Originally Posted by dudev (Post 2812578)

I experienced the same thing when I got my Z last year. The problem for me was that the near simultaneous let-off-gas-cluch motion that I used would always be rough with the Z. Since then I've learned that if I let my foot off the gas a bit earlier than I was used to before clutching the jerkiness goes away. The torque and heavier flywheel make this technique necessary.

Originally Posted by b15 (Post 2922850)

For me, the stock spring always seemed to 'kick back' at the engagement point (which is higher than I like), and it caused me to be jerky.

Originally Posted by katjmmx (Post 2927380)

So far it seems like you really have to find that smooth clutch engage point and give it gas at exactly that point every single time. Otherwise the jerkiness will be there if I'm even a millisecond late with the gas. A nice smooth 1st to 2nd shift in my babygirl always feels like a huge accomplishment.

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 2927387)

And tell me why don't you have an RJM pedal assembly again? :icon17:

The 'kick back' is in the stock pedal assembly. There is a pivot point in the pedal travel even with the spring completely removed. I have an OEM one sitting on my garage floor and could demonstrate this. The RJM pedal is completely smooth and linear. Plus you can adjust the engagement ;)

Originally Posted by cobra (Post 2811864)

:driving: Funny as it may sound but I need tips how to drive my 6 speed Z.
I cannot seem to get the hang of it from 1st to 2nd gear. It's always a little jerky when I release the clutch because it grabs so fast compare to my last car.
At what RPM is the best point to shift between 1st and 2nd. It seems to be
smoother when I don't rev the engine too high between shifts and keep the speed low. The higher gears are ok but it's between 1st and 2nd gears that cause me problems. I don't want my wife to snap her neck on her first ride with me, it will be embarassing. I've had the car for a full week of commuting now, stalled maybe twice but I'm better now. It's not my first 6 speed but this one is different.
I try not to push the clutch too far down and not rev too high,is it the best way,what's your technique, thanks

Originally Posted by b15 (Post 2927650)

Honestly I thought the OEM assembly felt fine without a spring, I just didn't like the 'slop' so I installed the lighter spring. I think Nissan shouldve had the light spring from the factory. I also adjusted the stock clutch travel via a DIY i saw on the 350 forum. I've read a lot of rave reviews on the RJM, but it's not at the top of my list for mods right now since I'm content with the clutch with these two mods

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 2927920)

I ran OEM for 2.5 years. I just adjusted and had no issues. After removing the spring, I meant to purchase the lighter spring. But I'm a procrastinator who lucked out because 4 months later my wife purchased the RJM clutch pedal assembly for me for my birthday. I have seen the light now. The OEM pedal is complete garbage. Had I known the truth about the RJM pedal at the time of purchase, it would have been the first mod on the car.

In trying to "help" people operate the clutch, Nissan has just impeded those who do know how to operate a clutch from getting the most out of the vehicle.

Originally Posted by b15 (Post 2927949)

:iagree:

Also I wish my wife bought my car parts. She flat out told me she'll never do that :mad:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 2928114)

while the clutch spring does help a lot, i still think it's the throttle lag that gets new drivers confused. even seasoned MT drivers will need some getting used to at first in a Z to accelerate smoothly 100% of the time.

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 2928128)

Very true. My research indicates that at low RPM and low gear, the throttle can be muted by as much as 50% of available throttle in addition to laggy response on the stock tune.