Limp Mode w/ codes - Tried multiple fixes / Searched

TPrelude-370z · 03-05-2014, 09:23 AM

First off thank you for taking a look at this and offering your expertise. Quick overview of what happened. No prior issues. Gassed car up drove 1 mile home. Next morning drive a mile to the store. On my way home from the store car starts sputtering/missfiring and will not exceed 2500 rpm (limp mode). As I was leaving the store I kind of got stuck in the snow spinning my wheels for a little bit before breaking free. The problem started immediately after that. Brief description of attempted fixes below

MODS - stillen short ram, full header back custom exhaust, uprev tuned.
2009 touring sport - 18000 miles

Initially I thought bad gas which is still a possibility. Weird coincidence is I always fill up the tank only half way because I don't drive much and a tank lasts me for a while. This was the first time in a long time I filled it all the way.

The other variable was the snow incident. Maybe something got wet that should not have (Bad 02 sensor I don't believe causes limp mode but not 100% sure). I have been in snow deeper than that many times without issue. It's a reach but thought I would let you know. It has also been a very cold winter here in chicago with many neg temperatures. Never had any problem though, car ran like a champ.

Did a lot of research of the issue and the codes and here is what I came up with/checked. Did multiple ecu resets (disconnect neg battery at least 10 min (I did it overnight).

Gas cap. no issues tried multiple clicks even.

Low oil pressure. Please do not judge or give me crap about this as I don't drive very much and the car had been sitting most of the summer. I checked the oil and it was bone dry. I know it is inexcusable but there is nothing I can do about it now except move fwd. We have all made mistakes at some point with our toys. There was enough to keep the engine lubricated and this is clearly a sensor/electrical issue. Go to dealer get oil changed, explain the situation and they reset the code then sent me on my way with the car "fixed". Drove about 15 ft and the cel starts flashing again and symptoms repeat. They didn't want to deal with it when I brought it right back because of the aftermarket mods and the fact it has been tuned. He said they would, but at least wanted the computer to a stock map.

Next try was MAF. Common fix for this issue just cleaning them. They looked brand new but I did it anyway (also cleaned all connecters). I cleaned the dirty air filters thorough like new as they were pretty dirty. Pulled the piping checked for debris as well as the throttle body. Everything looked great, like new. Checked all vacuum lines, very diligent to avoid anything air leaks. Reset the computer again, no change. Idles extremely poorly, loud, etc... limp mode. Tried reset multiple efforts to no avail.

More searching found multiple other possibilities as far what it could be and found these potential fixes. Exhaust leak, some rare sprocket issues, and some other random fixes from a fuze to even a brake light out. These were actual posts. My next thought is replacing the MAFs. That seems like the most logical fix but who knows. I also thought about taking it to an uprev tuner to see if they can fix the issue with their software/tune. I would like to exhaust what I can check on my own before taking it to a tuner shop (there are local shops with good reputations). Since there are so many variables and so many things it could be, I would rather try on my own before paying possibly a lot of money to troubleshoot.

CODES below:

p0300 (end all be all when comp doesn't know whats wrong)

ignition
cylinder missfire (more than likely because of the ratios in limp mode)
fuel system
large vacuum leak
MAF fault
O2 sensor

0011 (not likely the issues, thrown more than likely because of the other symptoms)

intake valve timing control circuit failure
IVT control selenoid
cam/ crank sensor
dirt buildup at control valve

1421

cold start emission reduction strategy monitoring.
Lack of air intake volume engine mechanical fault
plugged air filter
fuel injection system fault.

What do you think, fuel stabilizer? Octane boost? a hail mary to improve the gas a tad? Draining the tank would not be an option for me, I would have to take it somewhere.

Any thoughts would be very helpful. Thanks guys.

Chuck33079 · 03-05-2014, 09:32 AM

I hate to say it, but I think the low oil may have done some damage to the VVEL. I would guess the fact you just filled up is coincidental. How do you know there was enough oil to keep everything lubed if the dipstick was dry? Hopefully I'm way off base and it's just a tank of bad gas, but the oil thing makes me thing you've got a much bigger issue.

