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2009 issues?

Hi, I'm considering getting a 370z for my next company car. It will be leased for three years, but the new ones are probably a bit too expensive to lease

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Old 10-28-2012, 06:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2009 issues?

Hi,

I'm considering getting a 370z for my next company car. It will be leased for three years, but the new ones are probably a bit too expensive to lease (also I dont really like the 2013 changes). Do you guys know if there are any issues specific to the 2009 models? Im wanting to know if I will regret getting a 2009 one because maybe they had some problems that they have fixed in later years. I have read the FAQ's etc. and havent been able to find any info regarding specifically the 2009 models - I know they can have oil temp issues but i understand this hasn't been fixed in any later models.

Any information would be appreciated.

thanks,

Jason
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Actually 2012's have an additional oil cooler, and there is a steering column lock issue with 2009 and 2010 I believe.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overklok View Post
Actually 2012's have an additional oil cooler, and there is a steering column lock issue with 2009 and 2010 I believe.
Thanks for the reply! I will look into the steering column lock issue.. funny, I read on another forum that Nissan only offered an oil cooler as an additional option as they said it wasnt necessary for normal driving, only when tracking the car.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok, the 2009's were more prone to oil consumption issues, they had the steering lock failure, a LOT were replaced, and there is a way of finding if it's the newer one (gotta look for it on the forum), and the rear trunk springs to pop the trunk open suck a lot of the time... There is a ghetto fix with pennies that works (coins or your 10 cent pieces) or you can go to the dealer for a free replacement if the car is under warranty...


Regarding the oil overheating issue, if you're DD-ing it, you should be ok. When I was in Texas and in 100+ degree weather I didn't NEED one, my oil temps never surpassed 190 even after spirited driving..
(I firmly believe that the OIL you use plays a HUGE role in oil temps [I only run NISSAN's ester oil, and I run cooler than almost anyone I know] But the oil debate should be left to the other 678738049 other threads)
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
Ok, the 2009's were more prone to oil consumption issues, they had the steering lock failure, a LOT were replaced, and there is a way of finding if it's the newer one (gotta look for it on the forum), and the rear trunk springs to pop the trunk open suck a lot of the time... There is a ghetto fix with pennies that works (coins or your 10 cent pieces) or you can go to the dealer for a free replacement if the car is under warranty...


Regarding the oil overheating issue, if you're DD-ing it, you should be ok. When I was in Texas and in 100+ degree weather I didn't NEED one, my oil temps never surpassed 190 even after spirited driving..
(I firmly believe that the OIL you use plays a HUGE role in oil temps [I only run NISSAN's ester oil, and I run cooler than almost anyone I know] But the oil debate should be left to the other 678738049 other threads)
Thanks heaps, that is all good to know. Looks like any issues (other than perhaps the steering lock one) are relatively minor, and definately able to be fixed without too much hassle? The lease company will pay for any repairs etc. so for things like the hatch not opening it shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herojason View Post
Thanks heaps, that is all good to know. Looks like any issues (other than perhaps the steering lock one) are relatively minor, and definately able to be fixed without too much hassle? The lease company will pay for any repairs etc. so for things like the hatch not opening it shouldn't be a problem.
Oh, and for the steering lock, if it has the OLD revision (prone to breaking) you can remove a fuse (has to be done before the steering lock fails though) And that info can be looked up on the forum as well... If you need help with either, sorry I'm lazy, just shoot me a PM if you can't find them, just trying to burn some time before going back to finish my essays...
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I bought my '09 new, nearly 3 years ago and have had no problems. However, I only drive it in nice weather and only have 10,200 miles on her. None of the problems mentioned have effected my car. I had an ambient temperature sensor replaced under warranty. After changing out the tires to get rid of road noise, my car has been a pleasure.
Make sure the one you buy or lease hasn't been abused, CarFax, etc.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGuy View Post
I bought my '09 new, nearly 3 years ago and have had no problems. However, I only drive it in nice weather and only have 10,200 miles on her. None of the problems mentioned have effected my car. I had an ambient temperature sensor replaced under warranty. After changing out the tires to get rid of road noise, my car has been a pleasure.
Make sure the one you buy or lease hasn't been abused, CarFax, etc.
Thanks OldGuy, sounds like there's no reason not to go for it =D.

i will be driving a lot more than you, but all maintenance issues are taken care of by the lease company anyway.

