My motor is dropped, what parts would you change?

critical · 08-15-2013, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

Oil cooler while its there? Nothing crazy if you aren't tracking it, but while its out, why not?

Trans fluid cooler is probably not a bad idea (isn't there a stock one?) but again if not tracking it or boosting it, no need to over cool.

There is a stock one. There's a line that runs to and from the radiator for the 7at trans fluid.

Couldn't find any install instructions for a cooler but it looks like it'd be just rerouting to a cooler than back to the rad or viseversa.

wstar · 08-15-2013, 01:52 PM

On the mounts, it's all about being able to feel the car better. There's a certain amount of flex between the trans and engine themselves, even, and there's a fair amount of flex in the mounts of both to the frame of the car. When you're trying to control traction at the limit, it's all about being able to "feel" the car.

Basically your butt planted in the seat is getting feedback from the car. Your gas pedal is input to the car. The brake pedal and steering wheel are dual-purpose, they're inputs and you also feel feedback through them. In the same way that stiffer suspension makes that feedback loop work better for corner forces, stiffer motor/trans mounts make it work better for wheel slip during acceleration. You'll feel the direct impact of your gas pedal and steering angle adjustments under acceleration faster and more accurately (back through your butt and the steering wheel), so that you can make better and faster adjustments to keep it right where it should be.

The motor mounts are kind of a bitch to install with the engine in the car. I mean, it's doable, but it would be so much easier to do it while the engine's out. The trans mount you could do anytime, it's very trivial and nothing really comes out of the car to do it.

ShutokuZ · 08-15-2013, 03:23 PM

Not sure how stiffer motor mounts would feel on a Z, but on my Evo, I had the front and rear mounts changed to 90A poly ones, and it caused strong cabin vibrations. I imagine the Z would absorb more of that however.

Jordo! · 08-15-2013, 04:40 PM

Firmer mounts = more vibration... also I have seen a few broken solid mounts for the Z, so I'd do some extra research before buying...

In theory, it's less torque lost and thus faster driveline response. You won't see it on a dyno, but as wstar noted, you will FEEL it when you throttle on.

At idle you'll feel it too, tho'...

If you don't mind some extra vibration, and they won't crack, sure why not?

andre12031948 · 08-15-2013, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

So my motor has been dropped to replace a valve head.
So I figure now is the time to install parts...

I have most standard bolt ons, but as of now, I'm thinking:

I decided FOR
Momentum headers
Change all hoses to blue silicone
Change all fluids

I decided AGAINST:
Jun Cams because no one has data
TT or S/C because I don't have that much money
CSF radiator because I don't track on death hot days and I'm not TT or S/C
Mishimoto thermostat because I don't want a CEL or over cooling

To be decided (have to do more research into it):
Larger PS cooler
Transmission cooler
G35/37 thermostat

As for both the mods suggested above, I'd love a PS cooler that can be almost a direct swap, making it easier for the techs to do, and I'd love to see a really good detailed install of a trans cooler

I believe there is a G35/37 OEM thermostat that opens 10 degrees sooner, and supposedly it won't cause a CEL.

Any suggestions or info would be greatly appreciated!

And please don't suggest, bore it out to 4.0L or dry sump or something to that effect, I don't have the time or money for that

Your not on the drag racing list. So did you damage the head road racing? I would get something/do something so the valve head won't get damaged again. Not easy to damage a valve head. What happened?

wstar · 08-15-2013, 05:22 PM

The Z1 Urethane versions aren't too bad. The car doesn't seem to be trying to shake itself apart or anything. But then again my car environment is pretty harsh in general, maybe I'm not the best judge

Chuck33079 · 08-15-2013, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andre12031948

Your not on the drag racing list. So did you damage the head road racing? I would get something/do something so the valve head won't get damaged again. Not easy to damage a valve head. What happened?

The last dealer to work on it dropped a manifold nut into the head and lunched a valve.

andre12031948 · 08-15-2013, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

The last dealer to work on it dropped a manifold nut into the head and lunched a valve.

Wow! They had to try hard to do that

How do you know?

Chuck33079 · 08-15-2013, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andre12031948

Wow! They had to try hard to do that

How do you know?

He's got a long thread on it.

