Break-In a New Car

Gurps · 08-31-2011, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakes709

Drive it like you stole it. Thats how you break it in. I got my evo with 25km on it. Wen to the drag strip that night. Just past 4000kms and did my first time attack race the other. Night and the ca runs amazing.

Nice to hear! Good luck with her!

11Thumper · 08-31-2011, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gurps

You are right...it does not make a difference now and no offense taken.

My car is a auto. All I did was punch the gas for a second and the car took off. I wanted to see how quick it accelerated. This was during my test drive. I remember the rpms shooting up to 7000 before coming right down as I slowed down right away. I just find it amazing that you can buy a car without driving it and testing to see how it handles and how much power it has etc.

When you guys test drove your cars, did you not drive them somewhat hard?

As for the salesperson. Yes I did believe him. I had no reason not too.

If that's all you did should be fine. And no, I don't trash new cars when I test drive them regardless if I end up buying one. It doesn't belong to me.

ImportConvert · 09-01-2011, 03:41 AM

How to properly break in a new car:

Most of the break-in you are doing is for the gears in the transmission, and rear-end as well as the wheel-bearings, clutch, and brakes.

Avoid "shocking the driveline for about 1500 miles. This means no clutch-drops or power-shifts.

Avoid taking the car above 4-5K rpm for about 500 miles.

DO travel at varying rates of speed and through all gears, applying various acceleration/decerlation loading. A perfect example is light traffic in a 50mph city-zone, using engine-braking to aid in deceleration. Or you can get on the free way and do 50-70 sprints/decels in various gears, taking care not to rev the engine to hard for the first few hundred miles. The brakes and clutch will not benefit much, though.

This will allow the brakes to seat, the rings in the engine to seat (no, they are not fully seated from the factory. My Z06 burned a bit of oil for the first couple-hundred miles, now, not a drop in over 2500). It will also lap in the gears in the transmission and differential.

The clutch will break in at different mileages depending on stop-go traffic. You make have it broken in in 25 miles if you went through Houston when they were working on 59. You make not have it broken in int 2500 miles if you do a cross-country drive on major highways leaving it in 6th the whole time.

The reason for loading the driveline in acceleration/deceleration is because this creates a vacuum in the cylinders, sucking the rings to the wall. It also makes sure both faces of the gears in the driveline are lapped in and mesh well with each other.

This is how I broke in my Z06, and it shifts smoothly, doesn't burn a drop of oil, and works great.

My mechanic broke in my mustang gt's new crate engine by letting it idle in his shop for 30 minutes and then beating the crap out of it. It burned 1qt of 15-40 oil every 800-1000 miles.

DLSTR · 09-01-2011, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImportConvert

How to properly break in a new car:

Most of the break-in you are doing is for the gears in the transmission, and rear-end as well as the wheel-bearings, clutch, and brakes.

Avoid "shocking the driveline for about 1500 miles. This means no clutch-drops or power-shifts.

Avoid taking the car above 4-5K rpm for about 500 miles.

DO travel at varying rates of speed and through all gears, applying various acceleration/decerlation loading. A perfect example is light traffic in a 50mph city-zone, using engine-braking to aid in deceleration. Or you can get on the free way and do 50-70 sprints/decels in various gears, taking care not to rev the engine to hard for the first few hundred miles. The brakes and clutch will not benefit much, though.

This will allow the brakes to seat, the rings in the engine to seat (no, they are not fully seated from the factory. My Z06 burned a bit of oil for the first couple-hundred miles, now, not a drop in over 2500). It will also lap in the gears in the transmission and differential.

The clutch will break in at different mileages depending on stop-go traffic. You make have it broken in in 25 miles if you went through Houston when they were working on 59. You make not have it broken in int 2500 miles if you do a cross-country drive on major highways leaving it in 6th the whole time.

The reason for loading the driveline in acceleration/deceleration is because this creates a vacuum in the cylinders, sucking the rings to the wall. It also makes sure both faces of the gears in the driveline are lapped in and mesh well with each other.

This is how I broke in my Z06, and it shifts smoothly, doesn't burn a drop of oil, and works great.

My mechanic broke in my mustang gt's new crate engine by letting it idle in his shop for 30 minutes and then beating the crap out of it. It burned 1qt of 15-40 oil every 800-1000 miles.

