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When was your last oil change?

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Old 07-21-2012, 10:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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When was your last oil change?
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Old 07-21-2012, 11:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Did water get into your engine bay recently?
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Old 07-22-2012, 02:56 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Sorry to hear, hope you get it up and running soon!
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:59 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by christian370z View Post
The dealer just called back and said my car is throwing error code U1000 which gives them no information on the cause, plus a bunch of other codes. Has anyone had this happen before? I wonder if this is one of those random electronic freakouts that happen to some members, but never happen again. Their GTR tech doesn't even know what that code means. Weird.

Sux Christian, had this random electrical freakout before, it did not die like yours but did idle high and ran rough, threw several codes, cannot remember which ones. Its posted on the forum here somewhere. Turned out one of the many grounds was shorted or in a better word rusted. Just my 2 cents, glad it's under warranty and the dealer will probably call tech support at NNA for solutions. g/l on fix.
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by whoady4shoady View Post
Holy shat! At least they have their GTR tech on it.
Well that was a good thing for me until the dealer told me he didn't know what that code was at all... Then they said it was a PCM issue and that my GTR start button could be causing problems. LOL.

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Originally Posted by gy954 View Post
...at least the car is misbehaving for them, so they have something to work with. Please let us know what turns up!
It's always good it's still having the problem! Seems like it's a rule that when you have a problem, the problem never shows itself when you are trying to diagnose haha.

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Originally Posted by cdoxp800 View Post
Possible causes
- Controller Area Network (CAN) communication harness is open or shorted
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Funny the dealer has no clue.. LOL
I know right! It took me two seconds on google to figure that one out. Also, I found a ton of Nissan cars in the last ten years that have had recalls or TSBs out for that exact code.

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When was your last oil change?
50 miles ago at the same dealer.

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Originally Posted by DCNISMO View Post
Did water get into your engine bay recently?
Nope, water hasn't touched the engine bay in months.

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Originally Posted by ZForce View Post
Sux Christian, had this random electrical freakout before, it did not die like yours but did idle high and ran rough, threw several codes, cannot remember which ones. Its posted on the forum here somewhere. Turned out one of the many grounds was shorted or in a better word rusted. Just my 2 cents, glad it's under warranty and the dealer will probably call tech support at NNA for solutions. g/l on fix.
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:56 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Here is what nissan says it might be effecting the listed models according to a service bulletin, your dealer should teach their technicians how to use the internet.




OBDII Code U1000 NISSAN - CAN Communication Line - Signal Malfunction | Engine-Codes.com
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Old 07-22-2012, 04:01 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gsxr750 View Post
Here is what nissan says it might be effecting the listed models according to a service bulletin, your dealer should teach their technicians how to use the internet.




OBDII Code U1000 NISSAN - CAN Communication Line - Signal Malfunction | Engine-Codes.com
Haha, yep! If you read the comments on that link or other TSB sites, most people say stuff like "after I had my oil change" or "after I had my battery replaced". Ever since I had my oil changed, I had a clutch issue and now the car died on the freeway. I've never had a problem before then.
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Old 07-22-2012, 04:21 PM   #23 (permalink)
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So weird, your Z is babied too

Best of luck with the fix
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Old 07-22-2012, 04:27 PM   #24 (permalink)
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How many miles are on it ?
Is it an automatic or manual ?

I had a similar problem on an old 87 vette with a standard, no error codes.

The car only had 30k on it and I had it about 2 months and just going thru the gears entering the thruway and once I hit about 70mph I heard a thump and the car was still runnig but lost all driveline power.

The car would start and shift thru the gears and the clutch even moved back and fourth properly.

Turned out the clutch plate disintergrated itself and upon disassembly only the center splined metal hub was left.

Note if its a clutch problem its about $750-$1000k in labor plus parts.
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Old 07-22-2012, 04:55 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Waizzz View Post
So weird, your Z is babied too

Best of luck with the fix
Thanks Wais, I definitely take the best care of the Z as I can. I hope to make it out to Cerritos one of these days!

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Originally Posted by gsxr750 View Post
How many miles are on it ?
Is it an automatic or manual ?

I had a similar problem on an old 87 vette with a standard, no error codes.

The car only had 30k on it and I had it about 2 months and just going thru the gears entering the thruway and once I hit about 70mph I heard a thump and the car was still runnig but lost all driveline power.

The car would start and shift thru the gears and the clutch even moved back and fourth properly.

Turned out the clutch plate disintergrated itself and upon disassembly only the center splined metal hub was left.

Note if its a clutch problem its about $750-$1000k in labor plus parts.
I had 9,444 miles on it when I dropped it off at the dealer yesterday, the clutch was fine but I think it was a definitely electrical issue. I think I will ask them to clear the codes and see if it comes back.

That would be intense to have your clutch blow like that! Good thing nothing else was damaged when the clutch plate disintegrated.
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:19 PM   #26 (permalink)
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You should get yourself one of the cheap scanners that reset and read the program codes yourself from harbor freight for around $5O and they have a 20% off coupon in most cycle magazines, this would allow you to clear the codes and reset the computer if you get stuck again, its a lot cheaper than a tow truck and cab fare back home
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:49 PM   #27 (permalink)
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You should get yourself one of the cheap scanners that reset and read the program codes yourself from harbor freight for around $5O and they have a 20% off coupon in most cycle magazines, this would allow you to clear the codes and reset the computer if you get stuck again, its a lot cheaper than a tow truck and cab fare back home
True, but what do you tell the dealer after you have cleared the only evidence of the problem?

If they don''t like the GTR start button (!) they really aren't going to like you playing with the computer! Can you say "voided warranty"?
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:56 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I used to have an OBD2 scanner but sold it after I got rid of my last car, that's a good idea! They know about my mods, and know how well I take care of my car which is why they said it would be warrantied. I laughed so hard when they blamed the start button, I told them it is identical to the stock button minus the red and the 370Z start button is used in the Altima too.
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:02 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Trying to clear the engine codes is not going to void a waranty, you can simply write down the codes, clear them, if there is a damaged or faulty part the error code will resurface on their own.

Then you can take it in for waranty repair, if the problem persists.
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:13 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Thing is it's already at Nissan, they read the codes. :/
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