Jack Stand Question

spearfish25 · 07-23-2009, 04:07 PM

So I've decided to do my own oil changes and perhaps tackle some bolt-ons in the future. I bought two pairs of jack stands to get the car off the ground. Then while unpacking them, I see the label on the stands which says "should be used in pairs on ONE END OF THE VEHICLE ONLY. Should not be used on both ends together."

WTF? I was hoping I could get the car off the ground and level to empty the oil pan more thoroughly. Do you guys put jack stands on all four corners or just a pair in the front?

On a side note, it's a little creepy crawling under the jacked up car...lots of creaks and groans when it was going up. Boy would it suck if it came back down when I was under it...

Florida_GATOR · 07-23-2009, 04:12 PM

That would suck, talk about a world of

lol

Modshack · 07-23-2009, 04:14 PM

Just buy a set of Ramps....I used these for years before buying my lift. The car does not need to be level for most access and maintenance..

Stands are always handy to have and there may be a time when you need all four wheels off the ground. A good jack, 4 jack stands and a set of ramps will cover most of your needs..

spearfish25 · 07-23-2009, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Just buy a set of Ramps....I used these for years before buying my lift. The car does not need to be level for most access and maintenance..

Well, given the small issue of clearing the front chin spoiler with ramps, I went with a floor jack and jack stands. I feel committed now. But, I assume your advice still holds...just put jack stands in the front and forget lifting the rear at the same time.

wstar · 07-23-2009, 04:22 PM

I've never seen that before. Is it because they're under-rated weight-wise or something, or don't have very stable bases? Most of the standard jack stands available at auto parts stores or Sears or whatever work fine for holding up all 4 corners of the car. You do have to be careful about placement though: they need to be placed somewhere that they can seat solidly, and that's design to carry the car's load and not damage anything.

Somewhere on these forums, someone showed how to mod a hockey puck so that you can use the "edge" mounting points that were designed for the trunk emergency jack with regular jacks/stands.

Personally, I set my front ones as far forward as you can go on the two main frame rails under the car just before they curve upwards (these are the obvious wide pair of solid metal beams running the length of the car, considerably inboard from the outer edges), and the rears on the rear suspension arms (like you can see in over here in this swaybar install thread: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...tion-rear.html )

wstar · 07-23-2009, 04:25 PM

As far as getting the car up goes, even my current low-profile jack won't reach under the front spoiler far enough to get to the recommended jacking point under the center. I've lately been using a hybrid approach when I need all 4 wheels off the ground (like brake-related stuff): I drive onto my rhino ramps using boards to assist clearance, then jack the front of the car up off the ramps and switch the front to jack-stands, and then go around to the back and jack that up and put jack stands under it.

(I really need to just get a lift

)

spearfish25 · 07-23-2009, 04:31 PM

My jack stands are the run-of-the-mill Torin 2 ton version. They have the 'teeth' on the adjustable pillar that the car rests on along with a metal pin as a secondary safety.

My guess is that I just read the fine print, but perhaps everyone uses these on the 4 corners regardless. Since the jack won't make it under the front lift point, I guess I'll be doing the two front corners individually and then the back as a single lift at the end.

Anyone have a pic they can label with where they place the jack for lifting each front corner? Wstar, is the beam you're talking about the same one as the 'lip' the manual says to place the jack on? Looking at the little circular disc on my floor jack, I can easily get the disc's edges to seat in the grooves on the edge where the emergency jack is supposed to seat.

Modshack · 07-23-2009, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

Well, given the small issue of clearing the front chin spoiler with ramps, I went with a floor jack and jack stands. I feel committed now. But, I assume your advice still holds...just put jack stands in the front and forget lifting the rear at the same time.

You just need some low profile approach extensions (or some 2x lumber)
Raceramps makes a nice (although pricey) low approach ramp set-up. I've had these (some cheesemo brand) for 30 years..

spearfish25 · 07-23-2009, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

You just need some low profile approach extensions (or some 2x lumber)
Raceramps makes a nice (although pricey) low approach ramp set-up. I've had these (some cheesemo brand) for 30 years..

Nice, though my wife would rather me risk being crushed under the car with jack stands than have me bring those ramps into our condo to store them!

wstar · 07-23-2009, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

My jack stands are the run-of-the-mill Torin 2 ton version. They have the 'teeth' on the adjustable pillar that the car rests on along with a metal pin as a secondary safety.