Nice post, rational and thought out. The best one in the thread. Read and heed.

Gurps · 09-01-2011, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 11Thumper

If that's all you did should be fine. And no, I don't trash new cars when I test drive them regardless if I end up buying one. It doesn't belong to me.

I never said trash new cars. Everyone test drives a car before they buy it. Not "trashes it".

Some people are just born angry I guess.

Gurps · 09-01-2011, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImportConvert

How to properly break in a new car:

Most of the break-in you are doing is for the gears in the transmission, and rear-end as well as the wheel-bearings, clutch, and brakes.

Avoid "shocking the driveline for about 1500 miles. This means no clutch-drops or power-shifts.

Avoid taking the car above 4-5K rpm for about 500 miles.

DO travel at varying rates of speed and through all gears, applying various acceleration/decerlation loading. A perfect example is light traffic in a 50mph city-zone, using engine-braking to aid in deceleration. Or you can get on the free way and do 50-70 sprints/decels in various gears, taking care not to rev the engine to hard for the first few hundred miles. The brakes and clutch will not benefit much, though.

This will allow the brakes to seat, the rings in the engine to seat (no, they are not fully seated from the factory. My Z06 burned a bit of oil for the first couple-hundred miles, now, not a drop in over 2500). It will also lap in the gears in the transmission and differential.

The clutch will break in at different mileages depending on stop-go traffic. You make have it broken in in 25 miles if you went through Houston when they were working on 59. You make not have it broken in int 2500 miles if you do a cross-country drive on major highways leaving it in 6th the whole time.

The reason for loading the driveline in acceleration/deceleration is because this creates a vacuum in the cylinders, sucking the rings to the wall. It also makes sure both faces of the gears in the driveline are lapped in and mesh well with each other.

This is how I broke in my Z06, and it shifts smoothly, doesn't burn a drop of oil, and works great.

My mechanic broke in my mustang gt's new crate engine by letting it idle in his shop for 30 minutes and then beating the crap out of it. It burned 1qt of 15-40 oil every 800-1000 miles.

Well Said! As a side note, I just realized I never took it up to 7000rpm, it was more like 5000. I don't know why I thought 7000, got hoem last night and looekd at the RPM's and realized it was more in btw 5-6.

11Thumper · 09-01-2011, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gurps

Some people are just born angry I guess.

Some people know how to read a manual I guess...

Gurps · 09-01-2011, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 11Thumper

Some people know how to read a manual I guess...

Funny how you go out of your way to post and bring negativity. I simply asked a question on a forum where questions are to be asked.

You seem to have issues in your life where you need to come on to a forum and take time out of your day to be negative. hopefully you deal with those issues one day.

11Thumper · 09-01-2011, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gurps

Funny how you go out of your way to post and bring negativity. I simply asked a question on a forum where questions are to be asked.

You seem to have issues in your life where you need to come on to a forum and take time out of your day to be negative. hopefully you deal with those issues one day.

Thanks, I feel better already.

wdkwang · 09-01-2011, 04:29 PM

drive it like you stole it
not joking

mantella87 · 09-01-2011, 04:31 PM

Bought mine with 13 miles, broke it in per owner's manual. 1,200 miles without exceeding 4,000 RPMs. I'm at 2,800 miles now and have had the car for over 2 months. Haven't burned a drop of oil that I can tell.

|samu · 07-26-2012, 09:32 AM

Break it in with boost

370zbb · 08-01-2012, 03:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImportConvert

How to properly break in a new car:

Most of the break-in you are doing is for the gears in the transmission, and rear-end as well as the wheel-bearings, clutch, and brakes.

Avoid "shocking the driveline for about 1500 miles. This means no clutch-drops or power-shifts.

Avoid taking the car above 4-5K rpm for about 500 miles.

DO travel at varying rates of speed and through all gears, applying various acceleration/decerlation loading. A perfect example is light traffic in a 50mph city-zone, using engine-braking to aid in deceleration. Or you can get on the free way and do 50-70 sprints/decels in various gears, taking care not to rev the engine to hard for the first few hundred miles. The brakes and clutch will not benefit much, though.

