"Launching" the 7AT?
 

One part I miss about having a standard is being able to rev the engine up and dump the clutch for a great take-off...(think 1/4mile reaction time, where you can dump the clutch and your off, where the 7AT, you let off the brake and mash the gas - it's a few more steps!)

7AT, only thing I can think of comparible would be to dump from N to D - which I know is historically bad for transmissions :(

I've also tried holding the brake and mashing the gas, and that doesn't seem to help much (in fact, the engine bogs down and won't roll the tires (product of the viscous rear-end? Low-end Torque? Huge tires? Sport Package?) - which is a bit of a disappointment too ;)

I do have to say that there's not a whole lot more the (stock) tires can take, it easily will break them loose now just mashing the gas - so from a traction-limit perspective, it can't be improved that much...

Anyhow, any tips?

Get a 6MT?

Seriously though, I've found launching or more specifically TRACTION in the Z to be interesting. If I'm rolling forward and stomp the accelerator, the tires spin quietly (no squeal) and the back end will step out. However, if I rev to 3500RPM and quickly release the clutch, I get a wheel squealing takeoff. Why the tires spin without squeal in one situation, but squeal like crazy in another is beyond me.

Take your VDC off and it shouldnt bog. One of my old 350s was a 5AT and thats what I did and it worked pretty good. Hold the break and rev to about 2K in 1st in M mode.

The "off the line" launch is why I chose the auto, it launches on the street almost like it has slicks. I can smoke em thru the first two gears if I want but why? I feel this thing will do sub 2 sec. 60 foots at the strip. also it picked up a bunch of hp after 3000 miles.

Neutral into drive? I hope that was a joke!

If you want to warm up / clean the tires on the 7AT: turn off VDC, hold down the footbrake firmly, rev the engine up to ~3K-ish in 1st gear (using manual mode, not "D"), and then drop the brake and lay into the gas. Once you play with that a few times, you'll get a feel for what happens at different RPMs. A bit lower (closer to 2K, but will vary by car mods) and you can get a nice launch with hardly any wheelspin.

how detrimental is this to the car (transmission)?

For now you turn your VDC off and nail it. other choice if there's any a after market torque converter with a higher stall now that would really be fun.

Good onya kannibal, there is nothing quite like abusing your car or asking on this forum for ways to abuse your car. Oh well it is yiour car. I'd suggest put your foot as hard as you can on the brake then rev the engine up to 5,000 revs and release the brake. Do this every time from standstill, will not hurt the car at all.:rolleyes:

It's really not that bad on the car. It's the "rev in neutral and slam it into drive" method that's really dumb and abusive. Stalling against the torque converter really just overheats AT fluid more than anything afaik. I wouldn't do it all the time (I don't redline my car all day while driving around town either). But if you're gonna launch the stock 7AT at a drag strip, footbrake is the way to go. No more than 3K should be necc, probably less.

why not put the parking brake on too?

Now you were just joking right? Have you tried to do a burnout with the handbrake on? why not try it a let us know what happens.

I mean when you are holding the foot brake wouldn't the parking brake help hold the car still before the launch?

The answer is no the idea is foot-break to hold right before breaking the tires loose which would be around 2500 rpm or 3000 rpm and release. but i think because of off idle torque the rpm to launch might be lower.

just dont stall the converter for too long or youll burn up the clutches in the tq converter