Mitco39 · 03-05-2014, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

I hate to say it, but I think the low oil may have done some damage to the VVEL. I would guess the fact you just filled up is coincidental. How do you know there was enough oil to keep everything lubed if the dipstick was dry? Hopefully I'm way off base and it's just a tank of bad gas, but the oil thing makes me thing you've got a much bigger issue.

I have ran mine very low before (that was before I knew these cars burned oil like they do fuel) with no issues. I am under the understanding that as long as you have oil pressure your fine as its that pressure that ultimately feeds your engine and the pickup sits lower than your dip stick. However if your low oil pressure light did come on then I could see your internals taking a hit, especially if you did not turn it off right away.

Almost sounds electronic to me. You said it is uprev tuned, do you know how to log the car to see exactly what the engine is doing? It might shed some insight on the issue.

Goodluck

TPrelude-370z · 03-05-2014, 09:46 AM

Wishful thinking, ha. There was a tiny dot on the dipstick when I pulled it out, ha. He did report, "found almost no oil in engine. No signs of external leaks." I know that is a possibility but from the research and the matching symptoms I don't feel like that is the issue. Or selective thinking. I may as well try my other options before worrying about that as that is beyond my skillset. Thank you for the response.

Chuck33079 · 03-05-2014, 09:48 AM

Like I said, I hope that's not the case. If you've got the cable, bust out Cypher and start logging stuff.

TPrelude-370z · 03-05-2014, 09:49 AM

Didn't get an oil pressure light, and took it to the dealer a mile away the following day right away. They did not believe it was engine damage either. There are so many sensors that can have the same codes/effect its really tough to pin point. I do believe it is electrical too. I have no way of checking on the tune/computer, I would need to take it to a shop. I will take it in as soon as I try anything simple that I can.

Chuck33079 · 03-05-2014, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TPrelude-370z

I may as well try my other options before worrying about that as that is beyond my skillset.

Agreed. Might as well rule out the gas. Siphon out as much as you can and top it off with good gas. See if that and a reset solve it. The P0300 could be pretty much anything under the sun. Does the motor make any new noises?

Justice97 · 03-05-2014, 10:15 AM

Back in like 91 I stopped and filled up my Z at an exxon. As I was filling up a semi pulls up and commences to unload his fuel in the tanks.

The next evening on the news like 20 or 30 cars were damaged from diesel fuel at that gas station.

I will say a prayer to the fuel gods for you in hopes you just got some bad gas.

TPrelude-370z · 03-05-2014, 10:34 AM

I agree, I feel like that was the first major variable to have something come on so suddenly after filling up. I'll have to look into getting a siphon and go that route next. Lot of money in gas 50$ but worth a shot. X that, I have nowhere to store 15 gallons of fuel. That would have to be at the shop as well.

TPrelude-370z · 03-05-2014, 10:35 AM

the motor is making noises and running poorly because of the limp mode map. You can smell the excess fuel it is getting. The noises are normal in this mode.

Chuck33079 · 03-05-2014, 10:37 AM

Fingers crossed it's bad gas. That's the cheapest fix by far.

TPrelude-370z · 03-05-2014, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Fingers crossed it's bad gas. That's the cheapest fix by far.

Yeah, thats something I won't be able to do. Too much gas in the tank, its full.

Chuck33079 · 03-05-2014, 10:55 AM

Stuff a hose down the filler and siphon it out into a gas can? Hell, siphon into a bucket and dump it down the storm drain at night.

No octane booster is going to help here unless you clear out enough space for a buch of toluene.

TPrelude-370z · 03-05-2014, 11:23 AM

Ha, its 15 gallons. That is a lot of freaking gas. I don't really have a container close to that nor would it really be worth searching and finding one then dumping so much gas. I totally agree it needs to be done, but better left for the shop.

roy'sz · 03-05-2014, 02:41 PM

Octane booster could fix this issue if it isn't firing right. I got po300 when I didn't have my car tuned and had installed cai and hfc's. But if I were you I would syphon out most of the gas and fill it up with a reputable station (Shell, Chevron) and see if it helps. Also just to let you know when the car is extremely cold and having the tune it will limit your accelleration when you first fire it up. It does have (or atleast my car does) have a limiter when the coolant and oil temps are below a certain threshold.

