Nissan 370Z Forum - Anyone having issues with a rattle in the rear hatch?

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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)

- Nissan 370Z General Discussions (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/)

- - Anyone having issues with a rattle in the rear hatch? (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/63667-anyone-having-issues-rattle-rear-hatch.html)

SouthArk370Z

05-03-2014 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cinellipro (Post 2805838)

The Dynamat helped but did not cure the problem. Although improved, there's still a plastic rattle that occurs over bumps.

I'd try putting some foam between the plastic and metal. Something with some give that you can press in there and keep some "tension" on the parts. If you have one rattle, you may have another. Maybe you fixed one of the rattles and now you hear another.

cinellipro

05-04-2014 06:35 PM

Good point! There are probably layers of rattles.

scope22

05-05-2014 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012-370Z (Post 2030932)

I have a rattle coming from the window frame in the rear hatch. It's driving me crazy! I've had it to the dealer twice and it's still not fixed. Most recently I took it to the dealer they said it was fixed which it was not. They said they "took it for a spin to test it", when I checked the odometer I noticed they drove it 22 miles for their "test" and it's still not fixed. I'm thinking all they did was joy ride my car and never fixed anything. Ticked! Anyone else have this issue and a solution for fixing it?

I fixed same problem on my 09, first you need get an idea where its coming from, in my case when its was buzzing i lightly pressed on the headliner in the back center (there is a small hump) and the buzzing stopped, i have a nav so there are cables going to antenna, so i dropped down the headliner a bit used some dynamat to 'glue' down those cables, that got rid of 90% of buzzing there is still some faint buzzing but again pressing on head liner makes it go away so i just need to 'rinse and repeat'.

scope22

05-05-2014 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 2805868)

i would not do foam, it will move and it will rattle again, i bought some felt tape from amazon, its only 1mm thick works really great, you can use it to tape down loose cables and put a bit of it between places where plastic meets with metal.

DOOMMONKEY777

05-05-2014 07:26 PM

Yeah i have that same rattle, also removed trunk hatch weight and it started happening, ill check the wiring and stuff see what i fond.

7speed

05-07-2014 10:39 AM

/\

I been thinking that is part of purpose of hatch weight, because once I took mine out rattle was more pronounced.

cinellipro

05-10-2014 11:51 AM

1 Attachment(s)

I've narrowed the rattle to the door hatch itself near the latch/lock. I removed the door hatch plastic panel and the rattle seems to be emanating from this area. Test drove without the panel and the noise is coming from the latch/lock area underneath the spoiler within the door hatch frame.
Anyone deal with this?
Thanks.

cinellipro

05-27-2014 05:59 PM

Fixed!

3 Attachment(s)

Finally fixed the rattle in my car. After some the trial and error, I purchased some weatherstripping from Pepboys. $30. Installed it in three strategic areas. It not only worked but it became quieter. Drove it on the freeway with no noises or whistles. I'll pick up the hatch shocks and replace the OEM hatch weatherstripping next as a final blow to all rattles.

H2O_Doc

05-27-2014 07:01 PM

I had rattles from my twin 12" subs. What worked PERFECTLY was using thin felt tape where metal and plastic or plastic and plastic met. Super easy, super quick, and entirely effective.

If it is a striker plate adjustment, felt tape probably ain't the answer. For other rattles, it works.

Alrashwa

06-27-2014 02:22 AM

cinellipro, I bought what I think is the same weather stripping from pep boys. I'll install it on the same locations you did and report my results later.

Davey

06-27-2014 05:53 AM

I was hearing a rattle over every bump in my NISMO which was clearly the latch, it sounded like it wasn't shut all the way. You could move the hatch a good 1/8" with little force, even when it was shut.

Last night I pulled the weatherstrip and the center panel off the lower hatch and moved the striker down and it shuts tight now, hopefully that takes care of the issue.

Limeybastard

06-27-2014 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davey (Post 2876363)

I noticed that too on my base Z. If you press down on the hatch when closed there is slight movement up down. I guess by moving the striker down the gap to bumper is now smaller?

Zbrah

08-05-2014 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davey (Post 2876363)

I did the same, moved that black latch unit down a few mm, it does seem to lock tighter but the trunk rattles are still there.

Got_Z

08-06-2014 12:40 AM

No. But I have an issue with dealers "testing" my car. They always "test" it for 20-30 miles minimum. Pesky bastards.

Davey

08-06-2014 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zbrah (Post 2920896)

I did the same, moved that black latch unit down a few mm, it does seem to lock tighter but the trunk rattles are still there.

Move it down more. Move it down until you have to hit the button twice to get the hatch to pop, if you can, and then back it off half a mm.

I put mine as tight as it will go, it's about as perfect as it gets, no double-tap on the trunk button and not too much effort to shut it.

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