As others stated, impact wrench... or you could try a breaker bar but you won't have much room in a driveway or garage.

All else fails take it to a shop... should take them 15 minutes to do the entire install.

Second on the take it to a shop recommendation. In my quest to own a Z, I am trying to sell my Eclipse, which needed to go back stock. The CBE had been on it almost a decade, so no way I was going to attempt that in my driveway. Worth every penny of the $50 a local shop charged to put the stock exhaust back on for me.

If I correctly added up the times you listed in the OP, you waited a total of 25 minutes or so for the PB to work. Try liberally spraying on the PB and let it soak in overnight. If that doesn't work, then move on to the more drastic measures that others have listed.

Oh, and you could always try driving the car to a local mechanic or muffler shop and have them crack the bolts for you with their air tools...

Good luck!

Whoa!

Good to see all the response from the community. I was expecting a few posts, but not this many. Maybe I'll have enough rep...

Well, the PB Blaster and ATF/Acetone mixture has been soaking for over 20 hours now, so maybe I can get it to crack tonight. Otherwise, I will look up getting a torch. I've already tried everything besides an impact tool, which included impact with my arm using a socket driver, rubber mallet with a closed head wrench, an 18" breaker bar, an 18" breaker bar with another foot long cheater bar, small ball peen hammer to tap at the bolt, and steady torque.

I have been weary to try anything since I have almost stripped one bolt. It isn't too bad but it's starting to round a bit. I've since used only a six point socket.

It has been quite a while since the PB Blaster and ATF/Acetone was applied, so on the drive back, I guess I will attempt to heat the car as much as possible. I will get myself a torch just in case it comes to that.

I could try my butane cigar lighter torch... I've used it to spark bricks before (on top of actually lighting a cigar).

You could also try a heat gun, I bought mine from Harbor Freight for about $15, and it heats up to 1500 degrees. Keep that on there for a few minutes and it might help you out. Otherwise everyone else's advice has been spot on.

The ultimate result:

I bought a torch and a tube of MAP/PRO fuel from Lowe's. Heated each nut and bolt repeatedly until they glowed red hot... repeated several cycles, then attached a wrench and hammered the wrench.

It took two hours to remove all the bolts but I was able to knock them all off, leaving me with a couple of blood blisters and a new axleback that sounds phenomenal. All said and done, three hours on the dot.

I am now convinced that when available, torch + hammer + wrench = results.

Heat it and beat it has never failed for my built wrangler 's' box. Northeast winters, salt and mud are a modders worst nightmare. Glad to hear slow and steady won the race.

If you use QUALITY tools you should only have to use a breaker bar with a pipe slid over it for the extra torque. Use a 6 point socket such as an impact socket. Make sure the socket is square on the bolt.

This is what I use

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...0233638893.jpg

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...0233611976.jpg

This is what I used for under $30 since you feel you have started to round off heads. These will work better than any 6pt socket. GRIP TITE socket set

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1339866954

I might as well revive this because only recently, my friend rounded off some head studs in his LGT motor. Being head studs, they're 12 point. Any recommendations? Since they are head studs, impact or lubrication won't matter much, just pure torque and actual grip on the head of the bolt.

ive not seen a 12 point... maybe something like this might work instead?

Craftsman Bolt-Out Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set Reviews - Craftsman Community