This will allow the brakes to seat, the rings in the engine to seat (no, they are not fully seated from the factory. My Z06 burned a bit of oil for the first couple-hundred miles, now, not a drop in over 2500). It will also lap in the gears in the transmission and differential.

The clutch will break in at different mileages depending on stop-go traffic. You make have it broken in in 25 miles if you went through Houston when they were working on 59. You make not have it broken in int 2500 miles if you do a cross-country drive on major highways leaving it in 6th the whole time.

The reason for loading the driveline in acceleration/deceleration is because this creates a vacuum in the cylinders, sucking the rings to the wall. It also makes sure both faces of the gears in the driveline are lapped in and mesh well with each other.

This is how I broke in my Z06, and it shifts smoothly, doesn't burn a drop of oil, and works great.

My mechanic broke in my mustang gt's new crate engine by letting it idle in his shop for 30 minutes and then beating the crap out of it. It burned 1qt of 15-40 oil every 800-1000 miles.

Thanks you for the advice! Anymore?

dcpatters · 08-01-2012, 04:37 PM

From AMS

http://amsperformance.com/instructio...structions.pdf

09-01-2011, 04:29 PM	#85 (permalink)
wdkwang Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: N/A Posts: 899 Drives: slidewayz Rep Power: 21	drive it like you stole it not joking __________________ Powerhouse Amuse \| K&N Typhoon Intakes \| MotorDyne ART Pipes \| Borla Catback Exhaust \| B&M Short Shifter \| Intake Ducts \| Ichiba 25mm F/R Spacers \| Carbon Fiber Interior Vinyl Wrap \| Tints \| 10000k HIDs \| Vtak, yo!

09-01-2011, 03:41 AM	#78 (permalink)
ImportConvert A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: SWMO Posts: 4,454 Drives: 2019 CX5 GT Reserve Rep Power: 7627	How to properly break in a new car: Most of the break-in you are doing is for the gears in the transmission, and rear-end as well as the wheel-bearings, clutch, and brakes. Avoid "shocking the driveline for about 1500 miles. This means no clutch-drops or power-shifts. Avoid taking the car above 4-5K rpm for about 500 miles. DO travel at varying rates of speed and through all gears, applying various acceleration/decerlation loading. A perfect example is light traffic in a 50mph city-zone, using engine-braking to aid in deceleration. Or you can get on the free way and do 50-70 sprints/decels in various gears, taking care not to rev the engine to hard for the first few hundred miles. The brakes and clutch will not benefit much, though. This will allow the brakes to seat, the rings in the engine to seat (no, they are not fully seated from the factory. My Z06 burned a bit of oil for the first couple-hundred miles, now, not a drop in over 2500). It will also lap in the gears in the transmission and differential. The clutch will break in at different mileages depending on stop-go traffic. You make have it broken in in 25 miles if you went through Houston when they were working on 59. You make not have it broken in int 2500 miles if you do a cross-country drive on major highways leaving it in 6th the whole time. The reason for loading the driveline in acceleration/deceleration is because this creates a vacuum in the cylinders, sucking the rings to the wall. It also makes sure both faces of the gears in the driveline are lapped in and mesh well with each other. This is how I broke in my Z06, and it shifts smoothly, doesn't burn a drop of oil, and works great. My mechanic broke in my mustang gt's new crate engine by letting it idle in his shop for 30 minutes and then beating the crap out of it. It burned 1qt of 15-40 oil every 800-1000 miles.

09-01-2011, 04:31 PM	#86 (permalink)
mantella87 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 590 Drives: 2011 Z34 MT Rep Power: 15	Bought mine with 13 miles, broke it in per owner's manual. 1,200 miles without exceeding 4,000 RPMs. I'm at 2,800 miles now and have had the car for over 2 months. Haven't burned a drop of oil that I can tell.

07-26-2012, 09:32 AM	#87 (permalink)
\|samu Banned Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Minot Posts: 69 Drives: NISMO T Rep Power: 0	Break it in with boost

08-01-2012, 04:37 PM	#89 (permalink)
dcpatters Base Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Irvine, CA Posts: 38 Drives: '12 Nissan 370Z M6 Rep Power: 13	From AMS http://amsperformance.com/instructio...structions.pdf