My guess is that I just read the fine print, but perhaps everyone uses these on the 4 corners regardless. Since the jack won't make it under the front lift point, I guess I'll be doing the two front corners individually and then the back as a single lift at the end.

Anyone have a pic they can label with where they place the jack for lifting each front corner? Wstar, is the beam you're talking about the same one as the 'lip' the manual says to place the jack on? Looking at the little circular disc on my floor jack, I can easily get the disc's edges to seat in the grooves on the edge where the emergency jack is supposed to seat.

No, the beams I'm talking about that I use for the front are way inside from those outer edge lips where the emergency jack is meant to mount. You will see them, they have squarish edges and make a long run down the length of the car before disappearing upwards towards the engine bay. They're the actual frame of the car. I like them because, being the frame itself, they can handle the weight fine without deforming, and they give a nice solid flat surface that's just the right width for my jackstand heads.

m4a1mustang · 07-23-2009, 04:40 PM

Any of you guys know if you need to have all 4 off the ground for a CBE and/or HFC install or if you can get by with the front or rear up at one time.

spearfish25 · 07-23-2009, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

No, the beams I'm talking about that I use for the front are way inside from those outer edge lips where the emergency jack is meant to mount. You will see them, they have squarish edges and make a long run down the length of the car before disappearing upwards towards the engine bay. They're the actual frame of the car. I like them because, being the frame itself, they can handle the weight fine without deforming, and they give a nice solid flat surface that's just the right width for my jackstand heads.

So if you weren't jacking the front of the car from a center point, would you place the floor jack on the 'edge' where the manual states first...then slide the jack stands under the other beams you mention? Those little egdes don't seem all that robust, but I don't know where else my low profile floor jack will reach.

spearfish25 · 07-23-2009, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang

Any of you guys know if you need to have all 4 off the ground for a CBE and/or HFC install or if you can get by with the front or rear up at one time.

Just looking at it today, it looks like it would be challenging even with all 4 off the ground. Then again, my clearance is only about 14"...couldn't afford a jack and stands that will reach 22".

wstar · 07-23-2009, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang

Any of you guys know if you need to have all 4 off the ground for a CBE and/or HFC install or if you can get by with the front or rear up at one time.

I did all of my CBE work with just the front on ramps, but the rear part is a bit challenging that way, you have to slide back under some very cramped space for the rear stuff. I got out from under the car and did the final flanges (on the Stillen, back by the muffler) from behind rather than underneath.

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

So if you weren't jacking the front of the car from a center point, would you place the floor jack on the 'edge' where the manual states first...then slide the jack stands under the other beams you mention? Those little egdes don't seem all that robust, but I don't know where else my low profile floor jack will reach.

That edge is perfectly fine robustness-wise, when mated with the emergency jack itself, or a jack or jack stand that replicates the same surface design close enough (that is, it needs to be a pretty small surface with a deep groove down the center to avoid putting any weight on that actual lip). My jacks and stands don't fit correctly there though, and I haven't tried the hockey puck method (which is basically, cut a groove down the middle of a hockey puck and use that between your jack and the lip where the e-jack goes).

JB1 · 07-23-2009, 07:29 PM

Very usefull thread, as I am thinking about mods and diy oil change, I had the same questions as Spearfish and Steve. So thanks Modshack and Wstar for the info

07-23-2009, 04:07 PM	#1 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	Jack Stand Question So I've decided to do my own oil changes and perhaps tackle some bolt-ons in the future. I bought two pairs of jack stands to get the car off the ground. Then while unpacking them, I see the label on the stands which says "should be used in pairs on ONE END OF THE VEHICLE ONLY. Should not be used on both ends together." WTF? I was hoping I could get the car off the ground and level to empty the oil pan more thoroughly. Do you guys put jack stands on all four corners or just a pair in the front? On a side note, it's a little creepy crawling under the jacked up car...lots of creaks and groans when it was going up. Boy would it suck if it came back down when I was under it... kidkotic2001 likes this. Last edited by spearfish25; 07-23-2009 at 04:10 PM.

