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my G's battery is original from 2004. still plenty powerful. my z's battery is original too from 2009. like new condition.
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#2 (permalink) |
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I was interested in the suggestion marked "Spring Lubrication" that indicated you should crank the engine several times without letting it fire in order to lubricate the bearings, etc. It suggests either first removing the plugs (… a bit of a pain in the a**) or disconnecting the condenser(s) (… also a pain). Is there another simpler way to accomplish the same thing without compromising any electrical components, control modules, etc.? Presumably, you could pull a fuse(s)??? Looking for advice. Thanks!
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#3 (permalink) | |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Also, is the suggestion to crank the engine before starting it up really necessary? There are lots of folks who store their Zs over the winter. I've never seen mention of cranking the engine before the first start-up in the spring. There is some debate as to whether you should periodically start the car over the course of the winter versus leaving it sit without starting it, but I can't recall anybody mentioning the need to crank the engine before starting it for the first time. What do most folks do? |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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#6 (permalink) | ||
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Starting the car during storage is not bad as long as you let the engine warm up completely. When I was working on the transmission of the '67 Mustang I had, I would start the engine every week and let it run for about 30 minutes.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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as for plug wires, id be more worried about mice. i use dcon under the car just in case. i dont have a mouse problem yet. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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I guess I should've mentioned that I do have a trickle charger. I usually put it on for the last week of winter storage. So from what I gathered, it would be best to leave it hooked up for te duration of the year. I'm that case, I'll use the old battery (there's nothing actually wrong with it, I'm only mentioning replacement due to it's age)
Also, I won't be doing that whole "pull the plugs and spray a little oil in there" method. That seems a bit of overkill tbh. Now as far as cranking it over to get the cylinders oiled up - is it really worth the hassle? I wouldn't have a problem disconnecting power to the spark plugs, but my concern is the fuel that will be injected and not burned up. That means I should disconnect the fuel pump too, or cap off the fuel rails.. I'm pretty sure that fresh gasoline would cause some adverse effects with fresh oil inside the cylinders. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Leaving a battery on a trickle charger risks boiling off the electrolyte. In that case, the best thing that could happen is that it ruins the battery. The worst thing would be a case rupture and possibly an explosion. It's safe to leave a float charger like Battery Tender on a battery during extended storage. In fact, it's smart. Leaving a trickle charger on it is dangerous. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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During winter storage, it is NOT good to start the car for short periods, because while the engine is cold, the moisture which is generated as a byproduct of combustion can condense on the cylinder walls and throughout the exhaust system. If you're gonna start the car mid-storage, you should run it long enough for all components to fully warm up and to expel all the unwated moisture out of the engine & exhaust.
This is why I'll be taking her for a nice hard drive just before parking her. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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![]() ![]() You can just see it past the power lines in the attached pic (taken from my backyard) |
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