.
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My way sounds dumb to people but it friggin works. Just try it first. But read what I wrote carefully so there's no cornball mistranslations "a la EDUB".
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Under 2000, you're just creating excessive wheelspin. The launch is hard after you spun for a couple seconds. But there's a slight cut in power before the pop. I keep VDC in first to control wheelspin on launch. Then release vdc in second so power doesn't cut while upshifting so aggressively. Vcd will cut power the second a bump throws off the balance of the Z. I can control that on the wheel without cutting power. Hence VDC off. |
Hey Unknown_370 that is an interesting way of doing it im just curious, you mean to drop it into drive when you stop reving? does it matter that the revs are up or you wait until they go down?
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Yes... the idea is that giving it a bunch of idles revs makes it think that you wanna go fast (which you do). So when the revs drop and you put it in gear and goose it, it performs better than if the engine were just idling prior to goosing it.
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problem with the z's throttle lag is that if you idle rev multiple times you tend to miss the perfect engagement window since the throttle latency is so damn big. :D
that said, its easier to just rev and hold rpm then engage clutch on a MT or release brake from torque converter stall speed. |
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DONT REV AND DROP. the only purpose of revving is for the algorithm logic sensory program to get a sense you will be driving aggressively. Oh. One thing... When you initially hit the gas, you instantaneously press to 25%, then when take off is in sequence, floor it n change gears accordingly. |
My thoughts on Launching the 370z:
1) If you want to drag race, you got the wrong car. 2) At the track you will have a rolling start 3) Most Autocross tracks are designed so that the launch isn't important, and start timing about 20 feet in or after the first turn (otherwise AWD would have a huge advantage) 4) On the street, there is no reason for launching your car |
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