Check out Costco, 3.25 ton, 3.5 clearance, $104.99. It's well built and heavy steel Originally Posted by GMZ Ive been looking at jacks and found this one @ Northern Tool
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02-05-2012, 04:33 PM | #46 (permalink) | |
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Check out Costco, 3.25 ton, 3.5 clearance, $104.99. It's well built and heavy steel
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02-05-2012, 10:20 PM | #47 (permalink) |
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My first two and a half ton Sears jack lasted 2.5 years under moderate use. Sears replaced it for free when the cylinder started leaking. I still abuse the crap out of it, it is still going after another two years. I wouldn't hesitate to get one again
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02-06-2012, 09:15 AM | #48 (permalink) |
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My primary issue with using jacks on this car is that many of the "low profile" jacks can't reach deep enough under the car to hit the jack points I want to use. They're only low-profile at the front of the jack, as if you'd only ever use it on the edge of the car.
My solution was to buy one of these adapters: Amazon.com: Floor Jack Saddle Adapter for Rocker Panel Pinch Weld: Automotive. The adapter is meant to allow a normal floor jack to use the edge jack points on the car (the ones that have a metal seam sticking down, that the stupid little screw jack in the trunk is design to operate around by having a slit in it). Then I searched around several hardware/auto stores in the area opening low-ish profile jack boxes until I found some random crappy model that actually had a removable jacking surface that left behind a circular hole the adapter could fit in. The combination works pretty well; I now have a floor jack I can use on the 4x factory jack points at the very side edges of the car to lift a corner and get a jack-stand underneath. |
02-06-2012, 09:35 AM | #49 (permalink) |
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The ultimate, if money isn't an issue, is to weld in a system using these: CP3985 - Light Weight Fast Aluminium Air Jacks - CP3985 Range. The Nismo RC uses the same thing in a 3-point setup: 2 in the front and one in the rear. The biggest one in the series has a one-foot stroke, and 3 of those big ones would add 9lbs to the car (plus air hoses and valves). It's not enough to crawl around under the car really, but it's enough to change tires or do minor work near the edges easily (e.g. reaching the front under-tray area or rear diff), and it would make it much easier to get a lowered 370 onto a lift for "real" work.
Seems like between the 3x jacks + misc other hardware, you're probably looking at $1500-$2000 to install such a setup though. This link has the Nismo RC sitting on its internal air jacks: NISSAN FAIRLADY ZNISMO RC |
02-06-2012, 09:51 PM | #50 (permalink) |
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I've had this jack for over a year now. Best money I've ever spent. My car is stupid low and I can still get to the jack points with it.
Summit Racing SUM-G1020 - Summit Racing® Low-Profile Hydraulic Floor Jacks - Overview - SummitRacing.com
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02-06-2012, 09:57 PM | #51 (permalink) |
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Nice floor jack. That's exactly what I've been looking for. Now I just need to find it in Canada. Summit wants $124 to ship...
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02-07-2012, 02:40 AM | #52 (permalink) | |
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Is it long enough to reach the front center jack point without lifting it from the side jack points first though? I've been trying to find a jack that will, but I'm having trouble...
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02-15-2012, 07:52 AM | #53 (permalink) |
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My solution to lifting my 370 is simple, I just purchased TWO 3.25 to floor jacks from Costco. Very nice, smooth operation and gets my Z up fairly fast. I have to go back and forth to lift it and lower it but it's worth the trouble. $105 from Costco in MD
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02-15-2012, 09:32 AM | #55 (permalink) |
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I jack up the car from the front first, starting on one side (driverside first for example) rest the car on a jack stand, then move to the opposite front side, jack it up, place a jack stand and lower be car. Then I move to the back and jack the car up at the diff, then place a jack stand on each side of the rear. Is there any issue doing it this way?
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02-15-2012, 09:59 AM | #56 (permalink) | |
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02-15-2012, 11:55 AM | #57 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
There is enough room where the jacking points are to use the jack and place the jackstand next to it.
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02-15-2012, 11:59 AM | #58 (permalink) | |
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good to know, thanks.
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02-15-2012, 12:03 PM | #59 (permalink) |
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Do you guys place the jackstands perpendicular to the pinch weld where the pinch weld rests on the inside/lower part of the stand or parallel right next to the pinch weld with the car resting on the higher part of the jack stand?
Hope it makes sense the way I described it. I have seen some guys bend their pinch weld pretty badly.
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02-15-2012, 12:06 PM | #60 (permalink) |
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hey zman- i place mine on the inner side of the rail cause the jackstands i use have narrow platforms with rubber covers.
the other way is to make either an adapter out of hockey puck or piece of wood. when im using my hydraulick jack i just use a piece of wood on top of the hydraulic jack's flat platform so that i push up on the jack point of the car. my rails are un damaged. |
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