11-20-2012, 08:39 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Just the TT kit is 15K?
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11-20-2012, 08:42 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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The base kit isn't, but that's what you'll spend to do it right. 3" downpipes, EWGs, ceramic coat everything, powdercoat piping, etc. I included the cost of my exhaust in there, but he'll need some form of 3" exhaust. They cost around the same. Sorry if I came off as combative, I just unfortunately know how much this costs. I was dumb enough to keep a spreadsheet. OP, if you build a 600 whp Z, throw away the damn receipts. You won't want to know the final total.
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11-20-2012, 08:46 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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Not combative at all. This info is very helpful for all of us and you for sure know a lot more then I do since you have done it LOL. The local shop in my area will do a STG 1 GTM installed with an OS Giken clutch/flywheel, 25 row oil cooler, Tune for around $15k. Exhaust will be more of course. I know that's STG 1 and I'm not getting into the full build of the motor but that's good for 450-500 wheel.
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11-20-2012, 08:53 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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And that's where he should stop. Past that point the $/hp curve gets wacky.
Your local shop isn't too bad on the cost, but you'll still need another $5k of other stuff. 3" downpipes, exhaust, radiator, etc. You only want to do this once. The real bastard about this is, the numbers look daunting and hard to swallow, but it's soooo worth it. FYI, If you're thinking about TTing a Z, keep some funds in reserve in case something goes bang. It would suck for someone to be making payments on a car that doesn't run.
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11-20-2012, 09:00 PM | #36 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
ya I am not sure where he's getting his numbers from from what I can see you could have bought 2 tuner kits for that price! sorry wouldn't safe the preferences for vehicle and what I had searched so you'll have to do it yourself GTMPOWER.COM even in this article(the first post) it's only $7500 for the TT kit GTM:2010 A Year in Review
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11-20-2012, 09:00 PM | #37 (permalink) |
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7k to start. Once you add the other things you're going to need to do it right and reliable, double it.
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11-20-2012, 09:03 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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From the GTM invoice on my desk, unfortunately. And the one from Fast Intentions, and the one from CSF, etc.
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11-20-2012, 09:05 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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weird you should look into that cause you got over charged I know a guy up here in Canada that went GTM TT and he spent <$10K
are you including instal? some of use are capable of installing it ourselves which is a huge savings and great sense of accomplishment!
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11-20-2012, 09:09 PM | #40 (permalink) | |
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OP, I'm gonna do my best to cut through a lot of the crap that is being slung around.
Quote:
Of course, this is assuming the STI is stock-ish and the Z is lightly modified (oil cooler, etc). A tune does wonders for opening up the top end of the STI, and brings things a good bit closer on the higher speed courses. I'd see if you can find a used STI to dog and get a feel for whether you like it. The AWD turbo sled feel isn't for everyone, and you may very well decide you want to stay in a RWD coupe. For DD duty, the posters that mentioned the door quality of the STI hit the nail on the head...worst doors in the industry, no question. Other than that, neither car is bad and it comes down to preference. Test drive both and form your own opinion. I personally found the Z to be better tuned for cruising, and the hatch space was actually pretty usable...but if you need a backseat, you need a backseat. Now, for the mod-ability discussion that seems to have taken center stage. You may notice that the folks posting in this thread in favor of a 500+whp daily driver have something in common, notably that they have no experience with one. There's a whole lot of dedication that comes with owning a heavily modified car, and anyone that has put more than a couple thousand real miles on one can tell you all about it. It's not necessarily bad, but no heavily modified car is "reliable" in the traditional sense. Things break, and regular maintenance takes on a different tone. When the work is done right, it doesn't have to be a burden, but at the same time, you better have some familiarity with how your car works and how to fix things like boost leaks. If the work is done poorly, you wind up with stories like the blown motor on the STI. While talking power, it's also worth thinking about your plans for it...street, strip, track? The FI'd Z's have proven to be trap speed monsters which means it is a fun machine to spool up in, but there's less positive data for track and strip. Worth keeping in mind and doing research on. The only tracked Z's I've seen have been SC'd and even then running into heat issues when laying competitive times.... If you can post up more of your goals from the car, we can probably steer you better. There's a number of reasons why each car might be better for you, although I'd generally steer you away from trading a relatively new Z in for an STI without some sort of compelling reason. do you have a link to this? |
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11-20-2012, 09:11 PM | #41 (permalink) | |
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I'm not saying you have to spend 15k. You can cut corners and do it for less than 10k. I chose to do everything at once, and get everything I need to make it as reliable as possible.
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11-20-2012, 09:16 PM | #42 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
The cost of putting together a FI setup for a factory NA car is something that generally won't make sense to someone until they've done it. A large number of relatively low cost mods add up pretty quickly. |
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11-20-2012, 09:17 PM | #43 (permalink) |
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I am not saying that you only need the TT kit just saying it can be cheaper then what you have spent
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11-20-2012, 09:20 PM | #44 (permalink) |
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That's what I keep trying to tell everyone, but it seems to be falling on deaf ears. There's a lot of stuff to buy. **** gets expensive in a hurry.
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11-20-2012, 09:24 PM | #45 (permalink) |
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that it is not a cheap thing to do, just different total cost for parts when I do my parts wish list.
Either way congrats on your TTZ34 Chuck33079
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