Hopefully i can post some pics here in December!
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:21 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You can install aftermarket oil-coolers on earlier models (i.e. 2009); However, a 2012 model will have a small, factory installed oil-cooler already.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
Ok, the 2009's were more prone to oil consumption issues, they had the steering lock failure, a LOT were replaced, and there is a way of finding if it's the newer one (gotta look for it on the forum), and the rear trunk springs to pop the trunk open suck a lot of the time... There is a ghetto fix with pennies that works (coins or your 10 cent pieces) or you can go to the dealer for a free replacement if the car is under warranty...


Regarding the oil overheating issue, if you're DD-ing it, you should be ok. When I was in Texas and in 100+ degree weather I didn't NEED one, my oil temps never surpassed 190 even after spirited driving..
(I firmly believe that the OIL you use plays a HUGE role in oil temps [I only run NISSAN's ester oil, and I run cooler than almost anyone I know] But the oil debate should be left to the other 678738049 other threads)
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
Ok, the 2009's were more prone to oil consumption issues, they had the steering lock failure, a LOT were replaced, and there is a way of finding if it's the newer one (gotta look for it on the forum), and the rear trunk springs to pop the trunk open suck a lot of the time... There is a ghetto fix with pennies that works (coins or your 10 cent pieces) or you can go to the dealer for a free replacement if the car is under warranty...


Regarding the oil overheating issue, if you're DD-ing it, you should be ok. When I was in Texas and in 100+ degree weather I didn't NEED one, my oil temps never surpassed 190 even after spirited driving..
(I firmly believe that the OIL you use plays a HUGE role in oil temps [I only run NISSAN's ester oil, and I run cooler than almost anyone I know] But the oil debate should be left to the other 678738049 other threads)
I find that 190 deg hard to believe, I have an oil cooler and only now do I stay at 190 doing hard driving and 180 otherwise... independent of ambient temps.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I have an 09 and haven't had either of those issues. Check the VIN, I believe some where within the oil consumption range... my car is just as reliable, if not more than some of the newer ones. My car did have the crappy rear hatch shocks which were replaced last year by Nissan.

My buddy with a 2010 just had to have his CSC fixed... my feels like it did the day I bought it.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The only issue I've had (if you call it an issue) was the rear hatch springs. A few pennies cleared it right up. Other than this my Z has been flawless.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binary0x01 View Post
I find that 190 deg hard to believe, I have an oil cooler and only now do I stay at 190 doing hard driving and 180 otherwise... independent of ambient temps.
I'll be uninstalling my oil cooler soon, I'll post up pics, I BS you not though, I saw over 200 twice, one after... Drag racing on a closed course on the freeway to about 110, then coming to an immediate stop, and waiting, and the other time was when the dealershit didn't use Ester oil although I told them 10 times, but after they swapped it I went back to the 180-190 range.

EDIT: Again, I believe in their oil, or reasons why they recommend it, and the oil in my car, ONLY when using their oil, cools down a lot faster than say someone who uses Mobil 1... Even if its a test where we let our cars warm up, turn them off and wait to see how much time is needed to drop by a certain temp


To each his own. The oil cooler to me is a must because it will almost certainly prolong engine life. I don't think I will ever NOT install one on any car I will ever own from hereon out.

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Old 10-30-2012, 11:12 AM   #15 (permalink)
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For the first 25K-30k miles, I had to add a quart between oil changes. I'm now at 44k, and don't have to anymore.

Issues I've had:

Rack and pinion seeping PS fluid (one of the bellows on the end was wet); whole assembly including tie rod ends was replaced under warranty.
Upper radiator hose seeping at radiator; wasn't wet; just some weird stuff growing at the site. Hose replaced under warrenty.
Rear hatch not opening on first try; new springs installed per TSB
Volume control and A/C temp control had erratic operation; sometimes turning down the volume would have the opposite effect; panel replaced under warranty.

All of these issues were taken care of before the car reached 36k miles, in one visit to the dealership. The rack and pinion issue started early on; the others happened a year or two into ownership. I just kept a running list of issues and made a point of "taking it in", before the warranty expired. I have had no issues since then.
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