You want to do two things after you charge the battery. Check your voltmeter with the car running and check that it's reading ~14.5V. Then, go get a load test done on your battery. If this checks out ok, you have a current drain that needs correcting. Your battery shouldn't die after sitting for two months.

even 4-6months you should only have minimal loss…..

Yes, I'll have the battery tested after I get it charged back up. The battery is not dead, just weak. The issue seems like the car is only trying to turn over once when I press the start button. I feel like if it had a key to turn, it would eventually turn over...maybe not, but just what it seems like. Anyway, it's still to earlier in the season to get it out of the garage so I may just pull the battery and charge it in my apt.

The cost of a Battery Tender is worth it to me to avoid the hassle of disconnecting, removing, and storing a seasonal battery, then installing and reprogramming when going back into service. I used to do it that way years ago, before float chargers were readily available, but then got smarter when t hey did. As you say, each to their own. I'll pay to avoid the inconvenience.

:tiphat:

however disconnecting it is all that is needed I don't even take the battery out of the vehicle. end of season easy one step deal disconnect it and your done.

then there is only 3 steps for restart
- connect battery & start the car let it idle then while idling to warm up etc
- reset auto windows
- set clock and wait for temps to rise so you can go rip it! :driving:

It is funny how often we see these threads though, these and "oil threads" :roflpuke2:

come on people it's easy, don't be scared it's only pu$$y

And I would do it that way if the money was more important to me than the inconvenience...:tup:

Extended Storage Switch
 

Is anyone using the extended storage switch in the fuse block? Nissan expects the car to be stored winters in colder climates and knows that it has a parasitic drain during extended storage and provided an extended storage switch to reduce the drain. You just pull out the switch and it cuts power to a few electronic control modules to reduce the current drain. It is actually just a fuse with a plastic case around it with locking tabs on the side. It's on pages 8-24 & 8-25 of my 2012 owners manual.

Really?! Lol! :eek:

Sweet! :tiphat:

I am going to take a look in my manual :tup:

I just start my car once every 4 weeks. The car is been stored in my garage since December.

This is the first year , I had trouble starting my 2010Z perhaps due to the longer period of not starting it once every few weeks due to this brutal winter this year. Just picked up one of the battery tender from Amazon( alternative brands are Noco or Ctek ) and no regrets. Its less than $50 and btw, if you can afford a Z , Iíi bet you can afford one of these devices for peace of mind. Have been using these chargers for my boat too during off season storage and its well worth the $50

Haven't read through this entire thread but I saw I have a 10 which means it's comin up on 4 years old. My car is also a 10 and I just had to replace mine

It would be wise to make sure it gets up to operating temp, with oil temps hot enough to boil away any water that has accumulated. Otherwise, all you're doing by starting it is contributing to the generation of more condensation and you're doing far more harm than good.

Good info in here. Next winter I'll have to remember to disconnect the negative on the battery. I'd definitely pay for a tender or charger, but my apartment garage has no electrical outlets, so no go there. I've had my Z out once in early January, and was just fine; gave it a good day drive.

(Pun intended...)