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Apparently my Z is REALLY 'special'..

Originally Posted by Bowman I can't tell you guys enough how much I appreciate all the joke responses.. -__- Thought this forum was going to be a little more mature...

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Old 01-31-2014, 02:10 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I can't tell you guys enough how much I appreciate all the joke responses.. -__-
Thought this forum was going to be a little more mature...

Everyone on the serious note, thanks for the suggestions, I'll mention some of them next time I'm up at the dealer.
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:14 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bowman View Post
I can't tell you guys enough how much I appreciate all the joke responses.. -__-
Thought this forum was going to be a little more mature...

Everyone on the serious note, thanks for the suggestions, I'll mention some of them next time I'm up at the dealer.


next time make your post down to the point and ask the question first... then explain the background for those that want to read it.

then we can spool up a nice DIY for ya.
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:18 PM   #33 (permalink)
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It never has an issue after start-up. Only the initial start will if give any signs of stalling or sputtering, once it idles out by itself after a sec or if I give it a little gas to keep the RPM's up, then its fine the rest of the drive. Full or empty.
Does it only happen on warm starts? Does your dash needles fail to synchronize at start up?
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:20 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Sorry, but its..

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Old 01-31-2014, 02:23 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Does it only happen on warm starts? Does your dash needles fail to synchronize at start up?
Happens on any start-up. Everything seems fine until it goes to idle after start-up..then its hit or miss whether the RPM's dip down and struggle/stalls. Sometimes it starts just fine though.. That's whats confusing everyone and making it so hard to figure out. And all the replacement parts that haven't made a difference..
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:07 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Honestly, if they've had your car for over a month I'd contact an attorney. It's not your fault they can't figure it out, seems like some sort of lemon law would apply or some sort of legal precedent would be out there for this situation.
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:08 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Honestly, if they've had your car for over a month I'd contact an attorney. It's not your fault they can't figure it out, seems like some sort of lemon law would apply or some sort of legal precedent would be out there for this situation.
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:32 PM   #38 (permalink)
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happens on any start-up. Everything seems fine until it goes to idle after start-up..then its hit or miss whether the rpm's dip down and struggle/stalls. Sometimes it starts just fine though.. That's whats confusing everyone and making it so hard to figure out. And all the replacement parts that haven't made a difference..
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honestly, if they've had your car for over a month i'd contact an attorney. It's not your fault they can't figure it out, seems like some sort of lemon law would apply or some sort of legal precedent would be out there for this situation.
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:33 PM   #39 (permalink)
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diy: call DE.


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Old 01-31-2014, 03:37 PM   #40 (permalink)
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That probably applies to any situation.
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:43 PM   #41 (permalink)
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That probably applies to any situation.
ive seen his DIY's..

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Old 01-31-2014, 03:44 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:45 PM   #43 (permalink)
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ohh.... i guess he wasnt kidding.

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Old 01-31-2014, 04:42 PM   #44 (permalink)
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So there are no common denominators what so ever as to when she idles fine, and when she stalls? Ambient temperature, hard/soft driving on the trip before, particular type or brand of gas you've been filling it with, etc? If all they have done in a month's time is check/replace all of the electrical and throw the scanner on it a hundred times, I would be wondering if they are really spending any time on your car. Every dealership hates warranty work, they make little money off of it. If I were you, I would start getting on their *** hard core. Tell them that if this engineer can't figure it out, you want a new Z.
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:32 PM   #45 (permalink)
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So there are no common denominators what so ever as to when she idles fine, and when she stalls? Ambient temperature, hard/soft driving on the trip before, particular type or brand of gas you've been filling it with, etc? If all they have done in a month's time is check/replace all of the electrical and throw the scanner on it a hundred times, I would be wondering if they are really spending any time on your car. Every dealership hates warranty work, they make little money off of it. If I were you, I would start getting on their *** hard core. Tell them that if this engineer can't figure it out, you want a new Z.
Little is an understatement, they make TONS of money from it. And while Nissan doesn't pay out as much. As long as the dealer has Nissan's blessing to buy more parts, it's EASY money because there isn't a customer who will bitch about the repair cost. Nissan just bleeds it out
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