Crush Washer?

KoolKarmaJoe · 06-23-2015, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VCuomo

So, as semtex asked, why not just use the washer that comes with the plug?

In fact, even if you don't use the magnetic plug, why not just switch to a flat nylon washer (like many cars have) that can be re-used at each oil change? Is there anything that sacred about the copper crush washer?

I used the nylon washer and have had NO issues. I don't see what the big deal is that washer must be copper. It's ironic that Nissan would insist on a copper washer but yet still uses failure prone Clutch Slave Cylinders on their Manual transmissions.

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2011 Nismo#91 · 06-23-2015, 08:19 AM

I don't use any washer and have no issues. Awhile back I just installed a valve and was done with it. Also a side note magnets don't seem to do much, from the start I did UOA for all my oil changes and over the course of 7 changes iron levels did not drop off any more quickly then the norm.

kenchan · 06-23-2015, 11:33 AM

i rather re-use the old washer vs not using any. no need to add unnecessary wear from friction.

Spooler · 06-23-2015, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

i rather re-use the old washer vs not using any. no need to add unnecessary wear from friction.

You can reuse them for years. The issue comes when the copper washer get's scared from dirt or the friction over the years. You just need to inspect it and be very clean at every oil change with the plug and pan surface. The copper washer acutally goes face up on the drain plug. Twist it on the wrong way and it will not bottom out on the plug.

2011 Nismo#91 · 06-23-2015, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

i rather re-use the old washer vs not using any. no need to add unnecessary wear from friction.

If you remove enough metal to make a difference in 100 oil changes (300,000 miles) to weaken the structure......

kenchan · 06-23-2015, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

You can reuse them for years. The issue comes when the copper washer get's scared from dirt or the friction over the years. You just need to inspect it and be very clean at every oil change with the plug and pan surface. The copper washer acutally goes face up on the drain plug. Twist it on the wrong way and it will not bottom out on the plug.

yah, i just replace it each time. why not, i have a bunch of them already.

kenchan · 06-23-2015, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91

If you remove enough metal to make a difference in 100 oil changes (300,000 miles) to weaken the structure......

i suppose you can go commando if u want. i prefer to do it the normal way...especially knowing that surface should not be scratched by the plug.
hell go ahead and use ur pliers to remove your lug nuts. im sure it can be done.

Spooler · 06-23-2015, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

i suppose you can go commando if u want. i prefer to do it the normal way...especially knowing that surface should not be scratched by the plug.
hell go ahead and use ur pliers to remove your lug nuts. im sure it can be done.

It's visegrips on the oil drain plug. God I have seen a many.

nis350 · 06-23-2015, 10:31 PM

yeah.. same here. they are very cheap.

I think the real purpose is that the washer would crush and provide proper seal when torque to factory spec. You may have to tighten down more with an already crushed washer and I have heard people stripping the oil pan from too much torque on the drain bolt.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

yah, i just replace it each time. why not, i have a bunch of them already.

2011 Nismo#91 · 06-24-2015, 01:11 PM

vtec to vvel · 06-24-2015, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91

what am i looking at here?

Spooler · 06-24-2015, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel

what am i looking at here?

Looks like a Fumoto oil drain valve.

semtex · 06-24-2015, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Looks like a Fumoto oil drain valve.

aka a Qwik Valve. Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™

GZ3 · 06-24-2015, 05:38 PM

wow!! fumoto vavle! how come i never knew!

ChesapeakeVA · 03-23-2017, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WShade

Thats right. Larger radius side to the block and smaller to the bolt. You should be able to look at it from the top and still see the flange of the smaller radius side as the OEM one is in your picture.

+1 rep when im not daydrinking and using tapatalk. Or however that goes. Just got an instant answer while performing first oil change on new Z.

If ur reading dis pray i dont regret this greddy magnetic drain plug

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06-23-2015, 08:19 AM	#17 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,400 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40569	I don't use any washer and have no issues. Awhile back I just installed a valve and was done with it. Also a side note magnets don't seem to do much, from the start I did UOA for all my oil changes and over the course of 7 changes iron levels did not drop off any more quickly then the norm. KoolKarmaJoe likes this.

06-24-2015, 05:38 PM	#29 (permalink)
GZ3 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: SATX Posts: 3,296 Drives: Z Rep Power: 21	wow!! fumoto vavle! how come i never knew! __________________ 09 GT-R 12' 370Z 7AT HANDED DOWN 12'+13' 5.0 SOLD

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06-23-2015, 11:33 AM	#18 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	i rather re-use the old washer vs not using any. no need to add unnecessary wear from friction.

06-24-2015, 01:11 PM	#25 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,400 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40569