Weird clanking noise

thispecialk

okay i fix the problem myself. i rented out a lift and did all the adjusting myself stupid exhaust shop rushed everything so it wasnt set right. only cost me 3 dollars to rent the lift and tools

thispecialk

o quick question to anyone is it possible to over tighten the bolt that with a torque gun. i think i might of gotten carried away with using it and paranoid that the bolts wasnt tight enough. should i try and losen these alittle or dont worry about it. im wondering if i crush the metal peice where the exhaust is adjustable in the front near the cat i kept torqing the **** out of it

wstar

Yes, you can in theory over-torque an exhaust flange, especially with an air wrench (which what I assume you mean by torque gun). The primary concern would be that you overtorqued one side before the other side was sufficiently torqued, which might warp or bend the flange. Stillen's instructions should have the correct torque values, I don't recall them offhand. In general this stuff should be done by hand (as should all tightening, and then use a torque wrench to get the correct value if necessary. You really only use an air wrench for loosening things in most car applications).

All of that said, unless you went really crazy with the air wrench, you're probably ok. If it's not leaking, just leave the bolts as they are. Loosening and retightening could make things worse if you've already overtorqued (like cause gasket failure). You did use anti-seize compound on the bolt threads right?

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thispecialk

no i didnt i dont even know wat that is(anti-seize compound). only thing i use the air wrench on is the 2 bolts in the very front holding the exhaust up. the bolts that u can adjust. im worried now i might of went alittle crazy on the air wrench. heres instruction on which bolt
10. Tighten the bolts and clamps from the
front to the back making sure the
system is straight and clear of the sway bar
and cross member. The front bolt holes at the
catalytic converters allow for some adjustment
for this. The flanges on the mufflers should be
tightened last AFTER checking alignment of
the exhaust tips to the rear valance.

thispecialk

i wonder if im gonna be able to take those nutz off or if it warp the metal. its been 4 days now. i wont be able to barrow a lift till the week end cause thats only time there open

wstar

Anti-seize compound is available at any auto parts store. If you don't use it, eventually (many miles later) the exhaust bolts will pretty much weld/rust themselves into place and will be very difficult or impossible to remove without cutting them.

Also, the gaskets burn in to some degree, getting thinner and sticking to the flange metal as they get heated by the exhaust. In my experience, the type of gaskets the aftermarket companies are using (Berk, Stillen) can't really be re-used once they've burned in. By that I mean, if you go and loosen those flanges again, the gasket may not reseal when you tighten it back down, so you need to have a new set of gaskets on hand if you do that.

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Journal thread / Car setup details

thispecialk

Well like said only thing I'm worried about is the front bolts holding the exhaust up cause of the air wrench.

thispecialk

how will i know if my sway bar is hitting my exhaust? i look under neat and theres about half an inch space in between them. will they hit each other if i hit a bump or pot hole? i move the exhaust up more so the exhaust dont hit the crossmember but now im worried about the sway bar

thispecialk

Has anyone wrap the crossmember with heat shield to stop the clanking