2xtreme1 · 08-15-2013, 11:15 PM

You lost me at. "My motor is dropped" o,o
Ummm don't forget to change the oil ?

DEpointfive0 · 08-16-2013, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2xtreme1

You lost me at. "My motor is dropped" o,o
Ummm don't forget to change the oil ?

?

My motor is currently outside the car
And man I'd LMAO if they don't change the oil.

2xtreme1 · 08-16-2013, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

?

My motor is currently outside the car
And man I'd LMAO if they don't change the oil.

Lol, I'm just a noob when it comes to car parts especially the engine haha

chrischhorn · 08-16-2013, 12:25 AM

You should install the Momentum headers I was unable to get off in time......

Leuz · 08-16-2013, 12:51 AM

Why not straight to F.I. LTH?

DEpointfive0 · 08-16-2013, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrischhorn

You should install the Momentum headers I was unable to get off in time......

FARK!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leuz

Why not straight to F.I. LTH?

Welllllllll... I like the ability to go from TPs to cats and such...

08-15-2013, 01:52 PM	#17 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	On the mounts, it's all about being able to feel the car better. There's a certain amount of flex between the trans and engine themselves, even, and there's a fair amount of flex in the mounts of both to the frame of the car. When you're trying to control traction at the limit, it's all about being able to "feel" the car. Basically your butt planted in the seat is getting feedback from the car. Your gas pedal is input to the car. The brake pedal and steering wheel are dual-purpose, they're inputs and you also feel feedback through them. In the same way that stiffer suspension makes that feedback loop work better for corner forces, stiffer motor/trans mounts make it work better for wheel slip during acceleration. You'll feel the direct impact of your gas pedal and steering angle adjustments under acceleration faster and more accurately (back through your butt and the steering wheel), so that you can make better and faster adjustments to keep it right where it should be. The motor mounts are kind of a bitch to install with the engine in the car. I mean, it's doable, but it would be so much easier to do it while the engine's out. The trans mount you could do anytime, it's very trivial and nothing really comes out of the car to do it. XwChriswX likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-15-2013, 03:23 PM	#18 (permalink)
ShutokuZ Track Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Honolulu Posts: 512 Drives: 2013 PW 6MT Sport Rep Power: 13	Not sure how stiffer motor mounts would feel on a Z, but on my Evo, I had the front and rear mounts changed to 90A poly ones, and it caused strong cabin vibrations. I imagine the Z would absorb more of that however. cossie1600 and roy'sz like this.

08-15-2013, 04:40 PM	#19 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 418	Firmer mounts = more vibration... also I have seen a few broken solid mounts for the Z, so I'd do some extra research before buying... In theory, it's less torque lost and thus faster driveline response. You won't see it on a dyno, but as wstar noted, you will FEEL it when you throttle on. At idle you'll feel it too, tho'... If you don't mind some extra vibration, and they won't crack, sure why not? XwChriswX likes this. __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it.

08-15-2013, 05:22 PM	#21 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	The Z1 Urethane versions aren't too bad. The car doesn't seem to be trying to shake itself apart or anything. But then again my car environment is pretty harsh in general, maybe I'm not the best judge __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-16-2013, 12:25 AM	#28 (permalink)
chrischhorn A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Mililani, HI Posts: 1,566 Drives: 2014 Juke Nismo RS Rep Power: 16	You should install the Momentum headers I was unable to get off in time...... __________________ R.I.P. 8/01/13 1SlowZ One day I'll have another....

08-15-2013, 11:15 PM	#25 (permalink)
2xtreme1 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Eastvale, California Age: 32 Posts: 494 Drives: 11' 370Z 7 A/T Sport Rep Power: 13	You lost me at. "My motor is dropped" o,o Ummm don't forget to change the oil ?

08-16-2013, 12:51 AM	#29 (permalink)
Leuz Track Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: NorCal Posts: 555 Drives: Bunny Rep Power: 13	Why not straight to F.I. LTH? __________________ 2013 PW 370Z Touring+Sport, NAV Tint 35% side, 18% back \| RJM clutch pedal \| ZSpeed SS lines \| Stillen Gen3 CAI \| Fast Intentions HFC and TDX 12'' CF CBE \| UpRev

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