Is there a break in period for the Z?

homeryansta · 08-18-2012, 12:05 PM

It's not the engine you need to break in. It is the clutch and brakes.

danelonson · 08-18-2012, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by falconfixer

Unless you took delivery right off the truck chances are someone before you has redlined your car.

This is so true!

Obsidian · 08-18-2012, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by homeryansta

It's not the engine you need to break in. It is the clutch and brakes.

+1. The suspension settles too.

FairladyZ · 08-18-2012, 04:30 PM

its not jsut test drivers. Workers are known to floor these ***** cause they dont give a ****.

And also they put in regular gas all the times, so its always good to drive off the first tank they give you.

NewtoZ's5 · 08-18-2012, 05:35 PM

I have never once followed any kind of break-in period for any of my new vehicles and have never had any sort of issue. IMHO I think they are not neccessary.

UNKNOWN_370 · 08-18-2012, 07:37 PM

The best break-in is keeping it at 7500rpm steady for as long as you possibly can at gyrating speeds. over 125mph a serious+

Go 4 the gusto bud.

Chan Chee Hoe · 08-18-2012, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danelonson

This is so true!

Not only that,maybe inside the factory,the workers already full blast the engine for testing.

LakeShow · 08-19-2012, 03:35 AM

Shove some potatoes in the exhaust pipes and rev the car. Don't know what it will do but should be interesting.

Nailzs · 08-19-2012, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LakeShow

Shove some potatoes in the exhaust pipes and rev the car. Don't know what it will do but should be interesting.

Expensive potato gun

lacarnut · 08-20-2012, 05:14 AM

I half way followed the break in period for my automatic 2003 and 2008 Z. Never had a problem. The Infiniti G37 has the same engine. I got down hard shifting it and running it up to almost red line. I smelled something buring so I have not shifted it since. This was done when it only had a few miles on it. So, I am not going to run my new Z up to redline till after the break in period.

bvl · 08-20-2012, 06:18 AM

You will spend hours reading opinions on this. Most new engines are bench tested from the factory so the initial 'break' in of rings is mostly done given the tighter tolerances of modern manufacturing.

The Nissan recommendation is conservative. Personally I feel the best part of it (and consistent with other manufacturers) is to avoid steady state operations, i.e. cruising at 3K for an hour.

Vary the load on the engine, which implies varying the RPM load. You don't have to bury the throttle to get it above 4K, but IMHO its good to stretch the legs of the RPM range once warmed up. Sure you can get plenty of driving done below 4K but pushing to 4500, 5000, 5500 as you progress in the progress through the break in period is a good thing.

I have only broken in two new cars myself. First was a high performance honda which I did take on the Highway a bit when young. Next was a 2002 WRX that I very much broke in by varying load for 500 miles or so. Honda was sold at 140K, the WRX has 125K and still going. Both barely used any oil between 7500 synthetic changes.

Rest of my cars have been pre-loved so I have absolutely no clue how they were used. 2010 Z and the 06 Cayman.

We drive both of them with gusto.

- b

The Z monster · 08-20-2012, 10:09 AM

Sounds good. Thanks for all the input

08-18-2012, 12:05 PM	#16 (permalink)
homeryansta Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Brooklyn Park, MN Posts: 424 Drives: 04 se-r spec v, 370z Rep Power: 14	It's not the engine you need to break in. It is the clutch and brakes. __________________

08-18-2012, 05:35 PM	#20 (permalink)
NewtoZ's5 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Sachse, Texas Age: 50 Posts: 128 Drives: 12 GM T/S/Navi Rep Power: 13	I have never once followed any kind of break-in period for any of my new vehicles and have never had any sort of issue. IMHO I think they are not neccessary. __________________ 2012 GM 370Z Touring/Sport- Swift Spec-R, 20mm spacers, K&N Typoons, Z1 HFC's, Invidia Gemini, Kinetix camber, SPC toe, UpRev 310WHP/256TQ 2004 RYP S2000- Enkei RPF1's(blK)w/Dunlop Star Specs, Swift Spec-R, I/H/HFC

