While I'll probably get flamed for suggesting this, but if you considered the miata, what about the FR-S or BRZ?
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01-03-2013, 07:54 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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While I'll probably get flamed for suggesting this, but if you considered the miata, what about the FR-S or BRZ?
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01-03-2013, 08:06 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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You might want to slow down & read the OP's post before bashing. He knows how to drive a stick, never owned one. He souds like he's going abouit it the right way & doing research instead of just dropping $60k+ & crash landing in a sports car.
To OP, there are drivers courses you can take with cars available. It could make for a nice vacation Here is just an example of such a school in FL Sports Car Driving Experience Racing School Cars | SportsCarDrivingExperience.com
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01-03-2013, 09:06 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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Felix - I've heard people recommend that school, and am considering that one - in addition to Ron Fellows/Spring Mountain (NV) and Bondurant - for later on if I still want to get a Z06, since those schools use Corvettes to teach. Those schools also tend to cost over a $1000 per day, so I wanted to "get up speed" with shifting comfortably, heel toe, finding "the line" or correcting early apex, etc etc before I attend those schools.
As for BRZ... I've seriously considered that, only thing is that they're all either new or being sold at near-new prices. I don't want to be the one to take the up-front depreciation hit when I sell it in a year. I suppose I should seriously consider going the beater route... I guess I just had it in my head that if I bought used a 2007 350Z or 2010 370Z and drove it for a year (not really tracking per se, just one or two HPDEs where the guy sits next to you, and autocross a couple times) , that I could still sell it for maybe 3K less than I bought it for (e.g. pay $25K for a 2010 370Z now ---> sell for $22K at the end of this year), on top of cost of tires and other maintenance costs. Last edited by Adam_W; 01-03-2013 at 09:32 PM. |
01-03-2013, 09:28 PM | #19 (permalink) |
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The 370z is not HPDE ready. You will need to spend a decent amount on brakes, tires, fluids, oil cooler, etc. Auto-x is no problem. I've done multiple events in my stock Z. It's the HPDE where you are going to have to pay to play.
My thoughts are buy an old car, not a beater per say. You can buy a nice condition 240z/280z/280zx/300zx (80's) for 5k or less. Spend another 1-2k in prep work/parts and have a nice good to go car. Other options are older supras and corvettes. You can get a decent condition C5 Vette for less than a used 370z and for the same price as a used 370z you could get a C5 Z06. Vettes are a lot better preped track wise than the Z is but being that they are used brakes and tires will still be an issue BUT they won't require an oil cooler like the Z does. Personally I'd probably buy a C5 Z06. Vettes are cheap to maintain and fix (relatively) compared to other cars in it's class That being said, if it were me I'd probably just buy the new car I want and learn driving it. It will have a higher learning curve but it will also be cheaper in the long run rather than buying one car now and another later. Remember, the money you spend on tires/brakes/fluids/oil coolers/etc won't be recouped when you sell. |
01-03-2013, 09:31 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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01-03-2013, 09:52 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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If your primary purpose is to sharpen your skills in driving inside the track or do autocross. Might as well get a cheap beat up Miata or an RX8 do mods to be track ready, then sell after a year. Your loss will not be as much since you started cheap.
Once you have the skill and still have the money then go for your best dream sports car and keep it. A 911 GT3 would be a nice sports car to keep. IMHO |
01-03-2013, 09:57 PM | #22 (permalink) |
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if you just want to learn...get a NA Miata. (90-99) they are relatively cheap, have very little issues/maintenance and parts for them are as cheap as for a civic. For around 5-6k (3.5-4k for car + brakes, seat/harness, suspension, wheels/tires, etc) you will have a track car. Then when you have learned what you need either sell it, or just keep it as track only.
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01-03-2013, 10:23 PM | #23 (permalink) | |
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01-03-2013, 10:38 PM | #24 (permalink) | |
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01-03-2013, 11:56 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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DEpointfive0 - thanks for the generous offer. Replied to PM.
I appreciate the voices of wisdom here and will take the collective advice and not buy the 370Z for the time being. I'll do some more research on other cars, and look harder for older Miatas. I appreciate everyone's advice and will let you know if I have any other questions. 370Zs are beautiful cars and I'm kinda sad I won't be getting one (was going to get the black 2010 370z at Hardin Hyundai in Anaheim). For those who've been less than helpful, I suggest you ponder how you respond to newbies on the forum. As with all things in life, everyone has to start somewhere, and the guy you offer help to today might be the same person who is able to teach you something in a couple of years. Such is the meaning of Community. Last edited by Adam_W; 01-04-2013 at 12:25 AM. |
01-04-2013, 12:04 AM | #29 (permalink) |
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3-4k sounds about right for a track beater... A buddy of mine bought his for 2k and has been beating the hell out of it ever since. Then he bought a used mustang for about 12k and he's happy.
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01-04-2013, 07:28 AM | #30 (permalink) |
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The thought that appears to me would be to split the 60k you want to spend into two different cars... Hear me out - you've no experience in a manual or driving a car on a track, there is no way on this earth I would be taking my 60K daily driver and modifying it to suit that purpose and inevitably damaging it at some point.
My money would buy a open wheeler for the track (built for that very purpose!) and either something like the Z or a different daily driver option. That way you have something with brilliant power to weight setup to suit track only and a comfortable undamaged/abused daily. |
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