03-05-2014, 09:23 AM	#1 (permalink)
TPrelude-370z Base Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Chicago, Il Posts: 243 Drives: 09-Tour-Sport-MB-6MT Rep Power: 14	Limp Mode w/ codes - Tried multiple fixes / Searched First off thank you for taking a look at this and offering your expertise. Quick overview of what happened. No prior issues. Gassed car up drove 1 mile home. Next morning drive a mile to the store. On my way home from the store car starts sputtering/missfiring and will not exceed 2500 rpm (limp mode). As I was leaving the store I kind of got stuck in the snow spinning my wheels for a little bit before breaking free. The problem started immediately after that. Brief description of attempted fixes below MODS - stillen short ram, full header back custom exhaust, uprev tuned. 2009 touring sport - 18000 miles Initially I thought bad gas which is still a possibility. Weird coincidence is I always fill up the tank only half way because I don't drive much and a tank lasts me for a while. This was the first time in a long time I filled it all the way. The other variable was the snow incident. Maybe something got wet that should not have (Bad 02 sensor I don't believe causes limp mode but not 100% sure). I have been in snow deeper than that many times without issue. It's a reach but thought I would let you know. It has also been a very cold winter here in chicago with many neg temperatures. Never had any problem though, car ran like a champ. Did a lot of research of the issue and the codes and here is what I came up with/checked. Did multiple ecu resets (disconnect neg battery at least 10 min (I did it overnight). Gas cap. no issues tried multiple clicks even. Low oil pressure. Please do not judge or give me crap about this as I don't drive very much and the car had been sitting most of the summer. I checked the oil and it was bone dry. I know it is inexcusable but there is nothing I can do about it now except move fwd. We have all made mistakes at some point with our toys. There was enough to keep the engine lubricated and this is clearly a sensor/electrical issue. Go to dealer get oil changed, explain the situation and they reset the code then sent me on my way with the car "fixed". Drove about 15 ft and the cel starts flashing again and symptoms repeat. They didn't want to deal with it when I brought it right back because of the aftermarket mods and the fact it has been tuned. He said they would, but at least wanted the computer to a stock map. Next try was MAF. Common fix for this issue just cleaning them. They looked brand new but I did it anyway (also cleaned all connecters). I cleaned the dirty air filters thorough like new as they were pretty dirty. Pulled the piping checked for debris as well as the throttle body. Everything looked great, like new. Checked all vacuum lines, very diligent to avoid anything air leaks. Reset the computer again, no change. Idles extremely poorly, loud, etc... limp mode. Tried reset multiple efforts to no avail. More searching found multiple other possibilities as far what it could be and found these potential fixes. Exhaust leak, some rare sprocket issues, and some other random fixes from a fuze to even a brake light out. These were actual posts. My next thought is replacing the MAFs. That seems like the most logical fix but who knows. I also thought about taking it to an uprev tuner to see if they can fix the issue with their software/tune. I would like to exhaust what I can check on my own before taking it to a tuner shop (there are local shops with good reputations). Since there are so many variables and so many things it could be, I would rather try on my own before paying possibly a lot of money to troubleshoot. CODES below: p0300 (end all be all when comp doesn't know whats wrong) ignition cylinder missfire (more than likely because of the ratios in limp mode) fuel system large vacuum leak MAF fault O2 sensor 0011 (not likely the issues, thrown more than likely because of the other symptoms) intake valve timing control circuit failure IVT control selenoid cam/ crank sensor dirt buildup at control valve 1421 cold start emission reduction strategy monitoring. Lack of air intake volume engine mechanical fault plugged air filter fuel injection system fault. What do you think, fuel stabilizer? Octane boost? a hail mary to improve the gas a tad? Draining the tank would not be an option for me, I would have to take it somewhere. Any thoughts would be very helpful. Thanks guys.

