You can hook up a multimeter and an oscilloscope anywhere you want on the car and objectively demonstrate that the grounding quality is unaffected by the installation of such a kit. You could measure shift time and demonstrate that as well, if you were so inclined.

There would have to be a staggering design flaw for a late-model car to benefit at all from a grounding kit. Modern vehicles have return wires from electrical components rather than remote ground to frame, and have nice fat wires with negligible impedance. Throwing another wire in parallel doesn't make a significant difference in your ability to move electrons.

Any difference that is "felt" is placebo. I'd be happy to lend electrical equipment to any who would like to experiment on their own.

I myself doubt that this item will do any of the claims I've seen across all the manufacturers. That said, I am currently in the process of making my own. I work around electrical components for my job and sourcing what it takes to build one was fairly easy for me. On top of that I believe mine is going to be better built simply because I'm doing it and it's for my car so I'd take more care to make it look nice than a big supplier would.

There is no such thing as "too much" grounding in any electrical power system. Only application I've seen exception to this rule is in some telecommunications applications.

I'd think that with very little research a person could build one of these in an hour and spend no more than $35-40 on it. For that money even if it does absolutely nothing if done right it will make the engine bay at least look nice, any power gains would be a bonus imo.

I'll post pics of mine when I get done with it.

"Too much" grounding doesn't (generally) create issues, but it also gains nothing.

it gains a sophisticated look.... :ugh:

For the cost of some wire, terminals and heat shrink tubing, it's worth it. For the $100+ companies charge it's pretty obscene.

mine is an auto... It has a slight but noticeable increase in shift time.. from what I've known foryears. This is snake oil on a MT.

:icon17:

If upgrading the transmission grounding will improve shifting, that would be one of the easier and cheaper mods to make. While UNKNOWN_370 seems to know what he is talking about, I'd like to hear from others that have upgraded their transmission grounding before considering making the mod myself.

uh... you're talking about one wire from the tranny to ground, no? is that something that takes SERIOUS consideration to do? :ugh: :icon17:

I've heard that claim before on different vehicles. I can't verify it since I've only owned one car with an auto and its shifting and 0-60 was best measured by a calendar.

The grounding kit on my 02 civic helped it greatly, but I don't think it would do noticeable things to the Z. On the civic, every time the radiator fan comes on, the head lights dim, the radio/dash lights dim, etc.. Post grounding kit, I don't have these issues. The Z, IMO, is much better wired OEM than the 02 civic.

I'd think that it was more age related. Did it do that new, or just when it was old and tired?

I didn't own it new, but from my research, the stock grounding was very poor so the light dimming would occur from the factory.

EDIT: I will add I made my own 8 gauge grounding kit. cost $20

I agree that adding a grounding kit wouldn't hurt if the circuit design is sound. You are dealing with impedance and capacitance possibilities that could degrade and/or delay signal integrity. Most of the time this happens at the connector or terminal especially if exposed to the elements. Cleaning the contact surfaces would solve the issues if you could actually get to all of them. Since you probably can't then a grounding kit could help get your Z back to stock form.

Most electromechanical systems have a specification for point to point impedance levels (usually in milli-ohms) and this is what should be measured since there are too many variables involved with how this may or may not affect vehicle performance. You never know, someone in the assembly line could have used the wrong type of conductive grease and your car never reached it's stock performance level to begin with.

:driving:

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. ;)

It might be a relatively easy job but would still require me crawling under the car (I have jack stands but that still doesn't give a lot of working room). I'm a small guy but not that small. :)

If I were confident that it would make a difference, I'd be much more inclined to go to the trouble. As it is, all I have is one (un-scientific) positive result.