07-23-2009, 04:12 PM	#2 (permalink)
Florida_GATOR Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Newport News, VA Posts: 705 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z Blk Rep Power: 17	That would suck, talk about a world of lol kidkotic2001 likes this. __________________ MK44 Creed- " Ive got a bullet here with your name on it, and im gonna keep firing till i find out which one it is " Most badass job ever.

07-23-2009, 04:14 PM	#3 (permalink)
Modshack A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Greenville NC Posts: 2,883 Drives: 370Z Sport Rep Power: 976	Just buy a set of Ramps....I used these for years before buying my lift. The car does not need to be level for most access and maintenance.. Stands are always handy to have and there may be a time when you need all four wheels off the ground. A good jack, 4 jack stands and a set of ramps will cover most of your needs.. onzedge and jpkirk like this. __________________ Steal my car! (SOLD)...Now Porsche Cayman S Oil Cooler DIY: Here! Last edited by Modshack; 07-23-2009 at 04:16 PM.

07-23-2009, 04:22 PM	#5 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	I've never seen that before. Is it because they're under-rated weight-wise or something, or don't have very stable bases? Most of the standard jack stands available at auto parts stores or Sears or whatever work fine for holding up all 4 corners of the car. You do have to be careful about placement though: they need to be placed somewhere that they can seat solidly, and that's design to carry the car's load and not damage anything. Somewhere on these forums, someone showed how to mod a hockey puck so that you can use the "edge" mounting points that were designed for the trunk emergency jack with regular jacks/stands. Personally, I set my front ones as far forward as you can go on the two main frame rails under the car just before they curve upwards (these are the obvious wide pair of solid metal beams running the length of the car, considerably inboard from the outer edges), and the rears on the rear suspension arms (like you can see in over here in this swaybar install thread: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...tion-rear.html ) __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-23-2009, 04:25 PM	#6 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	As far as getting the car up goes, even my current low-profile jack won't reach under the front spoiler far enough to get to the recommended jacking point under the center. I've lately been using a hybrid approach when I need all 4 wheels off the ground (like brake-related stuff): I drive onto my rhino ramps using boards to assist clearance, then jack the front of the car up off the ramps and switch the front to jack-stands, and then go around to the back and jack that up and put jack stands under it. (I really need to just get a lift ) jpkirk likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-23-2009, 04:31 PM	#7 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	My jack stands are the run-of-the-mill Torin 2 ton version. They have the 'teeth' on the adjustable pillar that the car rests on along with a metal pin as a secondary safety. My guess is that I just read the fine print, but perhaps everyone uses these on the 4 corners regardless. Since the jack won't make it under the front lift point, I guess I'll be doing the two front corners individually and then the back as a single lift at the end. Anyone have a pic they can label with where they place the jack for lifting each front corner? Wstar, is the beam you're talking about the same one as the 'lip' the manual says to place the jack on? Looking at the little circular disc on my floor jack, I can easily get the disc's edges to seat in the grooves on the edge where the emergency jack is supposed to seat. Last edited by spearfish25; 07-23-2009 at 04:33 PM.

07-23-2009, 04:40 PM	#11 (permalink)
m4a1mustang A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern VA Posts: 55,385 Drives: on two wheels Rep Power: 6962	Any of you guys know if you need to have all 4 off the ground for a CBE and/or HFC install or if you can get by with the front or rear up at one time. __________________ - Steve Zs & Coffee - Saturdays at 10AM in Fairfax, VA and Columbia, MD (Click the banner!) LIKE us on Facebook!

07-23-2009, 07:29 PM	#15 (permalink)
JB1 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 748 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z sold Rep Power: 17	Very usefull thread, as I am thinking about mods and diy oil change, I had the same questions as Spearfish and Steve. So thanks Modshack and Wstar for the info

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Oil change, Jack stands or ramps with diffuser?	spearfish25	Nissan 370Z General Discussions	31	08-10-2010 09:38 PM
Jack Stands	Minicobra1	DIY Section (Do-It-Yourself)	19	03-07-2010 05:54 PM
Question about oem ECU	Black kNight	Tuning	9	07-13-2009 12:08 PM
low profile jack for lowered z	jasonhoutx	Nissan 370Z General Discussions	4	06-27-2009 10:38 PM
Question	inland2000	Nissan 370Z Pricing / Ordering Discussions	8	06-07-2009 11:50 PM