Is high test really necessary?

jlo370z

I use to run 87 in my juke ( says to use premium for performance)

any how i would get about 25 miles to the gallon.

i then tried 93 and im up to 29.7

when i break it down to the penny. it cost 16 cents per mile on 87 and 14 cents per mile on 93

Run the super unleaded

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❝The Jlo370Z Build❞
523HP | 455 ftb tq | 11.5 PSI | 93 Octane
2017 Porsche 991.2 C4!l

MacLean

My octane level that I use is H2O and she's a beast in reverse, and I get 36mpg.

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l Meisterschaft Full Cat-Back Exhaust l F. I. Resonated High Flow Cats l Stillen Gen 3 l M370 Intake Manifold l UpRev l JWT Clutch & Flywheel l ZSpeed HD CSC l Stillen 19 Row Oil Cooler l ZSpeed Powercoated Under Tray l GTSpec: 6, 4, 2 Point Brace l

90 ST

My Frontier also, but I find running premium I get better mileage, so for the extra couple bucks that's what goes in.

Jordo!

Here's the bottom line:

Transient modifiers, recommendations for other cars, and general (or even expert, as in the case of several contributors to this thread) knowledge aside: If you can't or aren't attempting to monitor/actively tune around knock for the specific engine unit in question, you are stuck hoping the "black box" of the ECU is compensating sufficiently if you are using an AKI below recommended levels.

The default would be to follow manufacturer recommendations, if nothing else, in order to preserve the owner's side of the obligations of the warranty.

Once the warranty's out (or if it was never an issue), you are on your own to do whatever you like, but hopefully logic, reason, (and ideally empirical data, if it can be obtained) would inform subsequent behaviors...

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Enjoy it. Destroy it.

IDZRVIT

Well said, Jordo.

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"America.... still builds rockets!"
Vette: 355 cid, 400 rwhp
'13 CTS-V Coupe: 6.2L LSA, 556HP