Originally Posted by scruffydog I honestly think you have more smiles w/ NA mods over the long period of time rather than boom! drop hell of $$$ on FI all
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08-28-2013, 08:14 AM | #91 (permalink) | |
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It takes a lot longer to feel like you need more power when you add 150 whp than when you add 10. It does happen eventually, but that's true for anything. Unless you drive to work in a F1 car, everything you drive every day will eventually feel slow. The only way around that is to buy an actual slow car for a daily driver.
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08-28-2013, 08:21 AM | #92 (permalink) |
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Your right and you can't argue with that. For me personally I just need to go faster no matter what the long haul is motor wise. I felt my car was getting slower or I was just getting used to it. Going FI only going to benefit on the straights. But right now I just want to get back on the track. I miss my car. But I have done a ton of mods to body of the car. Shaving weight. Removing brackets. A lot of simplifying. I took up Karting also. So that's been a blast.
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08-28-2013, 02:18 PM | #93 (permalink) | |
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Keeping my Z stock, and modding my subie for stg 2. Want to see if I can save $10K for FI Sooooo, like you said to remedy this, I drive a 2005 Civic as my beater so when I get into my Z or Subie I get smiles all the time |
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08-28-2013, 02:22 PM | #94 (permalink) |
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Exactly. If you're daily driver is slow, your weekend car always feels like a rocket ship, no modding needed. When I had my STI, my daily was a salvage titled 1990 Volvo 940 nonturbo. It would have been faster if I removed the motor and pulled it with a team of horses. But everytime I got into the STI, it scared me at first until I got used to the power again.
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08-28-2013, 09:40 PM | #95 (permalink) |
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Hmm, these words ring with truth. Maybe the 2.0 Mazda3 would be fine after all instead of dropping 3k extra for the 2.5. I hate when the nicer engine is only offered in higher models and grouped with a bunch of stuff i don't need.
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08-29-2013, 12:17 AM | #97 (permalink) |
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I'm still in the camp that believes that you can make forced induction rock solid reliable. I believe that if you can get the setup to run more efficiently, rather than going for higher boost numbers and mad timing advance, you can make the same power.
This would include the exhaust, larger downpipes, external wastegates, the new GT-R manifold conversion, and things people don't realize, like lightweight flywheel / pullies, and coated turbo manifolds and little things here and there. Not to mention meth injection or E85. If you can turn down the boost pressure, or reduce timing and still make the same power after adding these things, you've made the car that much more reliable. Plus, keeping the car cool with higher oil capacity and large oil coolers will help. Short of building the motor, I'd say the VQ37 is pretty stout.
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08-29-2013, 06:48 AM | #98 (permalink) |
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I wonder about the oil. Even with the extra capacity Ive always wondered if the oil passages in the block are big enough. And by them not allow more flow rapidly the oil just stays heated.
Ill be running the GTM pan obviously, 34R, 7.5" Spal fan, and custom venting.
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08-29-2013, 01:18 PM | #99 (permalink) | |
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, the VQ37VHR is a very solid engine, the most solid i've seen that can be modded without expected headaches, but that goes back to the 350z's VQ 3.5 liter engine as well. Everyone i know with Porsche's or BMW's have to get tunes for every performance upgrade including aftermarket exhaust upgrades. I love how there's only "one" ecu and it's adaptable, always liked how Nissan never thought twice about adding more than one, less chance of electrical malfunctions. Also, with VQ series engines you know the rule, 2 breather mods max, anything after that you need a tune.
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08-29-2013, 01:23 PM | #100 (permalink) | |
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08-29-2013, 01:59 PM | #101 (permalink) | |
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08-29-2013, 10:34 PM | #105 (permalink) |
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I've spent more than $10k and didn't even gained a single pony
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