08-19-2012, 03:35 AM	#23 (permalink)
LakeShow A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: L.I., NY Posts: 5,307 Drives: Everything Rep Power: 25	Shove some potatoes in the exhaust pipes and rev the car. Don't know what it will do but should be interesting. __________________ \|2013 Audi S4\|Ibis White/Black\|S-Tronic P+\| \|2013 370z\|PearlWhite/Persimmon\|Touring/Sport/Nav\|F.I. CBE 18" CF\| \|Sold\|2011 370z\|Gun Metallic\|Touring/Sport/Nav\|

08-20-2012, 10:09 AM	#27 (permalink)
The Z monster Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Port saint lucie, FL Posts: 326 Drives: 2012 370Z Grey A/T Rep Power: 14	Sounds good. Thanks for all the input __________________ window tint - LIGHTNING HAMMER INSTA-CHARGER (600whp proven)

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Test Drive and Break In Period	heebus	Nismo 370Z	19	02-18-2012 11:49 PM
No break-in period for Nissan in general??	ssmoked	Nissan 370Z General Discussions	17	06-29-2011 11:30 AM
Any changes after break in period?	findingnismo	Nissan 370Z General Discussions	11	05-21-2011 03:17 AM
Best Oil to use for break in period - 5000 miles?	DrewDong	Nissan 370Z General Discussions	7	07-07-2010 02:11 PM
Break In Period?	The Geek	Engine & Drivetrain	48	03-02-2010 08:40 AM

08-18-2012, 04:30 PM	#19 (permalink)
FairladyZ Track Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 850 Drives: 2012 370Z TRNG SPRT Rep Power: 17	its not jsut test drivers. Workers are known to floor these *** cause they dont give a **. And also they put in regular gas all the times, so its always good to drive off the first tank they give you.

08-18-2012, 07:37 PM	#21 (permalink)
UNKNOWN_370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: ny'r livn in tx Posts: 8,687 Drives: well over 130m.p.h. Rep Power: 14858	The best break-in is keeping it at 7500rpm steady for as long as you possibly can at gyrating speeds. over 125mph a serious+ Go 4 the gusto bud.

08-20-2012, 05:14 AM	#25 (permalink)
lacarnut Base Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Posts: 30 Drives: 2011 Infiniti G37- Rep Power: 13	I half way followed the break in period for my automatic 2003 and 2008 Z. Never had a problem. The Infiniti G37 has the same engine. I got down hard shifting it and running it up to almost red line. I smelled something buring so I have not shifted it since. This was done when it only had a few miles on it. So, I am not going to run my new Z up to redline till after the break in period.

08-20-2012, 06:18 AM	#26 (permalink)
bvl Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: PA Posts: 362 Drives: MB Roadster (sold) Rep Power: 14	You will spend hours reading opinions on this. Most new engines are bench tested from the factory so the initial 'break' in of rings is mostly done given the tighter tolerances of modern manufacturing. The Nissan recommendation is conservative. Personally I feel the best part of it (and consistent with other manufacturers) is to avoid steady state operations, i.e. cruising at 3K for an hour. Vary the load on the engine, which implies varying the RPM load. You don't have to bury the throttle to get it above 4K, but IMHO its good to stretch the legs of the RPM range once warmed up. Sure you can get plenty of driving done below 4K but pushing to 4500, 5000, 5500 as you progress in the progress through the break in period is a good thing. I have only broken in two new cars myself. First was a high performance honda which I did take on the Highway a bit when young. Next was a 2002 WRX that I very much broke in by varying load for 500 miles or so. Honda was sold at 140K, the WRX has 125K and still going. Both barely used any oil between 7500 synthetic changes. Rest of my cars have been pre-loved so I have absolutely no clue how they were used. 2010 Z and the 06 Cayman. We drive both of them with gusto. - b