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unsprung weight

Originally Posted by snowsurfdirtx It's kinda one of those things. Typically, the lighter the wheel the more the wheel costs. I'm SURE you can find something that fits your taste,

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Old 09-30-2013, 06:33 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by snowsurfdirtx View Post
It's kinda one of those things. Typically, the lighter the wheel the more the wheel costs. I'm SURE you can find something that fits your taste, but for me, weight + sexy wheels = 3000+ dollars. Not sure about the unsprung weight to sprung weight ratio but stuff like light wheels, drive shaft, flywheel, pulleys, etc can free up quite a bit of power. All about dat power:weight and how much you really want to spend
Rpf1's <$1300. Dropped 35lbs over all.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:51 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I just swapped my AME for RPF1's. 6lbs per wheel savings.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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On street I have a set of Foose 5-Speeds 19"x8.5" and 19"X 9.5". Absolutely beautiful chrome wheels. But they weigh about 25 lbs each.

For track I throw on Enkei RPF1's. Not as nice to look at but they weigh ~17lbs? each.

It is an absolute night and day difference in the feel and handling of the car.

If you are not going to track the car, then you honestly should just spend the money on looks and not performance. There is no reason to spend the money on lightweight racing wheels if all you are going to do is zoom zoom onto freeway ramps and drive your GF around.

Totally depends on what you want to do.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Yeah, I figure it wouldn't matter to me. I go the track like once a year, maybe twice. guy at the shop was telling me that the reduction in unsprung weight would make a difference I could feel in DD driving even which is why I am asking about it. I don't need every bit of performance, but if it makes the car noticeably more fun to drive normally, then I might be interested. He was telling me 1lb unsprung is like 16lbs sprung and Enkei's site says 1lb is like 20. if those numbers are true, then it could make a significant driving feel difference. Just trying to get real unbiased third party thoughts on it here.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:22 PM   #20 (permalink)
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i wouldn't get a wheel that would degrade the driving experience from stock. especially not on a car like the Z. if you want to play dress up, you should maybe get a G37C or G35C. that's a better date car anyway imo.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:35 PM   #21 (permalink)
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^Yeah, Rays says 1lb=15.

Now... If this is true, that means Spohn lost "750lbs"... Yeahhhhh, I doubt it's the SAME feeling. I'm sure it's like his car lost 200-300lbs, maybe even more, but 750 is a stretch...


You gotta just take it as it is, and for a DD. Just drive it. You already have 4.08s on an auto!
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Since I have spacers, which would be dropped, it's probably come out about even on weight to what I have now.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:41 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Just get whatever wheels you want, and get the S/C, wheel weight won't mean much after, lol
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:43 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I've been talked out of the SC.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:48 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
Just get whatever wheels you want, and get the S/C, wheel weight won't mean much after, lol
but usually you still need to stop. that's where the biggest difference is felt.... braking.
braking first, then more power mods if so desired.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:55 PM   #26 (permalink)
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265/295 RE11's 122lbs
265/295 PSS 106lbs

-16lbs unsprung weight ~ -240lbs
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:58 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I've been talked out of the SC.
Oh. Well then... Just do whatever makes you happy. I don't understand the rat race to have the best really...
You should want the best for yourself, yes, but AFTER what makes you happy.
You want 20's with a big āss lip that's chrome, do it, while 18" TE37's with PSS will weigh less and your car will be "n" seconds or "n" percent faster is good and dandy, but if you don't like TE37's, then who cares? Someone will always be faster and happier than you with THEIR set-up, Taylor make your car to what you enjoy while you have it.


And going back to your other threads and thoughts on making the car faster, if you have the money, and you want it faster for YOURSELF, just buy the headers, don't wait on other dynos, just do it, it will be better than stock. And at the same time, know that the 4.08 gears on the auto negates, or is worth a LOT more in the way of acceleration than many of the mods you CAN do. I bet 50lbs of unsprung weight is about the same as the jump in gear ratio.

But yeah, unsprung weight is the final frontier.


And brother, I kind of fear that you'll forever fall into the trap of wanting faster, and at the end of the day, the 370Z is NOT the fastest car you can buy, not even for the money. I don't think it's worth the effort to keep trying to make it better with no end or not being happy with it.





Sorry for the long post, maybe I'm retarded and sorry if I'm being redundant.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:00 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
but usually you still need to stop. that's where the biggest difference is felt.... braking.
braking first, then more power mods if so desired.
FELT? Or actuality? And by how much?

Again, with the sport package, the brakes are PLENTY enough to lock up the wheels, no matter the weight of the wheels or the car.
And if you can lock up the wheels, tires is next for braking distance.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:01 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by critical View Post
265/295 RE11's 122lbs
265/295 PSS 106lbs

-16lbs unsprung weight ~ -240lbs
That's using 15lbs as a rule, which I think is a bit extreme
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:02 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I don't want to be the fastest. I want fun that I can feel which is why i am asking if the reduction in unsprung weight makes a difference that a DD driven car can actually feel. But its a little hard to buy something that you know will actually be detrimental to your performance even if you might not notice it.
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