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Another thing that's bothersome about a stock Z is knowing about 90% of cars on the road can keep up in a straight line. I want links on someone quick.
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The OP is the one doing it right...the rest of you guys putting down these 20k builds just blows my mind.
A subtle NA 370z with a 100 shot would give those sub 500 cars a run for your money easily! Plus one driver is going to be feathering the throttle because he's scared of the "boom" |
I'm happy for you...
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This includes YOU ^^^^^^^
This has been cleaned of all the Off Topic Replies. Im going to ask that folks Please Keep it on Topic! Thank You. |
^ moody today. Why not clean up my last post also (#83)?
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And Im sorry if Im coming off that way. But this took a ricochet, And I just wanted it to stay on track. I did say Please :icon17: Back on Topic! I wish I could afford going FI so I have to settle with bolt ons :( |
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But it is N/A |
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FI is the only way to go. I think I finally learned my lesson with my G and I won't be modding my next car unless I save for a TT. |
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it's not dumb to drop money on the NA mods - we all go thru it, i'm going thru it myself and every now and then I think about wanting to go FI simply because I want the 370z to be faster. I honestly think you have more smiles w/ NA mods over the long period of time rather than boom! drop hell of $$$ on FI all at once after several of weeks in waiting for the FI install you'll be like, I still want more power.
Spoon, you seem to track your car A LOT. I hear a lot of people saying if you drive it on the street than go with NA and if you track than FI. I almost want to say the complete opposite. If you spend most of your time at the track, you should stick with NA mods rather than FI. This could depends how long and how hard you track. I feel that the track is where you'd break more components when you push the car at its limit. Unfortunately, all OEM parts have a different safety factor margin, some can handle 50hp+, some can handle, 100hp+, or 200hp+, etc when they designed the car. While some supporting mods might be simple to get, some could be very difficult to almost impossible unless you redesign a portion of your car from a clean drawing board. I admire a lot of aftermarket companies making a FI work given the limitations of what they have to work with. At the end of the day, I am excited to see you or another person making a track demon that's FI and track worthy. |
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It takes a lot longer to feel like you need more power when you add 150 whp than when you add 10. It does happen eventually, but that's true for anything. Unless you drive to work in a F1 car, everything you drive every day will eventually feel slow. The only way around that is to buy an actual slow car for a daily driver. |
Your right and you can't argue with that. For me personally I just need to go faster no matter what the long haul is motor wise. I felt my car was getting slower or I was just getting used to it. Going FI only going to benefit on the straights. But right now I just want to get back on the track. I miss my car. But I have done a ton of mods to body of the car. Shaving weight. Removing brackets. A lot of simplifying. I took up Karting also. So that's been a blast.
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Keeping my Z stock, and modding my subie for stg 2. Want to see if I can save $10K for FI :eekdance::eekdance: Sooooo, like you said to remedy this, I drive a 2005 Civic as my beater so when I get into my Z or Subie I get smiles all the time :inoutroflpuke: |
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Hmm, these words ring with truth. Maybe the 2.0 Mazda3 would be fine after all instead of dropping 3k extra for the 2.5. I hate when the nicer engine is only offered in higher models and grouped with a bunch of stuff i don't need.
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I'm still in the camp that believes that you can make forced induction rock solid reliable. I believe that if you can get the setup to run more efficiently, rather than going for higher boost numbers and mad timing advance, you can make the same power.
This would include the exhaust, larger downpipes, external wastegates, the new GT-R manifold conversion, and things people don't realize, like lightweight flywheel / pullies, and coated turbo manifolds and little things here and there. Not to mention meth injection or E85. If you can turn down the boost pressure, or reduce timing and still make the same power after adding these things, you've made the car that much more reliable. Plus, keeping the car cool with higher oil capacity and large oil coolers will help. Short of building the motor, I'd say the VQ37 is pretty stout. |
I wonder about the oil. Even with the extra capacity Ive always wondered if the oil passages in the block are big enough. And by them not allow more flow rapidly the oil just stays heated.
Ill be running the GTM pan obviously, 34R, 7.5" Spal fan, and custom venting. |
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:iagree:, the VQ37VHR is a very solid engine, the most solid i've seen that can be modded without expected headaches, but that goes back to the 350z's VQ 3.5 liter engine as well. Everyone i know with Porsche's or BMW's have to get tunes for every performance upgrade including aftermarket exhaust upgrades. I love how there's only "one" ecu and it's adaptable, always liked how Nissan never thought twice about adding more than one, less chance of electrical malfunctions. Also, with VQ series engines you know the rule, 2 breather mods max, anything after that you need a tune.:happydance: |
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That's the plan. I'm in a F it mode now.
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400 plus WHP with NA? Running cool? On stock ECU and VQ37 heads? Under $10k. Please tell me it isn't so. :hello:
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I've spent more than $10k and didn't even gained a single pony :roflpuke2:
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Its all phychological. People spend 300 bucks at a time because they don't want to spend 6k at once or they don't have it. Second would be they don't want to wait and save money until the amount of 6k is reached. Bieng impatient. This is probably the primary reason for this. Come to find out at the end they blew 7k over a period of time. Its easier said then done by then since they've already spent that amount. Its harder to tell yourself well I have to wait till I reach 7k two years from now or what ever.
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