03-05-2014, 09:32 AM	#2 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	I hate to say it, but I think the low oil may have done some damage to the VVEL. I would guess the fact you just filled up is coincidental. How do you know there was enough oil to keep everything lubed if the dipstick was dry? Hopefully I'm way off base and it's just a tank of bad gas, but the oil thing makes me thing you've got a much bigger issue. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-05-2014, 09:48 AM	#5 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	Like I said, I hope that's not the case. If you've got the cable, bust out Cypher and start logging stuff. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-05-2014, 10:34 AM	#9 (permalink)
TPrelude-370z Base Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Chicago, Il Posts: 243 Drives: 09-Tour-Sport-MB-6MT Rep Power: 14	I agree, I feel like that was the first major variable to have something come on so suddenly after filling up. I'll have to look into getting a siphon and go that route next. Lot of money in gas 50$ but worth a shot. X that, I have nowhere to store 15 gallons of fuel. That would have to be at the shop as well. Last edited by TPrelude-370z; 03-05-2014 at 10:43 AM.

03-05-2014, 10:37 AM	#11 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	Fingers crossed it's bad gas. That's the cheapest fix by far. Streetlife likes this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-05-2014, 09:46 AM	#4 (permalink)
TPrelude-370z Base Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Chicago, Il Posts: 243 Drives: 09-Tour-Sport-MB-6MT Rep Power: 14	Wishful thinking, ha. There was a tiny dot on the dipstick when I pulled it out, ha. He did report, "found almost no oil in engine. No signs of external leaks." I know that is a possibility but from the research and the matching symptoms I don't feel like that is the issue. Or selective thinking. I may as well try my other options before worrying about that as that is beyond my skillset. Thank you for the response.

03-05-2014, 09:49 AM	#6 (permalink)
TPrelude-370z Base Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Chicago, Il Posts: 243 Drives: 09-Tour-Sport-MB-6MT Rep Power: 14	Didn't get an oil pressure light, and took it to the dealer a mile away the following day right away. They did not believe it was engine damage either. There are so many sensors that can have the same codes/effect its really tough to pin point. I do believe it is electrical too. I have no way of checking on the tune/computer, I would need to take it to a shop. I will take it in as soon as I try anything simple that I can.

03-05-2014, 10:15 AM	#8 (permalink)
Justice97 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: San Antonio Posts: 387 Drives: 11 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 16	Back in like 91 I stopped and filled up my Z at an exxon. As I was filling up a semi pulls up and commences to unload his fuel in the tanks. The next evening on the news like 20 or 30 cars were damaged from diesel fuel at that gas station. I will say a prayer to the fuel gods for you in hopes you just got some bad gas.

03-05-2014, 10:35 AM	#10 (permalink)
TPrelude-370z Base Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Chicago, Il Posts: 243 Drives: 09-Tour-Sport-MB-6MT Rep Power: 14	the motor is making noises and running poorly because of the limp mode map. You can smell the excess fuel it is getting. The noises are normal in this mode.

03-05-2014, 10:55 AM	#13 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	Stuff a hose down the filler and siphon it out into a gas can? Hell, siphon into a bucket and dump it down the storm drain at night. No octane booster is going to help here unless you clear out enough space for a buch of toluene. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-05-2014, 11:23 AM	#14 (permalink)
TPrelude-370z Base Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Chicago, Il Posts: 243 Drives: 09-Tour-Sport-MB-6MT Rep Power: 14	Ha, its 15 gallons. That is a lot of freaking gas. I don't really have a container close to that nor would it really be worth searching and finding one then dumping so much gas. I totally agree it needs to be done, but better left for the shop.

03-05-2014, 02:41 PM	#15 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	Octane booster could fix this issue if it isn't firing right. I got po300 when I didn't have my car tuned and had installed cai and hfc's. But if I were you I would syphon out most of the gas and fill it up with a reputable station (Shell, Chevron) and see if it helps. Also just to let you know when the car is extremely cold and having the tune it will limit your accelleration when you first fire it up. It does have (or atleast my car does) have a limiter when the coolant and oil temps are below a certain threshold. __________________ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtvG...data_playerARK HFC'S-ARK Grip-Stillen G3-M370-UPREV-Kinetix upper control arm-WC Latheworks-Stage2 Bad@$$ Driver(318whp/268tq)-

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