PSA - Don't use a Battery Tender Jr. on your Z

Vaughanabe13 · 12-05-2013, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

hummmm... in order to make this an actual PSA, can you ask the manufacturer wat the maximum allowed drain amperage is for the jr?

and what is the drain amperage of the 370Z they have on file?

would like to make sound decisions based on data, not based on potential xmas-season-hired-part-timer..

Will do.

Vaughanabe13 · 12-05-2013, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

verify wat with a multimeter? verify the battery's cca using an ammeter you mean?

but why would i need to verify anything if everything is working fine the last 7yrs on one unit and 4yrs on another?

So I guess that's a "no". A multimeter can verify the BTJr is maintaining voltage according to their float curves. It could be you perceive the BTJr to be working but really leaving it off would make no difference. Do you start your car during storage or do you rely solely on the tender? And if you don't start your car at all during storage, how long is it stored for? I'm not trying to prove you wrong/be antagonistic here, I'm trying to figure out the answer.

Felix 808 · 12-05-2013, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vaughanabe13

TL;DR: Don't use a Battery Tender Jr. on your 370Z because it can't keep up with the high parasitic draw on the battery from the Z's electronics. It will make your battery die during winter storage and probably shorten the life of your battery over time. Spend the few extra dollars on the Tender Plus instead.

Good advice right there. I have never used a JR, always the Tender Plus on a number of vehicles without any trouble.

Fountainhead · 12-05-2013, 08:21 PM

As someone said, I would first verify the parasitic draw with nothing attached, put a digital MM between positive lead of battery and the positive battery cable with the amps on meter set to highest scale then work your way down till you find a readable range. Don't use a clamp on meter unless it has range in the 100's of milliamps. Usually quiescent draw is in the low milliamps. This will tell you the quiescent current draw at rest.
Then I would measure the voltage at the battery terminals after the 'lil tyke charger has been connected say, overnight. If the voltage is within tolerance, I would have to assume some other problem exists.
Lets face facts here, you need voltage and amps to crank the car. If the car doesn't crank easily either you have not enough volts or amps, it's that simple.
(Considering your statement that the car cranks normally after a period of time).
If you were feeling REALLY energetic you could measure the current draw of the 'lil tyke battery charger into the battery when first connected, and then after overnight. See if the current draw is over the device rating.

wrxrcr · 12-05-2013, 09:25 PM

Take your battery out of the car or just disconnect the negative terminal.

b15 · 12-05-2013, 11:21 PM

Could be a combination of the JR and your older battery/parasitic draw. The JR's lower amperage design isn't really intended to charge a battery, but rather "top it off" and keep it that way. Give the Tender Plus a shot, or try one of the many other brands with at least 1amp or more. I personally run a 1.5amp Schumacher maintainer.

Ubetit · 12-06-2013, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vaughanabe13

I have no access to my z in the winter so a tender is my only option (or nothing).

Nothing is an option. I've done it every year. Mustang GT for years, S2000 for 6 years, Z for 2 years. I haven't had to charge the battery once. Never replaced the mustang battery, replaced S2000 battery in year 4 or 5, still on factory Z battery.

Don't start the car for a few minutes, it won't do any good. Either let it sit the entire 4-6 months or start it and drive it enough for all fluids to come up to operating temps.

kenchan · 12-06-2013, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vaughanabe13

So I guess that's a "no". A multimeter can verify the BTJr is maintaining voltage according to their float curves. It could be you perceive the BTJr to be working but really leaving it off would make no difference. Do you start your car during storage or do you rely solely on the tender? And if you don't start your car at all during storage, how long is it stored for? I'm not trying to prove you wrong/be antagonistic here, I'm trying to figure out the answer.

well the battery is showing a healthy 12v+ at all times. it's really the cca that tells if a battery is good or not. for that, you can't just use your multi-meter.

i dont start the car at all during the 4-6month hibernation.

Troyz · 12-06-2013, 11:46 AM

I would think it might be better to drive them around (if possible) to keep the tires round and the gaskets good at least once every 6 weeks even if you can't get out of 2nd gear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

In places that snow, it's very common for people to put their sports cars away after snow starts falling and take them out again in spring. Did I misread your post somehow?

Chuck33079 · 12-06-2013, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Troyz

I would think it might be better to drive them around (if possible) to keep the tires round and the gaskets good at least once every 6 weeks even if you can't get out of 2nd gear.

Plenty of people in this very thread seem to disagree.

kenchan · 12-06-2013, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Plenty of people in this very thread seem to disagree.

kenchan · 12-06-2013, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Troyz

I would think it might be better to drive them around (if possible) to keep the tires round and the gaskets good at least once every 6 weeks even if you can't get out of 2nd gear.

you have to do it in reverse for full effect. otherwise, tires dont round completely going forward in the cold.

kenchan · 12-06-2013, 11:51 AM

btw troyz- disclaimer is that, that was a joke. (just wanted to make sure)

Lug · 12-06-2013, 01:27 PM

To sum up........ the Z is ingenious. It's quality work. And there are simply too many "electronics", that's all. Just cut a few and it will be perfect.

nismosis · 12-06-2013, 02:20 PM

So I ran my little experiment. Jr was red for a couple hours, then blinked green, now steady state green (see pic 1). I think you may just have a bad Battery Tender. Can you try it on another battery?

Refer to pic 2 for a properly stored winter Z

12-05-2013, 08:21 PM	#34 (permalink)
Fountainhead Track Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: FL Posts: 834 Drives: 2019 Civic Type R Rep Power: 14	As someone said, I would first verify the parasitic draw with nothing attached, put a digital MM between positive lead of battery and the positive battery cable with the amps on meter set to highest scale then work your way down till you find a readable range. Don't use a clamp on meter unless it has range in the 100's of milliamps. Usually quiescent draw is in the low milliamps. This will tell you the quiescent current draw at rest. Then I would measure the voltage at the battery terminals after the 'lil tyke charger has been connected say, overnight. If the voltage is within tolerance, I would have to assume some other problem exists. Lets face facts here, you need voltage and amps to crank the car. If the car doesn't crank easily either you have not enough volts or amps, it's that simple. (Considering your statement that the car cranks normally after a period of time). If you were feeling REALLY energetic you could measure the current draw of the 'lil tyke battery charger into the battery when first connected, and then after overnight. See if the current draw is over the device rating. Felix 808 likes this. Last edited by Fountainhead; 12-05-2013 at 08:24 PM.

12-06-2013, 11:51 AM	#43 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	btw troyz- disclaimer is that, that was a joke. (just wanted to make sure) marks370z likes this.

12-06-2013, 01:27 PM	#44 (permalink)
Lug A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Texas Posts: 1,926 Drives: 2006 350Z Rep Power: 19	To sum up........ the Z is ingenious. It's quality work. And there are simply too many "electronics", that's all. Just cut a few and it will be perfect. marks370z likes this. __________________ keep Chubbs in your pocket - Chubbs

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12-05-2013, 09:25 PM	#35 (permalink)
wrxrcr Base Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: columbus Posts: 74 Drives: 12 370z,09 Wrx Rep Power: 12	Take your battery out of the car or just disconnect the negative terminal.

12-05-2013, 11:21 PM	#36 (permalink)
b15 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,229 Drives: 4drz Rep Power: 36571	Could be a combination of the JR and your older battery/parasitic draw. The JR's lower amperage design isn't really intended to charge a battery, but rather "top it off" and keep it that way. Give the Tender Plus a shot, or try one of the many other brands with at least 1amp or more. I personally run a 1.5amp Schumacher maintainer.